Joe
@hmjgriffon
active 3 years, 8 months agoForum Replies Created
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02/17/2021 at 12:11 pm #56171
I guess it takes a while before enough metal gets removed then because I would assume the angle on the edge would change eventually leaving the arms the same.
It just depends on how much steel you need to remove. Once you have the apex of the blade profiled properly, sharpening it up should not remove much steel. That is assuming that you have no damage to the edge that needs fixing.
correct, I just meant over time, might take hundreds of sharpenings.
02/17/2021 at 11:41 am #56169Are you also checking the angles and using a market at the start of each touch up session also? I’m assuming as you touch up a knife you’ll have to tweak the arms to keep the same angle.
I log everything on paper and I usually take a photo of how I position the blade in the vise. But I do use my sharpie a lot. I have only seen that I need to tweak the guide rods when I am reprofiling a blade. Once the edges are properly profiled, sharpening them up should be a piece of cake.
I guess it takes a while before enough metal gets removed then because I would assume the angle on the edge would change eventually leaving the arms the same.
02/17/2021 at 10:24 am #56167I sharpened my first knife today on the WE130 from start to finish, its one of those old cheap “survival” knives that probably costs about $10. at the end one bevel is definitely skinnier than the other I was going for 20 dps, am I correct in saying that when you start out setting at a certain degrees you will need to re-adjust the rod every now and then because I am assuming the stone will be sitting on the shoulder of the bevel when you start?
Sorry, our power went out at noon on Monday and just came back on. But Marc pretty much covered it. You just need to check what the bevels look like and see what your angles are using your sharpie. Then you can make a plan of attack. I sharpened my Kershaw Launch 1 for the first time early Monday morning. The apex looked good and the angles were close to 19dps. The right side was right on 19, and the left side was closer to 20. So I reprofiled the left side using up/down strokes starting with my 200 grit stone until I, “nearly”, reached a burr. Then I cleaned up the right side starting with the 400 grit stone till I reached a burr. Then I went back to the left side with my 400 grit stone and sharpened it till I reached a burr. Then I worked both sides with alternating edge-trailing strokes until I got the scratch pattern on the edges matching. I then progressed through my stones to a nice toothy 800 grit. I always make sure no burrs are left with a couple of edge-leading strokes before I move to the next grit, or at the end of the last grit. But I am kinda OCD about removing steel. I hate to remove any more good steel than I need to. So even if the edges don’t look exactly alike, I will use the knife and slowly bring the two edges even over time as I use/resharpen the knife if making them even right away would remove more steel than I want to. Unless I want to collect the knife. If I am collecting it and will not use it then I will bring the edges looking even when I reprofile them. And then mirror polish the edges the best that I can. But I will still try not to remove any more steel than I need to.
Are you also checking the angles and using a market at the start of each touch up session also? I’m assuming as you touch up a knife you’ll have to tweak the arms to keep the same angle.
02/15/2021 at 4:08 pm #56147When I am reprofiling a blade, I will scrub up/down going to the tip and back 3 times on one side. Then do the same on the other side – back and forth until I start raising a burr to keep the edges even. That is assuming of course that the edges already looked even to begin with.
I sharpened my first knife today on the WE130 from start to finish, its one of those old cheap “survival” knives that probably costs about $10. at the end one bevel is definitely skinnier than the other I was going for 20 dps, am I correct in saying that when you start out setting at a certain degrees you will need to re-adjust the rod every now and then because I am assuming the stone will be sitting on the shoulder of the bevel when you start?
02/09/2021 at 10:45 am #56033. The downside of trying to work at this level of precision is it slows you down while you make all the very small increment micro-angle adjustments while trying to use this instrument to it’s fullest capabilities. The precision afforded by the WE sharpeners invites us “perfectionists” to attempt to work at this level.
true that. 😀
02/09/2021 at 10:22 am #56031Read my post again, I edited it for clarity!
I figured it out, it’s giving you a warning right after a step that you aren’t in the correct position for the next step, funny haha. I’m squared away, I was playing with zeroing, this unit is very sensitive, you’ll see all 0’s for a second then it will kinda bounce between all zeroes and like .01, .02 back to 0, a little annoying but I guess that is what you get with all of the accuracy and sensitivity. I do like that it measures from 90 degrees no matter which side you you flip it.
