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What In The World Should I Charge?!

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Viewing 15 posts - 31 through 45 (of 72 total)
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  • #24259
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    Proper job all looks good.

    I’m SUPER glad to hear you say that, Leo.

    Thank you!

    #24298
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    It took quite a bit of time and effort, but I’m glad to say the chip in my coworker’s Miyabi 6000 MCT has been removed. The last inch or so towards the heel needs some attention before moving forward. Other than that, I think I’m on the home stretch in terms of reprofiling.

    It obviously still needs to be drastically thinned out before it comes anywhere close to having the cutting ability it had prior to the chip.

    Anyway. Just wanted to update you guys. Please drop some of your much appreciated knowledge on me in the meantime!

    ~Steven

    #24300
    JS
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 109

    How long did it take you, and what was your method or process of removing the chip?

    #24302
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    looks good Steven! just make sure that you put it on a nice flat surface to make sure the blade makes full contact with the cutting board from tip to heel.

    #24303
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    looks good Steven! just make sure that you put it on a nice flat surface to make sure the blade makes full contact with the cutting board from tip to heel.

    Thanks Josh!

    Yeah, I’ve definitely been doing that… Heck, I’ve probably done it a dozen or so times now and I’ll probably do it again a dozen more! :blink: A wavy edge wouldn’t be cool… At all!!!

    #24304
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    outstanding!!

    #24305
    Ziggy
    Participant
    • Topics: 11
    • Replies: 177

    Nice job!
    I just sharpened that same knife for a chef!

    #24306
    Ziggy
    Participant
    • Topics: 11
    • Replies: 177

    looks good Steven! just make sure that you put it on a nice flat surface to make sure the blade makes full contact with the cutting board from tip to heel.

    Thanks Josh!

    Yeah, I’ve definitely been doing that… Heck, I’ve probably done it a dozen or so times now and I’ll probably do it again a dozen more! :blink: A wavy edge wouldn’t be cool… At all!!![/quote]

    Will just add .. put a bright light behind it … you’d be surprised what the eye misses.
    I’ve been using those clamp on leds from Lowes for a lot of stations.

    These things:
    led light

    clamp em on WEPS, Wheels, Alongside belts, Buffers ….. angle it right and you easily see the burr on anything you’re working on.

    #24313
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    I see from the picture that the blade edge appears to not be quite a perfect arc if you are doing this on the WE you need to keep the stones moving along the blade since they are narrow Gyutous do not have as much belly as a western chefs knife since they do less rocking cuts but there needs to be a little curve from a point about one third away from the heel to the tip and back from that point to the heel but only vert slight unlike a chefs knife but the profile can be easily checked on a cutting board either by rocking from heel to tip or tip to heel the blade should stay in contact with the board throughout the rocking movement the illusion in your picture is the heel third it looks almost as if you could loose at least a couple of mm from the heel termination but it maybe glare & shadow that are not helping in the photo.
    I have to say that blade curves are much easier sorted on bench stones since most of the length of the blade is in contact at all times.
    When I was new to sharpening with my EP I went through a brief period of either making bad blade curves with hollows or simply making them too flat which is like removing the suspension from a car when using a knife on a board.
    The danger area for any knife is just forward of the heel often people who use steels on knives create large hollows here this hollow renders the knife almost unusable on a board so even when using the WE this is the area in general that needs the least metal removal I found for me on the WE it was safest to start at the tip & work back but most knives except perhaps for ham slicers the heel tip should be slightly higher .
    If in doubt try to find the knife or a similar one on the net as a reference.

    #24315
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    looks good Steven! just make sure that you put it on a nice flat surface to make sure the blade makes full contact with the cutting board from tip to heel.

    Thanks Josh!

    Yeah, I’ve definitely been doing that… Heck, I’ve probably done it a dozen or so times now and I’ll probably do it again a dozen more! :blink: A wavy edge wouldn’t be cool… At all!!![/quote]

    Will just add .. put a bright light behind it … you’d be surprised what the eye misses.
    I’ve been using those clamp on leds from Lowes for a lot of stations.

    These things:
    led light

    clamp em on WEPS, Wheels, Alongside belts, Buffers ….. angle it right and you easily see the burr on anything you’re working on.[/quote]

    Forgot to mention I HAVE been using a light each time. I was in the car with a few people on the way to a wedding so I got distracted while I was trying to respond…. But, yes, light is a powerful ally in the sharpening world.

    #24468
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    Quick update:
    Removed the chip in the Miyabi. FINALLY!!!
    Mapped out where the thinning needs to take place.

    Feel free to comment before I get crackin’ with the stones! :woohoo:

    ~Steven

    #24469
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    dude that looks awesome!!! so you put black sharpie where you are going to thin? what stones will you be using?

    #24472
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    dude that looks awesome!!! so you put black sharpie where you are going to thin? what stones will you be using?

    Wow, thanks Josh!

    Exactly. The Sharpie is there simply to see where I’m hitting. What’s equally important is paying close attention not to cross over the relief and onto the flat area above while I’m thinning because it also serves as the new shinogi line; which will basically determine the cross-sectional geometry of the knife, and, therefore, its overall performance… I’m sure none of this is new to you and, if it is new, I know you’re already way ahead of me 😉

    The red line is where the new shinogi will be and the plane I need to maintain while I thin both sides.

    I have 250, 1000, and 3000 grit water stones I’ve been experimenting with beforehand, which I’ll use to thin and polish the relief. Then I’ll lay on the primary with my WEPS… obviously B)

    Oh! While I’m thinking about it, I just want to thank the individuals that have been watching this thread and contributing their wealth of knowledge. You guys are awesome! I also want to point out that John’s (Japanese Knife Imports) YouTube tutorials are incredibly helpful and responsible for much of my progress.

    One more thing… . I’ve come to be a firm believer that LIGHT and PERMANENT MARKER are two of the most powerful allies in a knife sharpener’s arsenal.

    #24474
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    I confess my ignorance when it comes to japanese knives, in both terms and thinning with waterstones! i will love to follow your progress Steven!

    I love my sharpie too 😉

    #24475
    Mr.Wizard
    Participant
    • Topics: 6
    • Replies: 190

    Nice job on the profiling. I never thought to black the entire thinning area but it seems like a nice idea. You’ll be an expert in no time at the rate things are going.

    What stones are you using for this?

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