sksharp

Steve, the WE100 is an entry level sharpener.  It is basically equipped with a minimum selection of sharpening  stones and no accessory features.  It has the basic standard vise clamping system with angle adjustments to 1/2° increments.  There is no ability to make fine angle adjustments with that setup.

There are only minor cosmetic or appe…[Read more]

Here’s the link to a W.E. forum post for a hack I came up with, years ago, to label your sharpener’s angle scale to match the relative angles of any height knives for the type of stones I was using at that time.  The angle readings change for each lever arm setting depending on the sharpening stone…[Read more]

Those knives look like great candidates to practice with on your Wicked Edge as you break-in the diamond stones and develop your sharpening technique.  I hope you took advantage of that opportunity.

Using a file is a good method some of us employ to remove badly damaged edge steel and reshape the edge geometry.  I usually clamp the knife in the W…[Read more]

Yes, on the flat portion of the blade, perpendicular is almost straight up and down.  As I move onto a downward curved tip perpendicular relative to the knife edge angles away for me.  At the very tip end of an almost round curved knife tip, this can be an almost horizontal motion.

This method is what I’ve found works well for me.  Other’s ha…[Read more]

Russ,  I can’t see the shaft end of the tensioning adjuster underneath your clamp locking lever.  Does your model have the clamping tension adjuster?  It’s a small lever on the back side of the vise labeled (+/-).  It’s a helpful feature but not necessary to be able to use he W.E. well.

There are some known issues with the micro-angle adj…[Read more]

The 10/32 screws need to be sized to the right length, (not too long).  The screws need to get tight in order to hold and mount the WE130 securely, before the screws bottom out in the threaded mounting holes.

I share Tom’s assessment.  You made your bed, so to speak.  I’d be inclined to use the knife as it is and correct the bevels a little at a time as it needs sharpening, in the future.  Especially if it’s a nice or expensive knife.  You can easily remove too much steel, but you can’t ever put it back.  Some knives are profiled in a manner that they…[Read more]

Russ,

the sharpie method in theory is a good way to determine the existing bevel angles of a clamped knife. The bevel angles you’ll determine using your angle cube readings, after the sharpie is removed, should be a good representation of the existing bevel.

There are several factors you need to consider:

1. the bevel angles may be factory…

[Read more]

Lot’s to unpack here.

First I don’t know which model version Commercial Series you’re using.  There’s a pre-2016 version with the vise locking lever mechanism inside the bottom locking cabinet.  The newer, post-2017, model version uses  the Gen 3 Vise.  The same  Gen 3 vise used in the WE130 and the Gen 3 Pros.  If it’s a newer model year Gen 3…[Read more]

Russ, I will add if you choose to simplify things.  With a little practice and something to set your knives depth at 5/8″ above the jaws line, I wouldn’t know why you couldn’t sharpen your knives based on the base plate angle markings.  It’ll be close enough to the measured relative angle you’d read with a cube.

To simplify adjustments I’d back t…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge forum, Russ

Welcome Russ, many of the W.E. users do use a digital angle cube to set the bevel angles.  The inscribed numbers on the sharpener are as you said strictly for reference and may be irrelevant except in the 5/8″ situation.

I use the depth key strictly to mount the alignment guide or the advanced alignment guide to record positioning references in…[Read more]

Now that you’ve gained experience sharpening a few knives with your W.E. it becomes easier to recognize areas on the knife edge that are more challenging to sharpen.  The extremes of a knife, the tips and the heels, are often the edge portions where it’s more difficult to match the flat sharpening stones to these blade contours.

Breaking the…[Read more]

Why it’s that way?

A 60/40 or 70/30 uneven or asymmetrical beveled knife is sharpened that way intentionally.

right handed knives:

The bevel angle doesn’t really have anything to do with it.  Whether it’s 13°, 18° or 25°, it’s about technique, effort, consistency and attention to detail.  It  may take you a good deal of practice, and for your stones to get broken in.

You can’t discern a difference between 13.1°and 13.2° when it’s done properly.  Even 1/2° or more differenc…[Read more]

A knife can be ground on both sides the same.  That is a “V” grind with equal bevel angles on both sides of the knife.  It still can be a left handed or right handed knife determined by the shape of the knife’s handle.

I’m in agreement with everything Tom says..

The 27° degree angle that Kyle stated he was using was from a glance down at the Gen 3 Pro’s angle setting lever’s position relative to the white printed angle deliniations on the blue semi-circular base plate. This was after he decided he was matching the existing profile.  That angle reading alone h…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum, “david”.

To actually thin a knife down, behind the edge, like you’re describing is generally attempting to use a more acute angle setting then can be achieved with your WE130.  At that low of an angle setting your sharpening stones will probably contact the vise and/or jaws before the stones will impact the edge…[Read more]