Marion

[Marion]

go ahead and use the 50/80 grits. Take your time and give extra strokes as you increase your grits. If you have been working heel to tip, then change and run tip to heel. Just like in sanding wood and polishing plastics, and glass you have to break down the abrasion scratches into smaller and smaller bits.

Even some of the not so super steels take a good while to reprofile. A certain Becker#2 in 1095CrV comes to mind… Still it has a near mirror finish.

440 series stainless steels used to be concidered supersteels 30 yrs ago.

[Marion]

For an unassuming and inexpensive knife, in Sandvik 12c27m you can’t beat a Opinel. Well you can but why try at the price. They aren’t fancy, and nobody will want to steal them or probably confiscate one cause they are so unassuming. If you want to mod them you can…

You’d think the thin blades would fold up or break but I have cut steaks and raw carrots, wittled a little wood with the #8. Even cut cut down some old growth green briar(devils ivey) here with it. It will still take the hair off my arm after abuse. It does need a few passes on the WE now though.

I may have to get a few Opi’s for Christmas presents for the boys…

[Marion]

Tapes rely on contact to make the mechanical bond, the more uneven/unpolished the surface the less mechanical bond there will be.

We used to use M77 to mount masks to blast granite stones and memorial markers. Then the cleanup would be with Naptha, cause that stuff didn’t want to come off the stone.

Chances are high a good rubber cement for countertops/formica installation would work fine, you just need to bray it onto the paddle and the stone evenly, so you don’t get any humps, or off angles, when pressed together.

[Marion]

As one would say in the far northeast, “That is Wicked-Cool, eyah!”

[Marion]

While probably not part of this problem, but polypropylene is in a group of plastics refered to as self lubricating, and most adhesives won’t stick to them relatively very well or for extended periods of time.

[Marion]

I wonder if he has a scissor attachment?…

[Marion]

No eyed deer where you would find them in the US, but it shouldn’t be hard.
The part number would apply to a brand.
I think if it looks like it and has the same thread it will do.

That brand wasn’t listed in any catalog I looked in and I did go through 20 at least.

None had the rubber dust cover.

Oh Well.

[Marion]

I have searched several US parts houses. While there were many similar, not the same. None with that part number that I found.

Not that I have to have them but how much would they be in US$ plus shipping to the US?

Thanks.

[Marion]

The WEPs makes things sharp, pointy and possibly dangerous. I don’t think Oprah’ll put it on her list…

However, Martha might put it on her list of “Good Things.”

[Marion]

I would like a longer set of jaws that could hold flexible knives and make them inflexible during sharpening. Fishing/boning knives can be done incrementally, but I would prefer to get longer strokes on the blades.

[Marion]

great job on the video.

on the play in the joint between the rods and the black elbow, I pulled the assemblies off the sharpener and gave them a tweek in my arbor press to tighten them up. now almost no play from side to side.

I have the same ultra sonic cleaner. I never considered US-ing my stones. Yours is also much cleaner than mine… both the stones and US.

Had to look twice at your stone you used in the video. My 800/1000 stones are yellow and baby blue.

[Marion]

Great idea! Perfect for storing about the shop, to keep everything together and out of the way.

[Marion]

But, but… NO PHOTOS???

[Marion]

Very handsome your pockets should be proud to carry such knives.

[Marion]

If you will be doing this mod for someone in the near or even distant and unforseeable future, could you make a video of it please?

[Author]

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