What is a cork for?

[jimbo45]

Hi I’ve seen people referencing using a cork when sharpening and was wondering if someone could elaborate on this for me? If it helps then I’ll start doing. Thanks for your help.

[Mikedoh]

Pulling a blade through a cork is to help remove a burr.

[jimbo45]

Thanks I was wondering about that

[blacksheep25]

Is it to remove the burr, or to indicate that more work is needed because there is a burr?

[Elliott Brass]

I have always heard its to remove the burr. If there USA fine wire edge it basically tears it off. I could be wrong as I read it on a forum long ago and my memory sucks.

[Steven N. Bolin]

Is it to remove the burr, or to indicate that more work is needed because there is a burr?

I’d say people rely on cork more for removing rather than detecting a burr.

Imho when it comes time to use cork for deburring, the burr is way too small to detect at this point. However, I’ll admit I’ve never been the best at detecting a burr by feel, especially beyond the 1000 grit level.

I typically only use cork to deburr in between stropping on kitchen knives and still have mixed emotions about the method. I will say that it’s important to not only use the weight of the knife each time you pull it through, but to also keep in mind the number of times you pull it through. Don’t over it. I’ve dulled hair-popping edges at this point and still haven’t really figured out the perfect way to go about it…But it does work.

[Aaron kimpton]

Maybe we should clarify a few things.

Burr is the rounded over edger from one side or the other. Best removed by using same grit stone on the side you can feel the burr.

Foil edge is a thin strip of very flexible steel that folds and flops as you sharpen/hone down on the higher grits. It is not removed as you finish down. It tends to fold just enough to be out of the way.

A cork will do nothing for a burr.

A cork will often snap off a foil edge. Many times it does so unevenly, so it may require more than one gentle pass.

Typically you do this when running a single bevel or super low angles. It can also be used to remove the foil edge before doing a 2nd low angle micro bevel. I have used it once or twice on convex edges also. It’s benifit there is pretty limited though.

My 2 cents in a world of 20 dollar bills

[Leo Barr]

Minimal force running with the grain cheap pine is perfect little more than the weight of the blade is needed pass it between the grain on the edge of a bit of pine about three times (that normally enoughI think the pine works a little better than cork) be it a plank or a cutting board.

[Gib Curry]

Maybe we should clarify a few things.

Burr is the rounded over edger from one side or the other…………………………..

Foil edge is a thin strip of very flexible steel that folds and flops as you sharpen/hone down on the higher grits……………….

………………. the burr is way too small to detect at this point. However, I’ll admit I’ve never been the best at detecting a burr by feel, especially beyond the 1000 grit level.

I cannot physically detect the burr beyond 400/800. I depend on detecting it at 400 and count on good, balanced side-to-side sharpening to keep the edge of the edge.

Sometimes, the first time I test a knife using typing paper, I can easily slice through; sometimes even the weight of the blade will push cut. But, the second try, the knife can appear dull all along the edge or in certain spots.

I’ve come to assume, without verifying, that I’ve developed a foil edge (maybe burr isn’t the right word)

That’s when I pull the knife a couple of times through cork, thick leather or soft wood and then re-strop. Usually take care of it.

That’s how I use the cork….

~~~~
For Now,

Gib

Φ

"Everyday edge for the bevel headed"

"Things work out best for those who make the best out of the way things work out."

[jimbo45]

Thanks everyone I’ll give the cork a try next time I sharpen something

[Steven N. Bolin]

Minimal force running with the grain cheap pine is perfect little more than the weight of the blade is needed pass it between the grain on the edge of a bit of pine about three times (that normally enoughI think the pine works a little better than cork) be it a plank or a cutting board.

I need to venture out and give softer wood a try. I’d definitely love to see the results of using different materials for deburring. Maybe there’s already been a couple tests conducted we can check out? Possibly something with magnified images, or, better yet, highly zoomed in short clips of the edge actually being pulled through various materials showing EXACTLY what is happening and where!

Anyway, great to hear from you as always, Leo!

[Zamfir]

Maybe we should clarify a few things.

Burr is the rounded over edger from one side or the other. Best removed by using same grit stone on the side you can feel the burr.

Foil edge is a thin strip of very flexible steel that folds and flops as you sharpen/hone down on the higher grits. It is not removed as you finish down. It tends to fold just enough to be out of the way.

A cork will do nothing for a burr.

A cork will often snap off a foil edge. Many times it does so unevenly, so it may require more than one gentle pass.

Typically you do this when running a single bevel or super low angles. It can also be used to remove the foil edge before doing a 2nd low angle micro bevel. I have used it once or twice on convex edges also. It’s benifit there is pretty limited though.

My 2 cents in a world of 20 dollar bills

Very well said..Burr vs wire edge vs foil edge all this is confusing to people learning about sharpening. Thanks for stating this in this manner!

[Steven N. Bolin]

Maybe we should clarify a few things.

Very well said..Burr vs wire edge vs foil edge all this is confusing to people learning about sharpening. Thanks for stating this in this manner![/quote]

Indeed! I guess when it really all comes down to it, regardless of what to call it while transitioning from one abrasive to the next, WE WANT IT GONE! Sayonara.

@DSGROUSE. Thank you for clarifying, brother.

[jimbo45]

I think that might be pretty helpful if anyone has anything like that they could share.

Minimal force running with the grain cheap pine is perfect little more than the weight of the blade is needed pass it between the grain on the edge of a bit of pine about three times (that normally enoughI think the pine works a little better than cork) be it a plank or a cutting board.

I need to venture out and give softer wood a try. I’d definitely love to see the results of using different materials for deburring. Maybe there’s already been a couple tests conducted we can check out? Possibly something with magnified images, or, better yet, highly zoomed in short clips of the edge actually being pulled through various materials showing EXACTLY what is happening and where!

Anyway, great to hear from you as always, Leo![/quote]

[Ziggy]

My opinion,
Final stages of burr.
After about 800, but many things can be used in place of cork.
But the objective is the same.

Myself, I don’t use cork, I like hard felt, but they are used after other honing methods.

Say you think the burr is gone on your last hone.
Pass it through a cork or similar lightly, push cut, rehone lightly, pull through cork or similar … push cut some magazine paper .. difference is apparent.

In the end product, you’re really playing with the apex IMHO.

For customers, then pass it on a fine ceramic for some bite.

All depends on what you are trying to achieve.
Just another way of skinning a cat I suppose.

[Author]

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