Brewbear
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03/26/2021 at 7:02 pm #56501
Thank you Marc, replied just now!
03/25/2021 at 5:10 pm #56496Your Japanese is better than mine! Thank you for posting your findings, much like you I collect knives I like and the precise Rc rating is not the determining factor. From the little reading I’ve done, Buck has a proprietary (I believe) hardening procedure that they use on their blades.
03/25/2021 at 5:03 pm #56495I believe WE offered a riser block some time ago but I don’t see it available anymore. I wish they’d make it available again, I surely be ordering it. Short of that, maybe one of the gents with 3d printers will take pity on us, the printer challenged ones.
03/22/2021 at 6:41 pm #56456<p style=”text-align: left;”>Wicked Edge is idiot proof. </p>
Well… pretty much, but we have had a couple of individuals who gave up on it either because they didn’t want to invest the time to learn the basics or were so mechanically-challenged they didn’t begin to understand the basic principles. Never underestimate the limitations of those at the bottom end of the bell curve.
I wouldn’t say it is “idiot proof”, keep in mind there are some very “talented” idiots out there!
02/28/2021 at 4:24 pm #56314Interesting point @OOORobert, I’d be interested in your findings.
02/28/2021 at 1:52 pm #56312I agree with @airscapes, only the apex will do the cutting and finishing the shoulders at different grits is a gimmic at best. Microbevels are a different story all together. They provide a toothier edge while protecting the said edge if you are not using a super steel but prefer an acute sharpening angle. Case in point, one of my knives is VG10 and came with a sloppy 20* per side factory edge. I was still in my “experimenting” mode so I quickly reprofiled it to 12* per side yielding a very sharp and slicey blade with the “added” benefit of rolling the edge about every time I used it. After numerous tries and going thru many pages on this forum I ended up doing a microbevel at 14* using the 1000 grit stones. The blade itself is fairly thin behind the edge and with the modified sharpening I have a very useful knife.
02/03/2021 at 9:09 am #55924When I reprofile a blade (and I do like 17 or even 15 degree ) I use a scrubbing up/down motion like you do. Where I differ is that I scrub one side and then the other, switching sides before I have a burr. By scrubbing both sides (alternating) you will approach the apex evenly. In my limited experience, scrubbing just one side (going from 20+ degrees to 15 or 17 degrees) until raising a burr on one side only and then switching to the opposite side will tend to yield results similar to yours. Others, more experienced members are sure to chime in so be patient and practice on “el cheapo” knives until you get the results you want.
01/14/2021 at 8:09 am #55772I usually sharpen the straight part of the blade and reposition the knife in the vise to sharpen a curved tip end if the curvature is very significant. Sharpening a blade in sections works well for big kitchen knives (or machetes) but you have to remember to blend the sections.
01/12/2021 at 3:32 pm #55754I guess I’m one of those people that likes to fuss over their knives. I sharpen the family kitchen knives to 1000 grit, mostly 20 degrees with a few at 17 degrees. My personal kitchen knives are sharpened at 15 degrees (or less) to 3000 grit and stropping if time permits. It definitely takes longer than 4 minutes per knife since I’m not a slap – dash sharpener. As others said, to each his/her own but I believe if a job is worth doing, it is worth doing well. This is not to say Kyle’s way of sharpening isn’t good but it isn’t something I would do.
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01/11/2021 at 10:23 pm #55745So it feels crazy sharp but after scoping it I see all the chips. Side profile is very defined. I progressed up to 1200 grit Questions to you guys that work magic how would you proceed?
That may be explained by having scratches on top of scratches. If your stones are new, they will be more aggressive. If you follow Kyle’s technique, that will be the end result: a very functional edge without much polish. I’m not sure if you have a micro bevel on your edge but that is besides the point. As the more experienced members here will tell you, it takes a bit longer to get that polished edge. My routine is: at every grit change I check angles then use a scrubbing motion until I eliminate all the heavier gauges left by the previous grit and then I do a series of edge leading passes until I see a fairly regular pattern. That holds true for lower grits. At 800 grit an above I forego the scrubbing and use edge leading motion. I alternate between heel to tip and tip to heel : 800 grit heel to tip , 1000 grit tip to heel and so on, but always edge leading. This way you can see with a microscope if you fully cover the previous scratches. I start using a edge trailing motion when using DLF (diamond lapping film) or strops.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 11 months ago by Brewbear.
01/10/2021 at 12:08 am #55729I have a set of 50/80 and honestly, I used it twice on a couple of machetes that were so beat up and damaged they couldn’t cut cold water. If space is a problem, then yes, buy a set for those rare occasions when you have to remove a lot of metal, Even then, I wouldn’t apex (raise a burr) with them, just get really close to the apex and then use the 100/200 to raise a burr. The same amount of metal can be removed with a file and reprofile with the 100 stones.
01/06/2021 at 10:27 pm #55681DPS= Degrees per side
01/01/2021 at 11:48 pm #55608I never thought of using a ultrasound bath to clean my knifes, I’d be concerned about the edges getting damaged if they touch the bath walls. Then again, that’s why we have a WE system, to fix those edges. I use Kurobara oil to protect my blades in the kitchen and by extension (read lazy… maybe a little) my folding knives as well. https://www.amazon.com/KUROBARA-Tsubaki-Japanese-Maintenance-Camellia/dp/B001TPFVHC
I bought a bottle in January 2020 at MarcH’s advice (I think) and it barely shows I’ve used any.
- This reply was modified 3 years, 11 months ago by Brewbear.
12/30/2020 at 2:56 pm #55584Another thing to consider is setting up the widest blades at the bottom of the vise indent (deeper than the “hole” guides), that would would decrease the height of the blade above the vise jaws and make it a more universal angle for different blade widths. Just a thought!
12/30/2020 at 2:47 pm #55583 -
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