Readheads
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active 1 year, 3 months agoForum Replies Created
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<!–more–>I filed down one side of the LAA and now I can get to 9 deg single side.
A few questions if I may:
- What is the 90-90-90 rule ?
- What is the autosol step ?
- In the three-step approach, “1 degree more obtuse” would start a micro bevel I think yet I suppose this is to address the burr root ?
- In the three-step approach, “0.1 micron … at the original sharpening angle” is quite a jump from 1.5 micron ?
- Also, I wonder if this is all necessary because after raising (edge-trailing) the hanging burr at 100, 200 diamond grit; then all the rest of the diamond grits I do edge-leading through 1000, 1500, 2200, 3000. Then edge-trailing with 3 grits of diamond film and finally 2 leather strops each with finer poly diamonds. It would seem to me that the burr root should be addressed by this but maybe not. I guess the proof would be in controlled BESS testing (maybe I will get one).
I am mostly interested in the concept of extending the longevity of a very sharp edge. I also wonder how the Tormek wheel geometry compares to the flat WEPS paddles in his approach. I need to read Verhoeven’s Experiments in Knife Sharpening again.
Very interesting on the scalpel. It serves to substantiate that their may be cut mediums and techniques that could benefit from it. My thoughts are all raw meats and maybe the steak knife edge for longevity purposes.
I have some cheap non-serrated steak knives and I will try it. Thinking of trying diamond films on one side and the super coarse 50 grit on the other. What do you think about the angles per side and which side to do first ?
Have you figured out an effective way to handle serrated knives ? The best I came up with is to focus on putting new tips on each serration (using full blade strokes) and not to worry about the “inner” serration curvatures. Its not perfect but it refreshes the initial bite that a serrated knife has.
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I don’t bother with checking for a burr after the first diamond paddle. I also don’t bother checking/tweaking the angle for each paddle change. I do check my results in process with my USB scope. It’s a big time saver. Tuning up a knife which was previously in the WEPS with the Angle Alignment Gauge takes less than 5 minutes. A new knife will get the 50/80 grit for less than 5 minutes to establish a new profile and full burr. Another 5 minutes and I am done stropping. I tape every knife to protect against rogue and annoying scratches to the face. I do mostly kitchen knives. Goods steels get 14 DPS, Decent steels get 17 DPS or 20 DPS is hard usage is in play. To me it all about the steel quality and projected use.
I do like to do science projects to approach the perfect edge though.
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This reply was modified 3 years, 11 months ago by
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This reply was modified 3 years, 11 months ago by
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I went with the 1500/glass paddle. After the 800/1000 it does a great finishing job. You can put the coarsest diamond film on the glass. Also, sharpening down to 9 dps while extremely sharp leaves a lot to be desired for edge durability.
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This is a repeat of the post that I put in the second thread that was started on this:
I think that the root cause of your issue is that the current jaws no longer have the square flats on them (see pic). I have the Field version from ~5 years ago. I setup my kitchen knife to check for wiggle and there is none either with my chamois insert or without it. I use the chamois to protect the knife surface from nasty little marks due to clamping. I also designed a simple fixture to handle flexible knives and low angles – cost = $5. No wiggle there either.
