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Lapping the Micro-Fine Ceramics

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  • #4169
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    Cliff Stamp has posted elsewhere that these stones definitely benefit from lapping. Today I worked on my set and it made a huge difference. You can easily use the diamond stones in your set to lap your ceramics and depending on which grit you use to finish, you can dramatically alter the way the stone performs. My coarse Micro-Fine stones were more coarse than I wanted at the moment, so I took them all the way up to the 1000# diamonds, progressing from the 100# stones up the line. I also have a 3um diamond bench stone that I used to finish and the coarse Micro-Fines were like a whole different set of stones. I can see where there might be times when I want to add a little texture back to them to give certain knives a little bite, so I’ll experiment with lapping on different grit stones and see what comes of it.

    -Clay

    #4172
    Ralph Honeycutt
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 24

    Clay, This is very helpful. I did not really notice the aggressiveness of the mirco-fine ceramics. I will try it with the higher grit diamond stones. I am very satisfied with the micro-fine ceramics. For my purposes they produce excellent results. If the micro-fine ceramics had been available 6 months ago, I may not have been so determined to buy the Choseras and Shaptons, but I like them all for different reasons. The micro-fine ceramics are the best value (IMO).

    Ralph

    #4176
    Steven Corpstein
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 6

    Ralph,
    So are you going from the 1000 grit diamonds to the micro-fine ceramic paddles, or are you using something between them first?

    #4177
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    My coarse Micro-Fine stones were more coarse than I wanted at the moment, so I took them all the way up to the 1000# diamonds, progressing from the 100# stones up the line. I also have a 3um diamond bench stone that I used to finish and the coarse Micro-Fines were like a whole different set of stones.

    Was just wondering why the lapping progression vs. just lapping on just the finer stone,,, or maybe just the 1000 & 3um?

    How much time on each stone did you spend? I’m guessing this doesn’t take much?

    Any idea how much of the ceramic (thickness) this used?

    Thanks!

    cbw

    #4178
    Ralph Honeycutt
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 24

    Steven, After the 1000 grit diamond stone, I use the super-fine ceramics and then the micro-fine. I have not yet tried going directly to the micro-fine ceramics from the 1000 grit. I will give it a try this weekend.

    Ralph

    #4181
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    I started lapping with the 800 grit and it was going well but there were a couple high spots so I decided to knock those off with the coarse stones. I didn’t measure before I started and now I wish I had, but I can’t imagine I removed more the a couple thousandths judging from the material that came off.

    My coarse Micro-Fine stones were more coarse than I wanted at the moment, so I took them all the way up to the 1000# diamonds, progressing from the 100# stones up the line. I also have a 3um diamond bench stone that I used to finish and the coarse Micro-Fines were like a whole different set of stones.

    Was just wondering why the lapping progression vs. just lapping on just the finer stone,,, or maybe just the 1000 & 3um?

    How much time on each stone did you spend? I’m guessing this doesn’t take much?

    Any idea how much of the ceramic (thickness) this used?

    Thanks!

    cbw[/quote]

    -Clay

    #4244
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    I wanted to do a couple more knives before I posted this. I could tell the coarse Micro-fine was more coarse than rated… but as an alternative to lapping, I’ve been using it after the 1000g diamond, which seems to set up the edge better for the rest of the ceramics. So. I’ll go Coarse Micro-fine. –> 1200 –> 1600 ceramics –> Fine Micro-fine… then onto leather (if desired). 🙂

    Just thought I’d present an alternate use that I’m liking.

    #4245
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    That’s exactly what I was doing before I lapped my coarse Micro-fine stones and it worked great. Now that they’re all smoothed out, I’ll have to see if it still works well in that progression.

    I wanted to do a couple more knives before I posted this. I could tell the coarse Micro-fine was more coarse than rated… but as an alternative to lapping, I’ve been using it after the 1000g diamond, which seems to set up the edge better for the rest of the ceramics. So. I’ll go Coarse Micro-fine. –> 1200 –> 1600 ceramics –> Fine Micro-fine… then onto leather (if desired). 🙂

    Just thought I’d present an alternate use that I’m liking.

    -Clay

    #5004
    Scott
    Participant
    • Topics: 27
    • Replies: 121

    what is “um” and how does it relate to grit numbers? I.E. how many um’s to a grit or a 100 grit for example or perhaps vice versa? What grit would a stone be to equal a “um” or a fixed quantity of “um’s”?

    Thanks.
    Scott

    #5021
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    Good question Scott. um is the abbreviation for Micron. Here is a chart that shows how they all compare: Grit Comparison Chart

    what is “um” and how does it relate to grit numbers? I.E. how many um’s to a grit or a 100 grit for example or perhaps vice versa? What grit would a stone be to equal a “um” or a fixed quantity of “um’s”?

    Thanks.
    Scott

    -Clay

    #5358
    Jerrie Barber
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 20

    O.K. So I think I’m picking up what you are putting down, however I am a visual learner. Is there a video on lapping the ceramics? Should I lap similar to how one would flatten a Chosera water stone, I certainly do not want to ruin my new micro fines and I have a set of fine stones coming so a little education here would be helpful.

    #7518
    Gary Crumb
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 119

    I know this is a somewhat older post but I was wondering if the lapping was just for initial usage and getting the aggressiveness of the ceramics right or if they will need to be flattened like natural stones do?

    #7525
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    It’s mostly the initial usage and to get the aggressiveness right.

    #7528
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    What Curtis said… the ceramic stones are VERY hard. I was suprised and how much I had to work them on a coarse diamond plate to see any difference at all. They should do many , many knives before you would have any dishing.
    If you meaure them with a traight edge, and they need flattening, be prepared for some hard work.

    BTW, I tried the crosshatching trick to indicate when the stone is flat with a permananet marker. Apparently it penetrates the ceramic.. I never have been able to get it out of the one stone. If you are going to do this, use a pencil…

    Phil

    #7541
    Gary Crumb
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 119

    Thanks guys!
    I was actually wondering if it was just my imagination since my course ultra-fine seemed to be courser than the 1600 stones. I’ll try lapping them on my DMT extra fine unless you guys think something courser is necessary.

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