Toxophilus
@toxophilus
active 8 months agoForum Replies Created
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Sent you a pm; plus here’s the link to tcmeyer’s post regarding correcting for blade lean (which my Gen 3 still has…) https://knife.wickededgeusa.com/forums/topic/mounting-ffg-blades-in-a-we120-gen-1-vise/
I find for distal tapered blades like my Spydercos, I actually upgraded to the Gen 3 vice/jaws which really help out with holding those types of blades secure. The Gen 3 vice has a tension lever so if you’re working with thinner stock you can adjust easily.
Upgrading to me was worth it.
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I figure since most of us might be in the same boat (shelter in place), the below might help you or someone else out; regardless it works for me…
One of the challenges I had to learn whether using an earlier style gen clamp or the 3rd gen clamp that I’m using now, is finding the true center of the blade edge in relation to how the clamp grabs the blade.
I favor Spyderco knives with a full flat grind though I found that even though I thought I had them clamped pretty straight the angle cube typically showed a lower angle on the left side of the WE vs the right side.
Below is the method I use (got it from gleaning other’s posts); I’m no mathematician but this forced me to learn…
I use the AAG to record my settings as well as post them into the WE knife settings database.
Yesterday I sharpened my Spyderco Para 3, here’s how I did it to keep the bevels even:
I typically match the pre-existing grind angle on the LEFT side of the WE, in my case the angle was close to 18°; I then placed the RIGHT side of the WE at 18° as well for a starting point.
Using my angel cube (TIP; only use one platen to take your initial Left/Right measurements) the Left side measured 17.70°; the Right side measured 18.43°
Next I take a 1.5″ wide putty knife and butt the Angle cube up against it, I rest the putty knife & angle cube next to the blade on both Left & Right side and record the readings.
Think of the Left side of the WE as your Positive side and the Right side as the Negative side (that’s how I remember it in my mind).
On the Left I got a reading of 1.74° (pos); on the Right I got a reading of 2.81° (neg); Add the positive reading with the negative reading and I get 1.07°; next I divide this by 2 = .53°I add .53 to the initial Left positive side reading 17.70 = 18.23°
I subtract .53 from the initial Right negative side reading 18.43 = 17.90°
I add these together 18.23 + 17.90= 36.13 inclusive; divide this by two = 18.06° DPS
If you really want to get it to 18° per side for that particular knife grind, then subtract the .06 from both the Left/Right i.e.
Left = 18.17°
Right = 17.84
Added up = 36.01° divided by 2 I end up with 18.005° DPSMy settings for sharpening this particular blade will be:
WE Left setting; 18.17°
WE Right setting; 17.84°NOTES:
- My rod holders have an adjustment nut so I can dial them in precisely
- I do this each time I sharpen a knife, even if it’s the same one; it clamps up differently each time
As I’ve written earlier I do this so I can figure out what angles my platens should be set at so I can get even bevels on my folders, even though the Gen 3 is made to hold distally tapered blades better, they don’t eliminate blade lean which can produce one bevel wider than the other.
It sounds like you’ll be re-profiling one side of the blade more than the other; as you look down on the apex of the blade you should be able to see at the tip which side will need more grinding to get you to where you want to be I hold a white business card below the tip so I can see which side needs it; it may take a few sharpenings.
Attached image is an example of how I measure blade lean with the putty knife, any flat piece of metal will do as long as it has an even thickness (example of what I refer to as the positive side measurement).
thx, RSilva
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Sure, you can always right click on the link and ask for it to be opened up in a new tab/window; but why? We build/manage our work web sites with the code so the users don’t have to… plus we don’t always know which browser/iphone/android the users have etc.
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I really liked the idea of the RC axel dust covers, I decided to use the entire cover by using a leather punch tool and punching out a cloverleaf pattern on the bottom section of the boot (stiffer section). It fit over the nut just fine and keeps that area clean; I also took the initial punched cut out and used it within the locking screw housing to help protect the threads a bit.
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The below are approximates:
Length = 14 1/4″
Width = 12 1/4″ (due to the hard molded handle)
Depth = 3 “
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I seem to recall that when using the strops (depending on the thickness of the strops) using them may cause a steeper angle? You may want to try using a bit of sharpie on the blade and strop that section to determine what kind of contact you’re getting on the blade.
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