Richard

[Richard]

So the 9.5-13 dps is a range at which the knife might be sharpened to? That’s crazy. LOL

[Richard]

I wanted to agree with you about the 20 dps bevel. Unless otherwise specified by a customer, I do mine all at 20 with the exception on my Sandoku which is 10. I bought a Spyderco Gauntlet which includes a ceramic stick system fixed at 20 dps and my idea really words great. I sharpened all my kitchen knives at 20 and stopped at 1000 grit during Spring 2021. I keep the Gauntlet in the kitchen and have been honing the knives usually every weekend with really great results. So recently, I began noticing a slight degradation when cutting a tomato regardless of how many times I ran them across the sticks. Bare in mind, it’s been 18 months since I sharpened them on the WE. Took them to the bench and wow! They were in fantastic shape, clean, even diagonal scratches from one end to the other. When I rigged everything back up and made a couple of 20 degree scrubs, I created a little micro bevel on the blade apex the entire length of the knife making me think that I wasn’t holding it exactly perpendicular to the countertop when honing it on the sticks. Dropped down to 100 grit stones and progressed back through all the way to 1000 and I’m good for another 18 months. Y’all give it a try, keeps them nice and sharp without the WE, inclinometer, microscope, etc.

[Richard]

Two questions. I’m looking to take on a Miyabi Kaizen II Chef’s Knife and the specs say the blade angle is 9.5-13 dps. What does that actually mean? Is that a convex bevel where it’s 13 degrees at the apex and then it gradually rolls inward resulting in 9.5 at the bottom of the bevel? The other questions is that I cannot create any less than a 10 degree angle using my Gen 3 Pro and a LAA. Any thoughts on possible getting 1 more dps?

[Richard]

I forgot you were in the Tampa area, hope you weren’t affected too much.

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Marc H

[Richard]

Ok, got mine yesterday and it makes sense now. So it works the same way as others where the USB cable connects to the desktop or laptop computer and then you use a viewer like Plugable Digital Viewer (www.plugable.com) to display the images.

Now on your phone, the instructions have a QR code for the website where you can find the ‘WiFi Check’ app or you can go to http://www.ninyoon.com/art/4k to download it. Install it on your phone and disconnect the USB cable. Open up your ‘Settings’ folder (I have an iPhone) and take note of what’s in your ‘My Networks’ sub-folder. Turn on your microscope and it will generate a WiFi signal and appear in your ‘My Networks’, mine is named ‘HD-Microscope-b7a8’. Tap that network and after a second or two, you’ll see your home network swap roles with the microscope and become your connected network located in your ‘Wi-Fi’ subfolder. Open up the ‘WiFi Check’ app on your phone, answer any questions if it asks (mine didn’t) and view the images.

Now this procedure does disable any connection your phone has had with devices on your LAN and the Internet but it does alleviate the need to yank your MacBook out of your wive’s lap and hide away with it for a couple of hours like I do on a regular basis. Good luck!

[Richard]

But in the specification, I also see

WiFi Implementation Standard 2.4 Ghz (EEE 802.11 b/g/n)

which makes me think it contains the components necessary to connect to a network, otherwise, it wouldn’t be mentioned. I ordered one so I’ll be able to confirm in a couple of days.

[Richard]

Thanks for the great find TC. What makes you think that the network isn’t recognizing it? Can you manage your router or does your ISP have control of it? If you do, I can walk you through getting it on your network. In the meantime, find your new device’s MAC address. It’s a hexadecimal set of numbers and looks something like this: 00:00:5e:00:53:af. Every device that’s capable of connecting to a network has one so dig around and find it, we’ll need it if your router’s not picking it up and placing it in its DHCP table.

[Richard]

Victorinox are very popular in the restaurant business. Watch some of the ‘Bearded Butchers’ videos, they sharpen them thousands of times to the point where they’re down to like a 6″ blade before tossing them.

[Richard]

Sounds like you’re getting the hang of it, congrats!

[Richard]

I don’t go higher than 1600 because mostly I’m doing kitchen knives but I scrub for a burr on every single stone and then stroke until all the vertical scratches are gone. Here lately, I’ve been stopping at 1000 and even there, I can slice phonebook paper every time. You have to apex the edge all the way through the routine and not stop at 600.

[Richard]

Hey Bryce, sounds like you’re kind of new to sharpening. I would strongly suggest you break in your stones by going through at least ten junk knives before getting into your wife’s assortment. And don’t stop there, spend a lot of time honing your own skills before getting into the expensive ones because any damage is pretty much irreversible forcing you to remove product to cover up your mistakes. Just my two cents.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Bryce Herbst

[Richard]

Welcome to the forum WN! You’ll learn a lot here so check-in often.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Wicked Now.

[Richard]

Welcome to the forum Anomad! Lots of knife wisdom here. Takes awhile to develop your own technique so just keep at it and try new methods.

[Richard]

All I can say is it takes time and a lot of practice to develop your own personal skillset. I do things that I’ve discovered assist me in obtaining a final objective that aren’t even mentioned on this forum but it works me so be patient and be careful.

[Richard]

I bought one and have used it several times, especially on smaller pocket knives and an occasional paring knife. The blade heighth on these particular examples don’t lend enough clearance for the stone to clear the vice even with using the Low Angle Adapter (LAA). It does the trick, there are some good YouTube videos on how to properly use it as well, however, it does have one drawback IMO. The rubber strap used to tighten down on the handle leaves plenty of room for angle variation, i.e., when you crank down the the adjustment screw to tighten the band, the more it wants to roll which varies the angle of the blade. So the result is spending quite a bit of time adjusting and readjusting the rubber strap until you gain the angle you want. The videos I’ve seen show that you just place the bar on the table at the same time you’re clamping the knife in place and it should line up perfectly but I haven’t experienced that using my angle guide.

[Author]

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