sksharp

Mike,  I like to think sharpening Japanese chef’s knives is my area of experience.  I like to collect them, I regularly use them and sharpen these types of knives.  The issue with them is there are so many different kinds of steels, both stainless and non stainless, and different steel hardness.  These steels can vary greatly in how well or eas…[Read more]

This is a regular subject of discussion on this forum every now and again.  Here are a couple previous threads, I found for you, where we tried to help that forum member with your same issue. I found these searching “sharpening choil on the wicked edge”. There are other threads you’ll be able to find too, with a properly worded Google search…[Read more]

Tormek small knife holder with black plastic strap

The forum is supported by Wicked Edge but we are a totally separate entity. We are W.E. users wanting to help new users to figure it out.  In turn we learn through helping.

Just so you know, W.E. does have great customer support, too.

The Pro Pack 3 is a bundle purchase.  It’s the most well optioned and accessorized WE130 set-up.  The WE130 al…[Read more]

Steven you may be able to clamp that knife on the opposite side’s blade just under the longitudinal center line.  Then repeat when you sharpen the second side.  Depending on how slanted the blade is with the blue tape, foam tape, moleskin foam or chamois, one of these should give you the extra hold you need.

The Wicked Edge is called a knife s…[Read more]

Welcome Steven,  I can share that the WE130 model with the Gen 3 Vise is the most versatile W.E. model.  It can sharpen the largest variety of size, style and blade shapes.  That said, the Wicked Edge cannot clamp and sharpen every knife.  Some knives require the assistance of an additional adapter, a modification or maybe some ingenuity on your…[Read more]

You may find that if you check your angle settings each and every time you make a grit change you may see improved or more consistent outcomes.  If the angles are off, even a small amount, from grit to grit, you will not see the consistent scratch patterns stone after stone.  If is an extra step and may be time consuming but it helps you to r…[Read more]

The 400/600 is used quite a lot by many of us.  We try to start with the finest coarse grit stone that will get the job done.  After the initial time sharpening a knife with the W.E. when you needed to use the 100 grit, the 400/600 is often an effective starting stone for touchups.  This stone pair probably gets the most use.

W.E. is very good wi…[Read more]

Here’s a second video:

Yes it did.  The earlier, 2017 model, Gen 3 Vise used in the WE130 did not have the vise clamping tension adjuster feature.  Around 2017 is when  this new tensioner feature was introduced.  If the set-up has the tension adjuster and a vertical split halfway down the middle of the jaws, then you’ve got the newer 2017 version.

The other dif…[Read more]

I’m trying to help you determine if your sharpening stones are fully or sufficiently broken-in.  The more random rough appearance of each grit’s scratch pattern’s become more uniform, predictable and consistent when they’re broken in.

After starting a knife with your first coarsest stone, can you profile the edge to the bevel angle you want.  T…[Read more]

Like you said, Trevor, it’s hard to say on line.  I’ll try to help.  I’m sorry but I have to start with trying to determine your basic understanding, experience using the WE130 and use of a basic sharpening technique.

I can tell you I see the results of remaining scratch patterns from several previous grits running across and through the knife s…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum, Trevor.

It may help us, to help you, if you could provide some basics:

• W.E. Sharpener model?
• Which stones are you using? (For example: the standard W.E. diamond stone set).
• Which grits are you using for your sharpening progression? (Coarsest to finest).
• Are you using any other sharpening or polishing…

[Read more]

Even the diamond lapping films which are a great polishing medium, as fine a grit as they are, (used strictly edge trailing, that is up and away from the edge), can produce a very tiny burr.  (It can be seen with an experienced eye looking at high power with a USB microscope).

This is another reason I always finish with a stropping.

“airscapes” advice is also just as valid.  With more effort and edge refinement done with each and every stone in your sharpening progression, the end results are sharper, smoother and shinier.

Also, by employing alternating side strokes, left-right-left-right, in the edge leading direction, down and onto the edge, you will remove any remnants…[Read more]

There are two reasons to strop.  First to smooth or refine the sharpened edges.  It remove the snags and therefore, improve sharpness.  Second, they polish the bevels through their burnishing effect to improve the mirrored polish.  I use the basic (cow) leather strops.  To smooth, refine and polish my edges they work well, for me.  They do what…[Read more]

Welc9me to the W.E. forum, Mike.

Stropping your sharpened edges will smooth the snags.

I try to look at the belly as a curved section of a ball.  (Like a section of orange peel off a quartered orange).  I try to center the Billy’s curve with the jaws.  For the pictured knife it’s may be slightly forward of the blades center point to the length.

Then working with the depth key pin in the top wholes, with the knife centered to the cu…[Read more]

Also,  you have to work within the limitations of where you can best clamp the knife in the jaw on a flat or smooth spot on the knife.  That and thumb studs may also dictate where you can clamp it.