Organic

So you’re saying you’ve had to remove all of that steel just in the last year (assuming that the blade was level with the bolster when new) because it has had damage like that repeatedly? I’d say it is time to add that one to the landfill and start over with a quality blade. It’s shameful that Henckles would put their branding on that sad excuse…[Read more]

If the knife is treated well (not using a glass or stone cutting surface) and they look like this then I agree that the heat treatment is poor.

17 degrees per side will be fine. You don’t need to go all the way to 3000 grit. I’d doubt that the factory edge is much more than 800 grit. A well applied 1600 grit edge at 17 dps will make be a very good edge.

Stropping technique is something that every user has to discover on their own. When I first started I was following the wisdom from the forum and reducing the angle by 2 degrees per side while using light pressure. The results were disappointing and I gave up on strops for a few months. When I decided to give them another try I figured there was…[Read more]

I do think your edges will benefit from having one set of strops. I would also recommend the 4 / 2 micron strop pack if you’re only getting one set. This is not to say that the edge right off of the stones won’t be great also. The Wicked Edge will get your kitchen knives consistently sharp every time so I know you’re going to be happy with the results.

I don’t doubt that using a honing rod (ceramic or steel) works to restore sharpness to an edge. I have used them myself and know that they get the job done. Ceramic hones are way better than a metal hones in my experience. Hones are more convenient than setting up the WE for a touch up. You’d have to keep your WE in the kitchen with a set of fine…[Read more]

Expidia,

I’ve been thinking about this a bit more and I think the use of your ceramic rods to maintain the edge between sharpening on the WE might be the source of your issue here. When you’re restoring the edge with the ceramic rods you are very likely adding a micro bevel. It is nearly impossible to maintain a perfectly matched stroke angle…[Read more]

I’ll use anything from 400 all the way up to the 1.4 micron ceramic as a starting point for resharpening a knife. It all depends on how the edge looks and if there are any micro chips I want to get rid of. Like you, I have found that the 800 grit is often a good grit if the edge is in average shape. If it is needing work then the 400 or 600 will…[Read more]

MarcH sent me a series of microscope images that show a very small burr is formed at every grit in his sharpening progression even though he was not intentionally creating a burr. Burr formation happens if you are properly apexing the edge.

I intentionally form a burr that I can feel on the first stone and then just follow by loupe or microscope…[Read more]

May I ask what the reasoning was for not using diamonds to sharpen this material?

I have both of those lighted scopes MarcH posted. The “hand microscope” is a bummer because it magnifies better than anything in that price point but it inverts the image which makes using it an endlessly frustrating process in my opinion.

The “60x LED lighted jeweler’s loupe” is a great buy and I use mine just about every time I sharpen. It…[Read more]

I upgraded to the Wicked Edge from the Lansky over three years ago with no regrets.

The core steel on most modern Damascus style blades are a single steel type. The layers are wrapped around that core sheet of steel and do not become part of the cutting edge.

I think 600 is a really good grit for a toothy edge, but anywhere from 200 to 1000 can fit that description in my opinion. You’re the only one who can decide what grit of finish is best for your preference. I would suggest stropping even if you want a toothy edge, but I would reduce the angles by at least 2 degrees and try not to hit the apex too…[Read more]

Welcome Frank!

I agree with everything in Marc’s post. Modern Damascus style knives are made mostly for the beauty of the patterns and the bragging rights of having X number of layers. Ultimately, a three layer san mai constructed knife is not really much different to a 67 layer Damascus style knife.

If the inner core of your knife is a reactive steel then the…[Read more]

I would think olive oil would be a poor choice to reconstitute the leather because it can go rancid.

Well, I’ve never had an alcoholic beverage in my life, so I can’t blame that. My reading comprehension was just abysmal in this instance. I’m glad Marc was able to clarify the issue for you.

I like decreasing the angle by 1.5 degrees when I strop, but the key to good results that I have identified was to use heavy pressure. Light pressure doesn’t seem to do much good for my edges but using firm pressure yields a dramatic improvement in sharpness. I think there is an inverse relationship between angle reduction and pressure in order to…[Read more]

Wow, I totally missed his point. I thought he was talking about the pins on the depth key. Just now did I realize that he was asking about the guide rods.