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If they have loctite on them… heat is the only thing I know that will loosen it… if you can’t otherwise break the bond.

Kershaw will send you screws. Go to http://www.kershawknives.com/contactus.php?brand=kershaw where it says “Subject” open the drop down box and click Warranty Service… some boxes will appear asking for your address, the model of the knife, and the parts you need… fill it out and just wait a couple of weeks, and they’ll show up!

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Cool. It sounds like you’re confident you’ve reached the edge, but an edge that fails that fast is still a burr issue. I would still try making a couple of very light, edge leading, alternating strokes with the ceramics (if you have them) at a 3-4 deg. higher angle. You’re not trying to create a microbevel… just enough to clean up the very edge… see if that helps.

If not, you can then go to Plan B. 🙂

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I can’t speak to the steel quality, but an edge that fails after only a few paper slices means that it still has a burr. When converting a convex edge to a straight edge… it’s tricky reaching the very edge… if for example, you mark it with a sharpie, it may look like it’s all gone, but if you look at it under magnification, there can be the tiniest line still visible. There’s a video that talks about this…

My suggestion would be to start from around the 400g stone, thru to whatever you want to finish at, and make sure that you have a good clean edge established. If it still fails, then you could add a small microbevel at a higher angle (I’d do it with the ceramics or finest stone you have), just a few very light alternating strokes to ensure the edge is burr free, and strengthen it a bit.

Clay also did a video sharpening a Sebenza (but he returned it to a convex shape)…

There seems to be a lot of “problem sharpening Sebenza” threads and videos… switching a convex to a flat grind usually causes this. It doesn’t have anything to do with one grind being stronger or better than the other… it’s just a matter of getting to the very edge.

Let us know how it goes!

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Loctite’s definitely in the kit too.

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Good question… on a related note, has there been any microscope pics of balsa finished edges? I’ve seen lots of leather, but can’t recall any balsa. This might add some insight.

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Glad you brought that up.

While there are a variety of options, that one won’t work. It doesn’t contain the right type of bits to work on most knives. (Or it would work, maybe, if you got the correct bits separately.)

One other thing I forgot to mention. If you need parts for a knife, some makers will provide them. Kershaw, for example, will send replacement screws, springs etc. for free. And if you call and ask, sometimes they’ll throw in the tool to work on the knife for no charge. I don’t know if others do… but it wouldn’t hurt to ask! 🙂

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That’s very very nice.

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My coarse Micro-Fine stones were more coarse than I wanted at the moment, so I took them all the way up to the 1000# diamonds, progressing from the 100# stones up the line. I also have a 3um diamond bench stone that I used to finish and the coarse Micro-Fines were like a whole different set of stones.

Was just wondering why the lapping progression vs. just lapping on just the finer stone,,, or maybe just the 1000 & 3um?

How much time on each stone did you spend? I’m guessing this doesn’t take much?

Any idea how much of the ceramic (thickness) this used?

Thanks!

cbw

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My solution would be… don’t use them! Even if there is a bit of play between the holder and the rod, as evidenced by the numerous videos, posts, and microscope pictures, it doesn’t hinder getting knives sharp. If you’re finding it a problem, just try adjusting your grip slightly.

cbw

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Thanks… but the credit goes to MarkAlexander… it’s his video. I just posted the link to make it easy to find (or for those who avoid Facebook). 🙂

cbw

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Here’s the link (to make it easy)….

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RHObrwckScI

Great job!

cbw

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Totally agree, and what was surprising to me is that, even at a very fine finish, this difference can still be detected.

cbw

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Hey Phil…

Don’t know what to add about the 5K, maybe someone else will have some ideas.

It’s not just a matter of “an abrasive is an abrasive”. The easiest way is to look at an extreme. You can, for example use sandpaper on top of leather, in grits equal (or at least similar) to a stone, but will get a totally different result. The same is true with using a stone that breaks down (Chosera) vs. one that doesn’t (Shapton). Similar abrasive, different result. And while you’re right there are changes in the progression… like going from diamond to ceramic, or to leather, it’s a complete change, not a mixture, if that makes sense. In other words, once I switch to leather, I don’t switch back to a stone. You’re also right that some sharpeners will add a natural stone… but again it’s usually a finishing stone, not one they add in between other stones… at least that’s the impression I get.

In fact, I overlooked the section in your first post where you stated you go thru all the diamonds, then start over with the 400g Chosera and go thru that progression. If “grits are grits”, why do you do that? Not saying it’s right or wrong, but my guess is, you see a difference doing this vs. going thru the diamond progression to 1000… then starting with the 2000 Chosera and working up?

What I did key on was “I am getting pretty impressive edges now…” with what you have. Looking to improve on that would be trying some of the finer abrasives you mentioned. I just don’t see where a Shapton stone would fit in to what you have and are doing now… other than just to try something different, if that makes sense. (I could add more… just trying to keep the post a reasonable length.) 🙂

Hope that helps.

cbw

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Cool. Great answers… like the diversity I’m seeing!

Who else?

cbw

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Hey Phil…

I’ll start by saying I’ve used both the Choseras and Shaptons freehand, but not on the Wicked Edge, so while I don’t think it matters… thought I’d throw that out there.

I personally would not mix and match. The stones are a different type… the Choseras break down and create a bit of mud, the Shaptons are almost like the ceramics, they’re hard and barely wear… so they cut and work different.

I don’t know how thick the 5K Chosera is that you have, but maybe you could lap it a little, and see if it clears up the scratches you’re seeing. Maybe it got contaminated? Also if it has a little mud on it, don’t clean it off during use.

I haven’t used the Kangaroo / Nano cloth… but from the results Clay got… sounds like it might be a good addition before the Shaptons.

Just my .02.

cbw

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