Nicko

[Nicko]

Tried the other stroke directions and scrubbing is best on the first stone, then edge leading is king IMO.

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Expidia, Marc H

[Nicko]

I raise a burr on the first stone, with scrubbing, then approx 50-100 strokes edge leading to get the scratches going the same way, then each stone  approx 200 alternating strokes , edge leading each stone progression, which is heaps, once the burr is there you’re just honing that edge right?

I wear cut proof gloves now lol.

I find this provides a really nice sharp edge, no loupe really necessary after the first stone to make sure I’ve got the marker removal correct. Although I can’t help myself and loupe anyway lol

 

[Nicko]

tcmeyer wrote:

Look like Nakiri knives. Are they pretty heavy?

Very thin and light, really poor quality wise but I really like them haha.

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[Nicko]

Pic…

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NotSharpEnuff, Organic

[Nicko]

Can’t seem to add a picture, will do when back.

[Nicko]

Marc H wrote:

I do each and every grit the same procedure or routine as you wrote you did with the 100 grit. I do not count strokes. I do enough strokes to reach the results I’m looking for, then move on up a grit. I start with 100 grit only as needed. If I can get by starting at a higher beginning grit, (say 400 grit), I will.

I used to Mark but I read that scrubbing may cause micro chipping and edge leading produces the sharpest edge, certainly seems to!

[Nicko]

Hi, so after trying quite a few different methods, here’s what works for me.

For my average knives like kitchen knives I only sharpen to 1000 grit, trust me, that’s plenty, 600 grit is actually plenty for a crazy edge.

Ok I scrub with 100 grit to get the angle I want and remove all the marker on the edges. Then I do some edge leading with the 100 grit just to get the scratches aligned.

Next I do 200 edge leading strokes with each stone, it seems like a lot but it just means I don’t have to keep stopping and checking with my loupe.

And that’s it, watch your fingers with edge leading, I tried to fillet a finger today and don’t recommend trying that lol.

Today I used this technique on a large kitchen knife and the edge is scary, I sharpened it to 18 degrees, arguably a bit fine for a kitchen knife but I did it for fun. Holy hell that thing destroys paper and shaves effortlessly! Scary indeed, I warned my wife to be careful of that knife if using or cleaning it!

Happy sharpening, edge leading is the answer for me.

Cheers.

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Organic, Marc H

[Nicko]

Marc H wrote:

Be very safety conscious when bring your fingers down onto exposed sharpened edges. I suggest no-cut-gloves or Safety shields to “save the digits”.

Might just do that Mark, although it was a reminder for me to concentrate on the job at hand (no pun intended) 🙂

[Nicko]

Organic wrote:

What you are experiencing is normal. Small knives at low angles is a difficult combination for the WE. The low angle adapter doesn’t clamp these knives very well either which you have clearly observed as well. Your best bet is to go for a more obtuse angle. Some people have modified their sharpeners to have a riser block between the clamp and the base plate to allow narrower angles and this is a successful strategy.

Can someone pls show me one of these?

[Nicko]

Here’s another thread on the same topic I found.

http://www.bladeforums.com/threads/knife-photography-lights-and-diffusion-tent.369096/

[Nicko]

Nicko wrote:

Thanks sk, i’ve been doing exactly what you said and finishing with ultra fine strokes. I cant wait for the loupe to arrive so I can have a look at the scratches etc! Thanks.

So the loupe was really interesting. Re-sharpened an old pocket knife this morning. it was sharp but not the paper slicing weapon it now is haha.

After some great advice from you guys I changed to edge leading for the stones, alternating heel to tip and tip to heel through the stones, with some scrubbing thrown in, then stropped the 5 and 3.5 strops. My mistake, i though Clay was doing a lot of edge trailing strokes in quite a few videos, but I wasn’t paying near enough attention! My fault for doing multiple things at once.

The loupe showed me my left handed strokes need work, and the loupe was excellent in showing fine bits of marker where I hadn’t put in enough work with the 100 stones.

highly recommend the loupe or microscope method, removing previous scratches makes a big difference IMO.

Thanks guys!

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Mark76, Organic, Marc H, wickededge

[Nicko]

Marc H wrote:

Woody: Welcome to the Wicked Edge users family and the Wicked Edge Forum Your results will improve remarkably as your stones wear and break-in. I believe it took at least 8 or 10 knives before I saw the full potential of the new stones, as they got better with use. The new coarseness, and some high grits spots will wear and even out and you’ll get better sharpening with more consistent scratch marks and smoother edges. Also as you continue down the road to sharpness your technique will improve. I too had my doubts at the beginning. That’s a common comment we hear from most new users of Wicked Edge Systems. Welcome, Marc

What Marc said x2. I’m newish to the WE and have started getting very happy with my results, this morning though was my first sharpening with using a jewellery loupe, I’ve probably done 20 or so knives now at a guess. My stones have broken in nicely and just keep getting better and the loupe showed me where i needed to concentrate to remove scratches from the previous grit. The result was an insane edge that I’m really happy with. Your stones will break in and get better and better, grab some friends fishing knives etc to wear the stones down a bit. enjoy!

 

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Woody, Marc H

[Nicko]

wickededge wrote:

I use a wide variety of stroke directions. When I’m profiling the bevels I often use a scrubbing motion. Once I’ve apexed the blade, I go to alternating strokes, usually edge trailing, heel to tip with one grit, then do the opposite with the next grit to help me see where there are remaining scratches. The last bunch of strokes I do with a solid stone are usually edge leading, heel to tip to lay in the “rake angle” and get the best edge. With strops and lapping films, I always use edge trailing strokes.

Thanks Clay, watching some of your videos again, you’re just too damn fast 😉

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wickededge

[Nicko]

Marc H wrote:

sksharp wrote:

I recently have started filing or scrubbing the cutting edge(90 deg. to the blade) on a lot of the knives that I see. Most of the knives that I get are severely worn and with some kind of damaged edge, what’s left of them.

I do the same. My 90 deg / perpendicular to the knife filing or scrubbing is with the length of the knife heel to tip to heel. I think it keeps the edge smoother and puts less stress on the apex of a thin hard steel knife. That’s probably exactly what everyone is doing also. Just wanted to put it in writing for anyone else that might not employ this technique to discard damaged worn metal on the edge.

Hey guys, anyone know where those edge trailing vs edge leading results photos are? From the videos i’ve seen, Clay looks like he’s running handle to tip edge trailing?

just so i’ve got this right:

edge trailing, stone movement is away from the knife spine (regardless of stone direction tip-handle or opposite etc).

edge leading, stone movement is towards the knife spine (again regardless of direction along edge by stone).

so cereal boxes are just used to mount the lapping film on, or are you actually polishing with cereal box material too? Anyone got a video of this? Do you glue or double sided tape films to the box?

[Nicko]

Josh wrote:

I use a light box and my smart phone!

That’ll do it!

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