Justin Fournier
@justinfournier
active 6 years, 11 months agoForum Replies Created
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Cool pics, I am gonna suggest gloves or guards.
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My finger is getting better, no more scab but still missing some flesh. In that pic there seems to be bumps on my finger and one person asked if that was a flap of skin from the cut. However, those bumps are actually drops of blood running down my finger, so you can see how much it was bleeding. Pic was taken about 30 minutes after the cut, after I stopped the initial bleed, finished the knife and then had to remove saturated gauze as I underestimated the severity of it. That is when I took the pic.
Gloves will need to be removed to check sharpness, but this cut has taken weeks to heal and my finger might not be the same after. I have a baby to care for and a house to clean regularly, so this cut has been a massive inconvenience having to wear disposable gloves to change diapers, do dishes and prevent it getting wet. And this wasn’t even a really bad cut. I also bought the WE Guards, but I haven’t used them yet.
When I use my hands bare I am constantly washing them to remove metal debris, not sure how I will get that off the gloves in the mean time, but I suspect when I check sharpness I’ll clean my finger with 99% isopropyl and put the glove back on after. I will keep my ShopVac beside me on a few seconds longer and clean the gloves before I clean the vice/mount and surrounding working area which I already do now several times during a knife.
So it might take me cumulatively 1-2 mins longer to do a knife, but the time is worth not having a cut like this again.
Good luck to you both, very cool. Tell him it’s best to stick to easy and ideally cheap knives till he’s very confident in his process. Nothing is going to curb his enthusiasm like the scratches posted on a $650 knife not long ago.
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There are a million types of cut resistant gloves out there, I am currently going through 6 different variations of the Ansell HyFlex, which all fit next to skin so they are tight and have many models made for industrial applications such as sharp edged metal and glass.
Here is a pic to give an idea of one that is next to try:
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Ah, this is sad news indeed. I wish only the best for yours Mark, thank you for all you have done to help so many of us here.
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I used to do micro bevels on my EDC folding knives. Then I picked one up with a 23 dps close to FFG. And it cut really good as it has a thin stock. Now most of my knives are just more obtuse. I find I remove almost no metal when sharpening them, and for my tasks perform no worse.
Kitchen knives… I prefer the most possible effortless glide through whatever it is I’m cutting, so no micro bevel.
So in short, I used to like a micro bevel on a thicker stock where it required a more acute edge to cut well, then a micro bevel to get it back to being more durable, but when I switched to knives with thinner stock, the performance was already there with a more obtuse edge. I have almost all knives like that now.
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I often listen to YouTube or music when sharpening, and have not had issues with vibrations though I have powered Bookshelf speakers on my desk which are obviously way bigger than they should be, and an 8″ sub under my desk and I’m using the Floureon DLX360S. I am not sure the S is necessary, but for the cost of upgrade compared to what I have spent it’s nothing. I even have an AccuRemote I can send you, you can keep it if you want to try that one out. Should confirm your existing one, or perhaps they are both bunk.
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Sounds awesome Clay. What is a SWAT jig?
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The one pics looks like part of it was, to me at least. The differential scratch pic. If the same hone was used, I would expect the same scratch pattern though slightly different orientation.
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I have the same model Marc linked, and a couple versions of the AccuRemote which I sometimes use to confirm the primary cube but they are not nearly as good.
I think you can get a shaving sharp edge with the 1000s on some steels, but not necessarily all. Depending what task you are using your knife for, it might be somewhat of an artificial measure of sharpness though. My knife I used to use on cardboard won’t shave arm hair after some boxes, but it will tear through boxes like a beast. Where as a really highly stropped edge can shave clean but be more fragile with something like cardboard and after doing a few it will neither shave nor cut cardboard well.
A good working edge for most of my folders is what is sometimes referred to as a toothy mirror. It’s diamonds to 1000, really lightly finished with set teeth, and then the arms are taken down a couple degrees and the edge is very lightly stropped a few times to bring out a little shine on the edge, but not take the teeth out. That edge done right generally will shave for me, but I have done a couple that for whatever reason the steel was not happy with it, and it refused to really shave, but still cut really well. D2 is an example of that.
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Welcome and sounds like you are on the right track, minus the cut which I have recently done as well.
My suggestion for keeping the primary grind even is to start off by correcting it without focusing on the burr. Just take note of everything (literally helps for me as I get interrupted often by kids), and go about getting it as correct as you want to. You will often find by that point you have already got past the burr part. As you have a microscope, technically there is no reason for you to create a burr as you can observe when you have reached the apex. Creating the burr is simply a foolproof technique to ensure you have got all the way to the apex, you can do that with your scope without wasting the metal.
So I would setup the knife after observing, even marking (I use sharpie on the tape I used to protect the knife) what you want to do, get it setup in an appropriate spot, then get to evening out those bevels. Once you achieve that, you have probably hit the apex. So take out your scope and see how the apex looks. If you have already got to it, and your edge is satisfactory, go through your progression working both sides evenly, and you should have excellent results. If not, get to the spots you need to, but keep the bevel even. Match the opposite side. You should be good at that point.
In the future your work should be much simpler.
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Trying to keep it short and simple…
The WE130 is a much better for folders and many fixed blades (particularly thicker ones) in my opinion. First of all it centers the blade, that’s important. Second, it’s much easier to mount a knife with a full flat grind, or a distal taper into it. That’s something many folders have. So setup is easier, more consistent, and you get a better result.
I bought the WE130 to replace my Pro-Pack 2, and there are many others who have done the same.
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No need to get new stones if you don’t want to, though I only recently picked up the 1500/Glass handle set with 6 micron lapping film and I am thrilled with the results. Absolutely worth it.
There are a couple reasons it could happen.
First, if you check you may find the edge is not exactly centered along the center line of the knife. Or you worked one side a little more than the other, for example if you are right handed, you may have actually removed more metal from the right side creating a larger bevel than you did on the left just due to strength and dexterity differences. This is common for people who make knives for a living in factories, so consider it possible for new WE users as well. It could be that the secondary grind on the knife is actually off, and thicker on one side of the knife than the other.
Don’t be discouraged though. You will get better results as you continue to improve your skill, break your stones in and find more and more little way to do better with it.
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