02/09/2021 at 8:32 am #56029Joe it should be calibrated. Do the factory reset and try again… I am attaching a download of the procedure. Try to use this starting on page 15. DXL360S-v2-Dual-Axis-Digital-Protractors
It probably is calibrated I was just gonna do it again for giggles lol. I’ll check this guide.
02/09/2021 at 6:46 am #56026I also use the DXL360S , besides the precision it is re-chargeable via USB. I don’t have to worry about changing batteries. Ed K.
so I got the DXL360S and thought maybe I should try to calibrate it even though they probably did that at the factory, I tried the level calibration, did step 1, spun it 180 for step 2 and it says wrong direction or something an flashes the message but then acts like it wants to go to the next step, I tried turning it 180 in both directions. Is this normal or have you not tried to calibrate yours? Should I just not worry about it? I haven’t dropped it and I don’t think it’s been in extreme temps but who knows, it came in the mail, I think it did come from the local amazon warehouse though.
02/08/2021 at 8:14 am #56010Is there room for the metal or granite base they sell to put in there?
Yeah. You just remove the vise lever and L-bracket/Guide rods, and then set the vise down in the center cutout with the base attached.
Awesome, gonna get one of them at some point.
02/07/2021 at 7:14 pm #56006More photos.
Might have to get me one of them.
I think they are worth the money. I almost bought the WE130 by itself and added the other stuff without the case. I didn’t have a choice of buying the Pro Pack III without the case like they have it now. But I’m glad that I have it. I don’t travel much but I know my stuff is protected if I do. Or if I need to get my vise and stuff out of the way for some reason, I can just put it all in the case and it’s safe and all together.
Is there room for the metal or granite base they sell to put in there?
02/07/2021 at 6:44 pm #56004More photos.
Might have to get me one of them.
02/07/2021 at 2:28 pm #55988I got the low angle adapter, and the 12″ rods they suggest.
The 12″ guide rods should handle most knives. They are also great with my scissors attachment. I’m still going to get some 15″ because I know that some day I’ll be glad to have them waiting inside my wonderful Hard Carrying/Rolling WE case.
I do plan to get the 15″ at some point, and the scissor attachment looks pretty sweet, I watched a video on it. Can you show some pictures of the hard case? They don’t show much on the website, do you have to break your entire system down to put it in there?
02/07/2021 at 2:09 pm #55985Polished edges are great for push cutting. Personally, I only put polished edges on knives that I intend to collect and not use. Normally on user knives, I will put toothy 800 or 1000 grit edges on them.
That’s what I am thinking, I just ordered the 800/1000 stones to go with my 100/200 and 400/600, that will honestly probably be all I ever need, I like to hand strop but I may try the WE strops.
Good deal! Well when you want to start polishing edges, WE has everything that you need. Did you get the 15″ guide rods also?
I got the low angle adapter, and the 12″ rods they suggest.
02/07/2021 at 2:02 pm #55981Polished edges are great for push cutting. Personally, I only put polished edges on knives that I intend to collect and not use. Normally on user knives, I will put toothy 800 or 1000 grit edges on them.
That’s what I am thinking, I just ordered the 800/1000 stones to go with my 100/200 and 400/600, that will honestly probably be all I ever need, I like to hand strop but I may try the WE strops.
02/07/2021 at 2:00 pm #55980Quick question, when you are trying to change the angle of the bevel, say a 24 down to a 20 for example, when you lay the stone on that side, it’s going to probably contact the shoulder of the bevel, would you just take that angle with your angle cube, adjust the arm until the cube reads 20 and then go with that? or like if you wanna just take it down a little each time you sharpen it set the stone on the shoulder, and adjust until you are 1 degree less than the bevel that exists?
The way that I do it is to set the angle that I want. Then after I scrub both sides for about 10 passes to the tip and back, I recheck my angles on the stones and make adjustments if necessary. I always try to remove as little steel as possible.
Good idea, didn’t think of just re checking as you work it down.
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