Ziggy

[Ziggy]

On the felt blocks, last batch was quite softer then the set before.
That said … I was not happy.
But, it gave me an interesting progression.

In the rough stages, soft wood.
At around A35 to leather with boron, the older harder felt.
Then last very light passes on leather and various compounds, the softer felt blocks.

It makes a difference.
The softer felt, you can feel how smooth the slide is, as well as any hangups. Any bit of burr seems to catch on that softer felt with a very light touch. I guess kinds like catching a burr with a q-tip.
If the light last pass is not perfect, a light 1 or 2 across the leather seems to take care of it, so till it glides … rinse and repeat.

Now, to find the harder felt again as I’m just about out ….

[Ziggy]

Killer job Cliff!

Came back as good as it can given the pitting and age.
Nice detail work.

[Ziggy]

My 2 cents.
Figure out the grit on your steel … lets say its 600.
Someone point out if I’m wrong, but wouldn’t taking say a 2k edge to a 600 steel give it more tooth .. or if you look at it another way, downgrade it.

Takes the edge to the lowest common denominator.

Now that might be great for cutting up a pork butt with tendons, but not for other things.

I’m a huge fan of the 1200 grit Idahone.
As a bonus, you now have 2 grades of steel/ceramic that you can use and choose for the job.

The Idahone is harder than the metal, takes a nice lite touch, and, as a bonus, when you get used to it, you can actually hear when you are on the edge, the apex, or the high line.
I kid you not.

Plus, do you really want to take your paper thin slicer to a 400 – 600 grit steel?

Any thoughts?

And at $32? for a 12″, a bargain.
Just don’t drop it!
😉

[Ziggy]

Does this still work, guys? I’ve told them twice already where I live, but the site doesn’t seem to know me anymore.

mark, if you’re in the Netherlands, I don’t see you.
Only one there is Toomzz

[Ziggy]

Worked here.
But took 4 tries.

Great idea!

[Ziggy]

My opinion,
Final stages of burr.
After about 800, but many things can be used in place of cork.
But the objective is the same.

Myself, I don’t use cork, I like hard felt, but they are used after other honing methods.

Say you think the burr is gone on your last hone.
Pass it through a cork or similar lightly, push cut, rehone lightly, pull through cork or similar … push cut some magazine paper .. difference is apparent.

In the end product, you’re really playing with the apex IMHO.

For customers, then pass it on a fine ceramic for some bite.

All depends on what you are trying to achieve.
Just another way of skinning a cat I suppose.

[Ziggy]

looks good Steven! just make sure that you put it on a nice flat surface to make sure the blade makes full contact with the cutting board from tip to heel.

Thanks Josh!

Yeah, I’ve definitely been doing that… Heck, I’ve probably done it a dozen or so times now and I’ll probably do it again a dozen more! :blink: A wavy edge wouldn’t be cool… At all!!![/quote]

Will just add .. put a bright light behind it … you’d be surprised what the eye misses.
I’ve been using those clamp on leds from Lowes for a lot of stations.

These things:
led light

clamp em on WEPS, Wheels, Alongside belts, Buffers ….. angle it right and you easily see the burr on anything you’re working on.

[Ziggy]

Nice job!
I just sharpened that same knife for a chef!

[Ziggy]

Zig, when you are referring to your inside ride line, are you inferring that the ride line is actual bevelled as well. If so I was unaware of this
Steve

I missed this line.

The ride line is flat and polished, not beveled.
Best done on a Flat stone.

[Ziggy]

Zig, when you are referring to your inside ride line, are you inferring that the ride line is actual bevelled as well. If so I was unaware of this

I have always re-sharpened scissors so they are like a chisel, with a main cutting edge and smooth back face, but the jaws are still arched along there length, maybe that is the issue I have been having with hair dressing scissors

Steve

Look at the inside concave.
You’ll see a reverse J going from the screw/pivot to the tip at the other side of the convex.
The inside Rideline.

All other things be perfect, if this ride line is not perfect, the scissor fails and the scissor is naturally bent and meant to straighten on that line.

