Lukas Pop

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KnifeKnerdAtX, Great analysis!

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wickededge

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Hi, creating microbevel should help.

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Fatigue depends on whether I do reprofiling or touch ups and whether I do more knives in a row. Some people here do sharpening as a business, theirs experiences with fafigue are welcomed.

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Good points here. I agree that touch ups are quicker with microbevel. On my japanese kitchen knives, I put 10 dps secondary bevel with 15 dps microbevel on WEPS, then do touch ups with a few passes on Spyderco Sharpmarker ultra fine stones. CliffStamp, how do you produce 5 dps angle on your knives?

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Thank you for your answers. I remove bigger chips ASAP. But sometimes I get small chip, observable only by microscope or by cutting paper, but I don’t see some perceivable deterioration of cutting abilities. So I am not decided if removing the chip is worth the work and removal of metal. I think in case of kitchen knives, their cutting abilities deteriorate with removal of metal, because they become thicker behind the edge.

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I’ve always believed that very hard steels are more brittle and should therefor not be brought to a very acute angle.

Harder steels can take and hold more acute angle in general. Chipping resistance is inversely correlated with hardness, but high-end steels like zdp189 should excel in both areas, good heat treatment provided. More on this http://zknives.com/knives/articles/knifesteelfaq.shtml and http://www.crucible.com/pdfs/SelectorKnifePocketRotatedCrucibleLLC.pdf . But personally I don’t put acute angle on knife for heavy tasks, regardless of the steel.

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Hi PST, WE is great for japanese kitchen knives. I sharpen 24 cm gyuto with no problem, 27 cm sujihiki I sharpen in sections due to blade flexibility. The low angle adapter is great for thinning the back bevels. I think pro pack II with low angle adapter will be perfect, but it is way more than £300.

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Do you think something like this? http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Faber-Castell_pencil_and_eraser.jpg I think that super eraser is from fibrous material, not rubber. I will try pumice stone from drugstore.

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Hi Mark, do you know something similar to Wicked Edge super eraser which is possible to get in Europe?

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Hi Steve,
it is important to write down your settings (bevel angles and position of the knife in jaws). I basically do final stages of sharpening progression. How many, it depends on how much worn is your edge, you gain experiences by trials and errors. In some cases, stropping is enough.
Cheers
Lukas

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They seem even coarser than 1000 diamonds, but my 1000 are well broken in, my 3 um aren’t.

If this is the case, we should ask some questions. But I’ve seen similar questions in the past and their answers were all understandable. Please first make sure your stones are well broken in. Otherwise all comparisons are based on quicksand (Dutch expression, is there a similar expression in English?). Then we should make comparisons, preferably based on published micro-photographs of the scratch patterns. (I understand not everyone has a microscope to do so, but there are people here who can do this.)[/quote]

I think that breaking in is a continous process in case of diamond stones. I made some micro-photographs of 1000 diamonds, 3 um diamons, 1200, 1600, 1.4 and 0.6 ceramics (about 220x). DMT and WEPS patterns looks little different and is difficult to say which one is coarser.

Very interesting are the ceramics. 1200 and 1600 look quite similar to each other, but 1.4 look absolutely different. 0.6 look very smooth, but absolutely different than 1.4. So it doesn’t make sense to me to compare grits between ceramics and diamond stones and between different types of ceramic stones.

1000 diamonds

3 micron DMT diamonds

1200 ceramics

1600 ceramics

1.4 micron ceramics

0.6 micron ceramics

Attachments:

• 1000_1m.jpg
• dmt_1.jpg
• 1200_1.jpg
• 1600_1.jpg
• 14_1.jpg
• 06_1.jpg

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I’ve started using the following progression: diamond stones, ceramic stones, lapping films, then strops. As I get more experience I may understand this concept better.

I use the same progression. I haven’t any water stones, but I think in this progression, they would be an alternative for ceramics. 3 um diamonds are definitely coarser then all WEPS ceramics. They seem even coarser than 1000 diamonds, but my 1000 are well broken in, my 3 um aren’t.

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Hi flugzeit, tcmeyer and mark76 made some good points. I recommend buying something like this http://www.dx.com/p/illuminated-pocket-60x-to-100x-zoom-microscope-1328#.U66UOfl_s2Y and check the edge after every set of stones. You will see what happens during sharpening.

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Looks very interesting. What is recommended place of lapping films in sharpening progression? Between stones and strops or instead of strops?

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I tried sharpen my axe and was quite successful. I removed one jaw and use 3 simple accessories:

1. books to support the haft
2. wooden wedge
3. the clamp

It should be obvious from the images. I set angles 32 and 13, which creates 24 degrees angle per side on the axe. It takes some time to find the best position for the axe – to hold firm and nothing impedes.And it takes quite a time, because the edge was more damaged than in case of typical knife.

Attachments:

• IMG_20140608_175128_maly.jpg
• IMG_20140608_175259_maly.jpg

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sksharp

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