Baxsin

Roy, the inscribed angle demarcations on the WE GO are just suggested indicators.  If you want true angle settings, use you properly zeroed Angle cube.  Loosen the guide rods locks and slide them in and out to get as close as you can to get to hitting your angles with the cube.

The WE GO is a simple basic equipped sharpener. It is not equipped t…[Read more]

5/3 then 1/0.5 should be good with good pressure and technique.  Realize, mirror finish is a process from the get go.  Each grit has to be used in succession to the optimal results with attention to detail.  Strops will not remove deep scratch remnants from previous grits.

All knives that are ground like a triangle that slope in to the tip from the spine up will cant or lean left in the Standard Vises.  Only a knife ground with parallel/vertical sides above the spine or a parallel vertical patch in the center of the knife’s sides, (like a double edged knife) where its is positioned and clamped in the vise, will not…[Read more]

Richard,  4µ / 2µ is where I’d start.  If you don’t know, it’s recommended that you reset the sharpening angle to 1.5º to 2.0º lower angle, for stropping.

For example if you sharpened at 20º, strop at 18 or 18.5º.  Also stropping is done with more applied pressure then the light sharpening pressure.

Richard, when using the strops it’s always an upward and off direction for your stropping strokes.  I suggest you do not attempt anything but the shortest knives in one long stroke. Especially if the knife shape curves down to the tip. If you try to do this as one long stropping stroke you can easily gouge and slice the leather.  It’s better to…[Read more]

https://wickededgeusa.com/products/replacement-leather-strip

They use hot glue to mount it to the plastic paddles.  The old gouged leathers will peal off easily enough and the glue residue can be scraped off.

Richard it won’t hurt to use the sliced strop.  I suggest to keep using it for now as you acquire the proper technique.  Then after you ge…[Read more]

I guess they finally acquiesced to the demand for this part.  I’m glad to hear this rummels.  Can you describe which 1″ riser they provided?  Also, which model W.E. sharpener did you install the riser block on?

Craig I’d also like to share a helpful suggest often made by my W.E. Forum buddy, Organic, to read the “Knowledge Base”.  There are numerous helpful articles for the beginner to be found there.  

Here’s another good one.

The WE100 uses the Standard Vise.  It is comprised of two triangles.  The left side triangle is fixed and stationary while the right side triangle floats and is connected with a horizontal screw to the left side.  Most knives are shaped like a tall narrow triangle.  When the knife is clamped in the standard vice, with the blade up, the knife sid…[Read more]

Welcome to the forum Craig.  Please share with us which model W. E. Sharpener you are using.

The situation you are describing sounds like the blade lean seen with the “Standard Vises”.

Richard, a 10º per side, bevel angel is very, very thin, even for the finest most expensive knives, forged from the finest, best steels. In my experience it is used very seldom.  The bevel recommendations made by many manufacturers don’t correspond with the real, actual bevel angle the knives were ground with, at the factory.  As airscapes sa…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum Robert.  I hope you are recovering well. If you wish to “come aboard”, lose the shoes…we just swabbed the decks!

Chuck, sorry for your confusion.  Thank you for trying to post your question properly by subject matter.  If you want to post your questions in the appropriate Forum Category a good place for you to start is:

Forum > Main Forum > Techniques and Sharpening Strategies > Basic Techniques and Sharpening Strategies > scroll down to the bottom of the p…[Read more]

Tony, altering your paddles as you suggest is one method.  I don’t like that it limits the effectiveness of a safety feature.

The other method is to add a sharpening notch or sharpening choil to those knives that require it.  Then your stones will work just as they were designed.

Here are several YouTube Videos on the subject you may want to v…[Read more]

Gene, I’d suggest you just make the best of it.  A little bit lasts a really long time.  When you look to replace it, you might want to give the diamond emulsion sprays a try.  It’s a smoother feeling product to me.  Even though these sprays come with their own set of clogged sprayer difficulties.

Good luck and welcome.

Welcome to the Forum Gene.  The stropping paste compounds in the syringes really don’t leak or even come out of the tip without squeezing the syringe plungers down.  The pastes are pretty thick.  I wouldn’t think even with the cap off that the pastes would dry out without first drawing air up into the syringes by pulling the syringe plunger ou…[Read more]

Roy if this is the first time your Para 3 is being sharpened to 19.5º bevel angle with the angle precision offered with Wicked Edge sharpeners, you are in essence profiling that bevel.  This profiling usually requires more effort the first time sharpening  a knife with the W.E. and may require that you start at a lower grit for less effort. As To…[Read more]

Welcome to the Forum Roy,  You did not specify which model you received. The W.E diamond stone do need to break in before you’ll see truly decent results.  This can be as many as 8 or 10 knives worth of sharpening.  There is a distinct learning curve with the W. E.  Almost everyone of us came to W.E. from some other knife sharpening exp…[Read more]

Welcome to the Forum Gene.

Yes the Ceramic Stones will work better when broken-in.  Sorry to say, the break in period is longer for the ceramic stones  then for the diamond stones

Just so you know, some of the grits and sharpening mediums are used, “either/or”.  The sharpening stones are not intended to all work together in one long sharpening progression inclusive of every stone and grit.  Like Organic explained above…one or the other.