[Ziggy]

Scissor angles are so everywhere.

I’ve ground some at 35 degrees and others at almost 60 degrees,

For hair dressing, they have to be hair popping sharp, my wife was a hairdresser and her friends are hair dressers, the half position slice is the check for correct, if it’s wrong. it will almost feel like someone is doing little hair pulls whilst your hair is being cut. Horrible feeling

Steve

Steve,
Test on wet perm paper works.
You cut clean to the tip with zero tear or fold or hangup you’re in.
Single ply wet tissue paper works too.

[Ziggy]

I’ve been interested in sharpening scissors as well for local hairdressers. I imagine each brand will have a different factory angle, and I understand it’s a convex bevel but can anyone tell me what the apex angle would be roughly?

P. S. Welcome to the Forum 🙂

Majority of Convex seem to be 45 degrees … BEFORE another sharpener gets to them 🙂
I scratch test at 45 and adjust from there. Have found Convex as low as 25 and up to 60s, but 35 – 45 is the main range I come across on SHARPENED Convex salon shears.

The other thing you need to pay attention to is your inside ride line … all the difference between a cut or pinch/pull.

Also plenty of single bevel out there, angle varies, but they are as low as 10 degrees so there’s room for the WEPS in there. There’s a plastic tool out there for flats, a basic 2 piece hinged angle meter, you lay the blade flat, close the marked meter till no space is left at the apex, pretty accurate, scratch test from there.

Also … Welcome Aboard!

[Ziggy]

Congrats and welcome to the forum!

I’m not a chef or a cook, but I am a waiter at a high-end seafood joint called Perla’s here in Austin. Typically when I sharpen house knives for the kitchen staff I sharpen at 20dps amd stop at 1000 grit. Occasionally, I’ll polish with the 5um and 3um strops just to help minimize the burr as much as possible. When I sharpen the chef’s knives I always ask them if they have any preferences before I begin. From there I’ll go up in grit, micro bevel, convex, etc. depending on what they want.

+1

If we are talking about Henkels, Wusthofs and such, I stop around 1k, strop for polish.
Polish may push to 2k.
Then a few strokes on a 1200k ceramic hone just to put the bite back on the edge.

Works for me and my customers.

In the end, if you really think about it, what ever you do, ultimately will end up to be a compromise of what you give them and what they use to hone.

If you find out what hone they use, and what they use each knife for, its then a balancing act.
IMHO, and as a former chef, a chef should have a variety of hones, I’d say 3. Steel Rough, Steel Med, Ceramic Smooth.

At the very least, its an opportunity to sell a hone if you carry them.

[Ziggy]

Yeah what I think me and Ziggy are talking about more are images like Tom’s where it has been been bent back and forth so much it is so weak and falling or about to fall off that dragging it through wood helps remove it. But in situations like this image I don’t really see how it would help, this is where I am curious what Bluntcut’s method looks like under an SEM.

Most definitely used then things are bad , weak, or early staged.
Even then, you can see by eye where some sticks, some doesn’t.

For me, the real objective is when coarse grits no longer easily make a visible burr, that’s when I mention rock bottom.
MW, correct, from that stage on, its a different burr.
At that point, I’m then starting to smooth the edge out as well.

By the time I’m not using wood, I’m making a burr anywhere from 400 to 800, depending on metal quality.

For me, in later stages after wood, the burr is minimal and can be almost pushed off, that’s when I like the felt.
At the end, even felt and boron.

Its not unlike abused bread knives, when you can really see the bent metal in the scallops and popping on the backside.

Aggressive action at first, softening as you go on till the flakes stop forming in the scallops when you do the backside.
Its almost as if the scallop itself is one big burr until you get to solid metal, sometimes surprising on how long it takes to get there.

[Ziggy]

Reading more, it seems its basically a chisel.
Long acute slope, small obtuse cutting edge, flat bottom … like an Emerson blade.

I like the last link where he says to strop the bur off so you don’t raise the plane.
WEPS or Wheel or Platen/Belt, seems the concept is the same.

[Author]

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