JKingRPh
@jkingrph
active 6 years, 6 months agoForum Replies Created
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I received one which seems strange and somewhat inappropriate.
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soniyalove2017@hotmail.com
Conversation between you and Kristen. Delete
Kristen Sent 1 hour, 4 minutes ago
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Nice to meeting you;
I am Miss Kristen i see your profile on meet and I really love your profile, I have chosen you to my friend. please, I want you to reply directly to my private email at (soniyalove2017@hotmail.com) so that I can give you more of my pics and tell you all about me.I do not understand what she could see in my profile as there is almost nothing there. I most definitely did not reply.
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I just tried out my Gen 3 Pro today. I found with a large chef’s knife the markings were way off. To get a 20 degree angle I set the marked gauge to 25 degrees then used an angle cube and the fine adjustment to tune to 20 degrees.
How high above the clamp does the edge of the knife sit?[/quote
I am not absolutely sure as it has been a few days and everything is put away for now, but I’m guessing around 1 1/2 inches. The blade width in this old set of knives runs from around 3/4″ for a small paring knife size to probably close to 2 1/2 ” for the larger chef’s knife, with various widths in between. At this point in my experience I am thinking it best to use a marker and match the bevel then use an angle cube to match the sides( so I will slowly get both sides of the bevel matching, remembering I am working with nearly 45 years of hand sharpening and do not want to remove too much metal just to have things perfect, just want good, sharp, and durable edges)
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I just got my Gen 3 Pro, and did some first sharpening yesterday on a old set of Henckles chef’s knives. I agree the 8″ rods are too short, especially for a couple of the longer knives and ordered a set of 12″ rods. I think one that is much too long will work better than one that is too short or marginal, so I skipped on the 10″.
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I’m late to this party, just having received my WE a couple of days ago. As a pharmacist let me chime in. Ethanol, probably the least toxic of alcohol, is the one found in all the various beverages, and can be bought as a straight alcohol under the name Everclear in 151 or 190 proof which is 75.5 and 95% alcohol by volume. It is what chemists and pharmacists refer to as hydroscopic, meaning that it will absorb moisture out of the air when opened and gradually dilute to about 70%. To avoid federal tax on ethanol, it has various compounds added to make it unpalatable, or bad tasting. These compounds are chosen to be extremely hard to remove, ie, normal distillation will not remove them as the will vaporize and recondense at about the same temperatures.
It is available for special purposes in various other forms, such as absolute alcohol which is 200 proof or 100%, and again it will not remain that concentration for long after opening a sealed container. It is also very expensive. Then perhaps Organic can add his two cents worth as a chemist. I suspect chemically pure and reagent grades are available although I have never seen them.
Normally 70% ethanol of the non denatured variety is used medically in preparing some liquid forms of medications for oral use, although that use has decreased dramatically over the last 20 or so years, as many “elixirs” which are defined as iso alcoholic or water alcohol mixtures and been reformulated to simply syrups, so that mostly pediatric patients will not be exposed to alcohol. Denatured alcohol can be used for skin cleaning and sterilization, and is often found in the little disposable alcohol swabs.
Isopropyl alcohol is most commonly found as 70% and sometimes as 99%, and can be used externally for the same applications as denatured ethanol
Generally both are good , mild solvents, sometimes one or the other will be better for a specific purpose.
Acetone is another class of chemicals altogether, ketones, and is much stronger and aggressive, dissolving or damaging many plastics and paints, and I think one of the things that will dissolve and remove cured superglue(cyanoacrylate or methylacrylate)
If you have a stone glued to a glass or metal surface one of the various alcohols would probably be ok for cleaning, acetone would probably soften and weaken the bond.
I think acetone is a very good cleaner. However can be very harsh to certain surfaces and does leave residue behind. I do spritz my strops with 91% alcohol not so much to moisten the strop but it seems to help the paste or emulsion from coming of the strop onto the blade. After the first 3 of 4 times after loading the strop, I’m not sure that the compound coming off is as big of a concern.
Acetone is an excellent solvent, I have not received my WE yet, but did get in a set of ceramic stones. Acetone could, and I am not saying that it will, adversely affect the adhesive holding the stones to the handles, or even soften and melt the handles themselves, just depends on what kind of plastic they are made of. Basically acetone and plastics “don’t mix”
Hey MarchH. The only alcohol that is denatured is ethyl alcohol, ethanol, to make it taste very bad and unfit for consumption as a beverage. Isopropyl alcohol by nature , along with many other alcohols have a bad taste and are unfit for consumption, and in fact can be extremely toxic, methanol, ie, wood alcohol , being one of the most toxic, consumption of which can often cause blindness, and in more extreme cases death.
Thanks, I have been doing a lot of reading, and looking forward to trying it out tomorrow, if it arrives as promised.
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