Need Angle of 45 Degrees
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LOL – listening to the book “Live from New York” – behind the scene interviews with cast members and writers from 1975 – 2015 – very interesting stuff. SNL was a “must see” for me
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The scissor attachment won’t work for the goat hoof shears?
I thought they would have a much more blunt angle – but I can’t seem to find any numbers on that from Wicked Edge… But maybe you are right – I found a scissor site that said 40-45 degrees which is what I need. I will have to pick up that attachment. I think it would clamp the disassembled shears well. Yeah I will give that a try.
It works great for me on my scissors. I forgot what the offset is from the base level for the scissors attachment, but the chisel attachment is offset 26° from base level, if I remember right. But the easiest way to sharpen them is with the sharpie method anyway. The scissor attachment also grips very well, better than I expected it would.
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Factory profile on this hoof shear is about 40 degrees. With the WE120 set as far wide as it can go, it barely clears the sharpie off the factory bevel. She has several different manufacturers of these shears, some factory edges are a bit over 40 degrees and I have to reprofile.
Here we are getting a proper angle – just barely.1 user thanked author for this post.
While waiting for scissor attachment to arrive, I took the riser block off.
Now it goes to 45 degrees easily, so I have freedom to easily move around that 40 degree range to clear the sharpie and approximate factory angle (which is usually around 40 degrees)1 user thanked author for this post.
Here the scissor attachment is on. Of the 3 positions this is closest I can get to factory angle but can’t clear the sharpie off anything but the apex.
Celestron USB close up. Best I could do with scissor attachment on this particular hoof shear.
WE120 with arm moved outward as far as it can go.
Closer in.At this point, I think I am going to do all my long kitchen knives while the riser block is in place. Then remove it so I can do the constant supply of dull goat hoof shears, and still do the average length knives, my Paramilitary 2’s etc. without riser block.
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Bob, the Wicked Edge steel square bar is 5/16″. You can replace it with a longer bar. It probably needs to be 14″ or 16″ longer, overall. Then you’ll be able to achieve the wide angle settings needed to sharpen the hoof sheers with the SA while the riser block is still in place. The longer square bar won’t effect your knife sharpening ability. You will have to learn to work with a flat sided square bar without the delineations or angle indents. The mini L brackets can be locked in place against a flat square bar if the set screw pointed tips are flattened. You may find it’s helpful to use two 10-32 set screws for each side bracket. One screwed in from the front side and a second one in from the rear.
If you want to pay the expense you can have a bar machined with the indents. I met a guy that did that for me years ago as a one-off deal. See the attached photo showing my modified setup.
The new square bar will need one hole drilled up through the square bar to secure the bar up underneath the blue W.E. mount and up into the stationary left vise side. If you have the tools to do metal fabrication you may be able to cut and drill the 5/16″ steel bar yourself. If not a local metal shop, machine shop or welding shop can easily knock it out.
Coincidentally the 5/16″ steel is the same dimentions as many rotisserie rods like those used on an outdoor BBQ grill rotisserie accessory.
I made this modification to my W.E. setup many years ago to improve my overall angle range I can achieve. I work with this longer square bar in place all the time.
Marc
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