Chazz

You finally stated in clear and concise words what I asked you in the long involved post last night.  I never stated you were doing some wrong or your observations were wrong.  I was just asking you, trying to understand where in the grit progression you saw the difference(s).   That it’s only the fine grit;1000 grit!   If it’s only the last,…[Read more]

Does the remaining marker, down low, show 200 grit isn’t scratching everywhere from apex to shoulder?

Question: did you hold the stone(s), each and every one, flat against the square and inspect for flatness or dishing?

So far so good!  Are these last pictures 100 grit?

In the photos you posted, your remaining marker on the bevels indicates your not reaching the apex always.  That picture clearly illustrates the clamping lean you see.

The way it is now you’re not sure it is repeatable.  If you remove the knife, the LAA and the material between the knife and jaws.  The next time it may not come together the sa…[Read more]

If the knife is off center that explains the different is the bevel heights seen with the marker when both are set at 15º.  It won’t give you uneven bevels.  Un even bevels are when a centered knife is sharpened with two different angles for each side.

Your 15º angle is contacting the knife at two different height positions on the bevel. If you…[Read more]

Thanks for the effort, Drew.  As you said it’s a hard and crude method to employ when dealing with 0.25º<>0.50º which are very tiny differences and especially using the AccuRemote digital cube which isn’t always the quickest meter to settle in and lock, and juggling everything like you did.  Allowing for molding imperfections in the plastic han…[Read more]

Drew when you track down the square, you can use the square to measure the distance to the knife edge form side to side, with the square sitting flat on the base and slid flat up against the vice side, to see if the knife is leaning to one side.

You probably think my detailed questions in my posts above are a P.I.A. to read and figure out what…[Read more]

I’ve read all your posts in this thread, a couple of times and I can’t get a handle on this issue because I don’t read if you experience the same situation  with the other stones as you do with the 800 grit going to the 1000 grit situation.  Do you see the same situation that you encounter between the 800 and the 1000 grit with the other stones u…[Read more]

Answer  a couple last questions. Do you see a consistency between every other stone? The only time you see this is going from 800 to 1000? Does it also happen 800 to 1000 if you swap the stones end for end and side for side?

Drew, please be patient with me and this trouble some situation…

The posted image KIMG3779  with the knife pointed to the left, the bevel is at the top and the marker is at the bottom of that bevel, correct.

The next image KIMG3780  the knife point is facing right and the bevel is scratched on the bottom with the marker on the top of that b…[Read more]

Drew in the photo KIMG3771.jpg it appears as though the LAA is clamped angled to the left in vice jaws.  Is that effecting the knife bevel moving it off center to the left?

You stated you’ve done 20 knives.  If those sharpened to your satisfaction, the only difference is this particular knife.  It doesn’t have to shift much to show the errors you’re seeing.

Drew looking at the photos your bevels definitely appear faceted.  Indicating they’re applied at different angles.  I don’t know if the knife is slipping in the low angle adapter, I see you’re using. Or possibly the low angle adapter is slipping or shifting in the vice jaws.  Possible your guide rod angles are not staying locked and these are sl…[Read more]

Correct.  I still use the old ball joints.  I have wiped the balls clean with a dry paper towel to remove the metal dust and lubricated them with a dry lubricant product on the order of this product.  Then rotated the ball to all the extreme margins and this helped greatly to loosen them up.  The larger diameter guide rods in conjunction with the…[Read more]

The ball joint ends that are included with each model that feature micro-adjustments have all been upgraded, yes.   The ball joint itself and the threaded socket that accepts the threaded angle guide rod are the same.  The screws that attach the ball end to the bracket ends have changed in accordance with how each specific model they’re used wi…[Read more]

There are no upgrades for the WEGO, at this time.

For me it’s hard to maintain an edge leading, parallel, scratch pattern from heel to tip, while maintaining constant contact between the diamond stone and the knife edge, as the guide rod swings through it’s arc of rotation, as the stone slides done the rod, without the scratch pattern becoming…[Read more]

Yes the plates are heat glued to the flat part inside the raised outer frame. I’d make sure to remove all the old glue remnants to have a flat clean surface.  I have used 3M Super 77 Spray to glue leather strips to these WE handles to make new strops.  That works very well for that application.  I can’t see any reason why it wouldn’t hold the di…[Read more]

Anton, I hate to spend your money so easily.  I would recommend both pairs.  I do think you’ll find an easier time doing it and the best results with 200, 600, 1000 then 1500 grit progression.

For portability and simplicity, to keep your stone collection you carry in the WEGO case to a minimum, I would remove the 800 grit and the 1500 grit s…[Read more]

Welcome to the Wicked Edge Forum and Community Anton.

I will start with warning you to be very careful when using edge leading strokes with your Wicked Edge.  You are pulling the stone down on and against the exposed knife edge and anything dangling will get cut.  I know that from personal experience.  That being said, I do use edge leading st…[Read more]