Martin Singer

[Martin Singer]

The parts should never have had the black screws. They were designed with the pointed #10-32 screws to match the detents on the degree bar. The machine shop took a liberty with substituting the screws to save cost, not realizing the significance of their function. We’re working rapidly to get it resolved. It will involve sending out correct, replacement L-Brackets along with return labels so we can get the incorrect ones back. We should have a timeline within a few days. We’re waiting for the full list of people needing the parts to come in.

Clay, Please add my name to the list of recipients of black undersized screws. I am impressed at how quickly you react to issues. Very happy with the WEPS. Marty

[Martin Singer]

Received my new arms last week. They offer a much mre pleasant sharpening experience for me. I usually avoid the inevitable challenges.

I visit daily without logging in but enjoy the forum and Scott’s observations and questions. Scott, don’t wimp out like I did early on.

[Martin Singer]

Phil,
Great advice I have some in one of my gun cleaning tool boxes. I’ll try it tomorrow. I’m not interested in fast as much as easier on my shoulder injuries. The WE is unintentially great physical therapy plus it is a lot of fun..oh and I’m making my and my friends & family’s knives Wicked sharp.

Thank you,
Marty

Martin,
I put some dry graphite on the straws. This reduced the added friction to where it is not objectionable (hardly notice it). I tried several other lubricants but they did not work well. Any of the liquids would either dry out too fast or capture filings and other contaminants and gum up.

At first I tried to sharpen as fast as some of the videos I have seen show it. I found that slower deliberate strokes give me better results. Of course, when I am sharpening with the WEPS, it is for recreation and the pusuit of perfection, and I don’t mind the extra time. If I want a sharp knife fast, I spend 5 minutes with the belt grinder 🙂

Phil

I have to revise my strategy. Spent the entire day yesterday sharpening and realized that the resistance of the tight fitting straws was slowing me down. With a constant grip the sharpening became easier and faster without compromising a mirror edge.

No pictures though because I’ve been too busy with the WE to figure out the lighting to take good macro pics…maybe when the novelty wears off..

My solution would be… don’t use them! Even if there is a bit of play between the holder and the rod, as evidenced by the numerous videos, posts, and microscope pictures, it doesn’t hinder getting knives sharp. If you’re finding it a problem, just try adjusting your grip slightly.

cbw

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[Martin Singer]

I have to revise my strategy. Spent the entire day yesterday sharpening and realized that the resistance of the tight fitting straws was slowing me down. With a constant grip the sharpening became easier and faster without compromising a mirror edge.

No pictures though because I’ve been too busy with the WE to figure out the lighting to take good macro pics…maybe when the novelty wears off..

My solution would be… don’t use them! Even if there is a bit of play between the holder and the rod, as evidenced by the numerous videos, posts, and microscope pictures, it doesn’t hinder getting knives sharp. If you’re finding it a problem, just try adjusting your grip slightly.

cbw

[Martin Singer]

Will do. Thank you.

I think I’d take them both to 20 degrees per side at 3.5um and see how they perform. If the edge isn’t holding up, then you can add a little micro-bevel at 22-23 degrees per side. I’ve done a lot (hundreds) of field dressing and even my AUS-8 knives hold up well in the 20-22 degree range.

Thanks for responding Clay. The knives belong to my brother-in-law, they are for deer hunting. One is a beautiful, larger knife that is a custom. The skinner is a Schrade Old Timer Sharp Finger flat grind so I don’t know the steel but It profiles pretty easy (maybe not very hard). As a guess I started To profile at 25 degrees and thought I’d try a micro edge at 30 to make the edge last longer in the field .

The reality is that I don’t know what I’m doing.

Hey Marty. What are you hunting and what is the steel of the knives in question?

What is the general rule for hunting knives?

Bevel angle for skinning knife? Hunting knife?

Which is better in the field; a toothy or polished edge?

Thanks for your help.
Marty

[/quote][/quote][/quote]

[Martin Singer]

Thanks for responding Clay. The knives belong to my brother-in-law, they are for deer hunting. One is a beautiful, larger knife that is a custom. The skinner is a Schrade Old Timer Sharp Finger flat grind so I don’t know the steel but It profiles pretty easy (maybe not very hard). As a guess I started To profile at 25 degrees and thought I’d try a micro edge at 30 to make the edge last longer in the field .

The reality is that I don’t know what I’m doing.

Hey Marty. What are you hunting and what is the steel of the knives in question?

What is the general rule for hunting knives?

Bevel angle for skinning knife? Hunting knife?

Which is better in the field; a toothy or polished edge?

Thanks for your help.
Marty

[/quote]

[Martin Singer]

Hey Everyone!

I recently picked up some subway straws to attempt to take some of the play out of the rods to the WEPS. They are fantastic! However I am consistently running into a problem with them coming off the rods. I have tried to superglue them on the rods as well and use zip ties. I was hoping someone out there has a solution to this problem!

Thanks everyone in advance for all the amazing wisdom. Everyone on here rocks.

D

I haven’t obtained the Subway straws yet but has anyone tried the removable rubber cement use to temporarily bond paper? When you want to remove it just rub it off. I eil try it when I finally get the straws and report back.[/quote]

Picked up the straws over the weekend and put a small dab of Elmers rubber cement at the base of the rod then quickly slid the straw all the way down uver the cement on the flat section of the rod. I sharpened a single high carbon stainless Mondial chef knife for several hours. The straws never moved the entire time.

