NorCalQ

[NorCalQ]

Marc, on this strop I used WE l micron emulsion, so I don’t think it was the culprit.  At some point, I must have gotten sloppy.  The GJ is working fine so far.

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Marc H

[NorCalQ]

A fine eye dropper is a great idea!

[NorCalQ]

Got it thru another forum.  It’s Nanolap.

[NorCalQ]

Others with more experience will chime in.  Tough question.  Kinda depends on how dull the blade is.  I can say the number for me has been closer to 100 strokes, but it’s really about when the burr is formed.

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Marc H

[NorCalQ]

Using a scope really helped me to be able to see the leftover black on the edge, that was not visible to the eye.  Of course, it also helps me to see that I’ve gotten rid of all prior grit scratch marks.  Good luck.

[NorCalQ]

I’m sure others will chime in who have more experience than I do.  I found that I have greater control and consistency of bevel when I use alternating strokes from beginning to end.  I use the sharpie between grits and make sure that all of the black is gone, right up to the edge.  I use my magnifier to make sure.  I don’t worry about getting a burr.  If I’m really changing the angle, then I’ll scrub only to establish the new angle with a coarse grit.  After that, it’s alternating strokes for the remainder of the grits.

[NorCalQ]

Welcome.  All of the above.  I’d like to add, if you really are new to sharpening knives, the you may or may not experience some frustration at first.  I’d say, work with what you have and learn your strokes and edges.  When you have the basics down, you can begin working toward that mirror polished edge, if you want.  If you’re looking for a great working edge, then you’ve got all it will take to achieve that, IMHO.  Good luck and learn your strokes.  Many here will guide you along your way.

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NotSharpEnuff, Brewbear, Marc H

[NorCalQ]

Thanks so much for posting this.  It’s way over my head, but I think I grasp your practical explanation of how you apply it all to your mounting methodology.  I’m going to reread your post and see if I can get it all to work for me.  Thanks again.

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wickededge

[NorCalQ]

Others with more knowledge will chime in I’m sure.  I had an older 1500 and the new 2200/3000 stones.  Because of the polish I was getting from my 1500 stones, I decided to get the new 1500/2200 stones so that I could do 1500>2200>3000, all new.  Turns out, I didn’t have to do that.

The old 1500 stones were giving me a slight polish, because they were worn, however the scratches were the same size as the new 1500 stones, although the new scratches appeared to be much higher in density.  Better way to put it might be, there were more scratches per inch with the new, than with the old.  The scratches fall right in line with the new 2200/3K stones.  Although I could have continued using my older 1500s, I decided to use the new 1500s, just to keep that 1500>2200>3K progression consistent to my eye.  Suffice to say, I love the new stones and now, couldn’t do without them.  Hope this helps.

[NorCalQ]

Thanks for the response Clay.  Guess I’ll keep using my own AAG and adjust position, rather than try to adjust grinding, to form the bevel I want.  I may experiment with it and see how a difference it makes.

[NorCalQ]

Yes.  That’s why I started using the tang for zero.  Of course, the difference varies a bit depending on how and where the blade is clamped.  The one I’m working on now only shows a difference of .2 degrees, however I have seen up to 1 degree so far.  Not much, but using the tang does give me a level of confidence in a more accurate angle setting comparator.  All that said, I just started doing this, so I may find larger discrepancies in the future, depending on the main bevel of the blade.  I was just worried that I was doing something that made sense to me, but was not actually good practice.

[NorCalQ]

That article is way over my head.  What it interesting is that while I was taking my strokes with the coarser grits, I could really feel the toughness of this steel.  It felt like no other blade I’ve ever sharpened.  It felt like my diamond stones were just gliding across the surface, rather than biting in.  Again, I’ve sharpened several other 440C blades from this same maker, but never had that sensation. A bad batch of 440C?  Hmmm…I have no idea.  I’m glad to hear I’m not the only one to experience occasional difficulty with a particular blade.

[NorCalQ]

I generally use card stock, which is paper as thick as a greeting card, to protect the blade.  If the blade pivots on the rear, then I add a piece of card stock to both sides of the front of the mount.  One layer usually does the trick.  I’m sure others here have more elegant solutions as well.

 

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GJHM28, wickededge, Thomas

[NorCalQ]

Yes, it did appear on the other side of the bevel as well.  I think I may have solved the issue for now.  I ground a new bevel using the Tormek, although it took a few tries to get past the aberration. I’ll sharpen on WE and see what happens. So weird.

[NorCalQ]

No.  I cleaned the knife with denatured alcohol prior to sharpening.  Went thru all the grits and a couple of strops.  It couldn’t be adhesive residue.

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Mr.Wizard

[Author]

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