The knife, on the other hand, resisted reprofiling with th 100 grit diamond. This is the most resistant blade I’ve encountered yet. Looks like I need to get the coarse stones and try again. A second identical knife sharpened easily on my 1″x30″ belt sander with a 300 grit ceramic belt, just not the precision angle of the WEPS that I demand now.

[Martin Singer]

Hey Everyone!

I recently picked up some subway straws to attempt to take some of the play out of the rods to the WEPS. They are fantastic! However I am consistently running into a problem with them coming off the rods. I have tried to superglue them on the rods as well and use zip ties. I was hoping someone out there has a solution to this problem!

Thanks everyone in advance for all the amazing wisdom. Everyone on here rocks.

D

I haven’t obtained the Subway straws yet but has anyone tried the removable rubber cement use to temporarily bond paper? When you want to remove it just rub it off. I eil try it when I finally get the straws and report back.

[Martin Singer]

Absolutely beautiful.

[Martin Singer]

Just curious what others do if there’s damage or work needed (beyond sharpening) to their blade… fix a broken tip, remove major chips out of the edge, fix a reverse bow, reduce a bolster, etc. Do you use the Wicked Edge? Other equipement? Freehand? Send it back to the maker or to someone else? Live with it? Throw it away? Something else?

I personally have access to other equipement, like a belt sander, to do major repairs. Just wonder what others do, especially if the WE is the only thing you have available. What do you do? :unsure:

cbw

I have a well stocked home workshop including a belt sander that makes sharpening and repairs easy. I tried ( unsuccessfully) to freehand sharpen. The waterstones and misc. are listed for sale or trade on this and the CKTG forums. The best tool for sharpening is my WE.

[Martin Singer]

Is it possible to achiever factory or better edges on Shun knives with the WE without using costly water stones? Has anyone tried using the diamond stones up to 1000 the finishing with wet paper to 3000 grit? The edges with this process have been excellent on carbon steel and a few Spidercos. Your experiences could possibly save me from a costly mistake.

Martin – I wouldn’t hesitate a moment to do what you’re talking about. I’ve had great results on a lot of Shuns doing just what you’re suggesting. My advice is to go about it gently – they only need a tiny bit of work on the micro-bevel. Use a marker to find the exact angle match and then do a few stokes, probably with the 600# stones unless there are a lot of chips you want to take out, to raise a burr. Once you’ve raised the burr from each side, then proceed gently with the 800 and 1000 grit stones using alternating strokes and light pressure. Proceed to the 3k paper with the same technique and you should have great results.[/quote]

Thanks For the advice Clay. My Shun is wickedly sharp again. Using this device keep getting easier.
Marty

[Martin Singer]

Finally received my ceramics and was able to get a mirror edge on my Spyderco Pacific Salt after stopping at 1000 grit just the other day. It was very cool to see the edge just refine in the progression.

I will get some pics sometime this weekend and post back.

I also have a funny little “gotcha” to post about my WEPS. More coming up…

Great work! Doesn’t take long with this system. Can’t wait to hear when you reach your next milestone.
Marty

[Martin Singer]

Dan and Christopher have made excellent suggestions. I will make the angle adjustment mods/refinements and remove the arm pivot slop today. If I don’t have everything needed in my shop then on to the hardware store.

Has anyone tried Lexan Plexiglass for the film? I have a pretty good supply here.

Thanks for all the help. I hope to be able to recripricate soon.

I’ve had the unit for aweek now but spent the weekend trying to locate the shim stock. Apparently when Kay said she would have the arms updated when my device arrived, she didn’t pass that info to Kyle who told me the arms were perfect. I know they are very busy but this is still disappointing.

The brass shims are in place now..still have to fix the arm play. I am soo ready to by the ball joint arms! I hope to get Subway straws today or tomorrow. I also replaced the angle thumbscrews with flattened screws for infinite adjudtment.

Despite my startup issues I am pleased with the WE.

Next, I’ll cut some glass for paper and lapping film as using the lapping film polishes the edge but still dulls.

This forum is a wealth of useful information. Thank you all for for sharing your experience.

[Martin Singer]

Dan and Christopher have made excellent suggestions. I will make the angle adjustment mods/refinements and remove the arm pivot slop today. If I don’t have everything needed in my shop then on to the hardware store.

Has anyone tried Lexan Plexiglass for the film? I have a pretty good supply here.

Thanks for all the help. I hope to be able to recripricate soon.

[Martin Singer]

No misunderstanding… maybe a bit of different methodology on the paint.. I have some 10,000 grit polish 🙂

Just curious, how did you mount the lapping film?
I was thinking that if you used them on one of the stock stones, and did not reset the angle ..
well just the thickness of the film may have changed the angle enough that you never were working the edge of the edge. Not sure why it would have gotten duller, but maybe you were polishing the bevel only.

The 500 strokes per side with the 3 micron (is that what you meant by “mil” ?) lapping film would take a really long time to re-profile the bevel so that you would get to the edge, if the angle was changed (decreased in this case, by adding thickness to the stone).

Do you use an angle cube to set your angles, or some other device that can read angles to 0.1 degrees?
If not, perhaps what I am thinking might make some sense.

If using the stock angle settings, perhaps you might try increasing the angle by a degree and doing maybe 50 to 100 strokes per side. This would add a micro-bevel and make sure you are actually getting to the edge of the edge with your film. You might be happy with the result!

Phil

You may have the answer to my delema..I put the film on the 1000 stones and didn’t recheck the angle cube. I’ll try your suggestion tomorrow, it sounds reasonable.

Marty,

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