Robert Nash
@bobnash
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01/22/2015 at 11:03 pm #22822
Looks like it could be starting to bend on you. My original vise shows just a touch of light through the top (similar to your pic) after years of use and is working fine like that so I’d probably just keep an eye on it and if it gets wider give Wicked Edge a call and I’m sure that they will get you set up with a replacement lickety split
06/15/2014 at 8:58 pm #19113One tip that really helped me was to make sure my grip on the paddles was the same every time.
+1 – super important
06/15/2014 at 8:47 pm #19112Thanks Mike. I remember seeing this now.
That raises another question. When you tilt the blade down how to you get it back in the vice exactly the same way next time? That is the easy part of mounting parallel is I can record the setting on the alignment guide (ruler) and put it back the same way.
With the blade tilted how to measure a. how far forward/backward it is and b. how much angle it is tilted?
When you use the tape to you get it perfect? I.e. the tip and the main flat section both touch the edge of the tape? Reason I ask is do the same tape trick with mounting parallel, but the tip never quit makes it to the tape. The end result is normally a pretty even bevel though.
here is a solution from a while ago put up by Larry at SW Florida Holster that I really like for recording the tilt when you tip the knife so it isn’t resting of both pins – or don’t use the depth key at all. Use a drafting triangle in combo wiht the alignment guide. Triangle give you height and the alignment guide lets you record how far away from the vise you are measuring. I use this a lot on dagger style blades where I don’t use the depth key. It can work for placing the knife flat (horizontal) or tipping. I record the tip height with distance forward and the blade height at the handle just as a double check to be sure I get it tipped the same amount and if it is horizontal I measure tip height and the blade height at the vise to get the same depth into the vise.
06/15/2014 at 12:00 am #19099+1 on tc’s comments – good stuff there! If you are getting to the cutting edge and getting a good burr from the start along the full length of the blade on both sides, then breaking in is going to help a lot.
Also, keep your pressure against the knife light. I use a little more pressure when working to establish the edge but once that is done I try to think of just lifting the stone and letting it just lean on the knife. Doing that will help with the life of your hones too.
Something thing that might help with your stroke, at least that many people I teach to find helpful, is when you have the top of the stone resting against the edge at the heel of the knife, think of bringing the bottom of the stone to the tip. and, you don’t need to push all the way off the tip of the knife (if you do this you can end up with your hand across in front of the knife and catch your thumb on the tip when you come back). Just move about half of the stone or so across the tip then lift the stone away from the knife making a circular motion to bring the stone back to the back of the knife again and down the rod. And make sure your fingers are behind the guard if you are catching the edge coming back – hate to get a cut that way!
Be patient learning the motion, it sometimes takes a little practice and will improve with more knives.
Have fun!
04/27/2014 at 9:52 am #18444The “official” Wicked Edge booth? Does Oldawan with Bob & Emily count?
Though Wicked Edge is the most prominent system at our table I’m not sure we count as official….too many other systems hanging around with us now 😉
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04/27/2014 at 9:30 am #18441Good advice, that was my error when I first started, felt a burr then switched sides. Now I test the whole length of the blade and work the sections that do not have a burr until they do. I also started (based on forum advice) using a ‘frizzed’ Q-tip and if you drag it up against the side of the blade you can easily feel it catch if there is a burr. No catch, no burr.
T
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Great! Did that get you set then or are you still having an issue with the tip. Let us know and we’ll try some other suggestions if it is still giving you trouble 🙂
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04/27/2014 at 3:12 am #18435Hey Eamon – just ran into this on Facebook the other day. Really a cool design – thanks for putting it up here. Trying to figure out how to justify the expenditure so I can dull it and then make it sharp again 😆
04/27/2014 at 3:08 am #18434Welcome to the forum – and your Wicked Edge
The easy place to start – are you getting a good burr out at the tip from both sides? I often notice that the tip is the last part of the edge where the burr forms – presumably since it gets the most use and takes the most abuse. I always try to feel the burr formed along the full knife edge from both sides when I first sharpen a knife
04/27/2014 at 2:23 am #18432Great idea – I’m game to trying to keep better track. I just started a completely new set of diamonds at the Eugene show so shouldn’t be too hard. Doing many fewer shows this year so my volume is way down though 🙁
I just retired my show set of 400/600 and 800/1000 diamonds to be used only on my personal knives as they are starting to get some bald spots – I’m trying to stretch their life out now as they sure do work great now :cheer: . The first show they got used at was back in 2011 in Albuquerque with Clay when he taught me how he does a show. They got me through more than 40 shows averaging somewhere around 40 – 50 knives a show. Been through a group of 100/200s since then – maybe 6 or 7. Haven’t replaced any other handles – 50/80s, superfines, curved etc but they really don’t get used much compared to the diamonds. Have replaced my strops probably twice (changed out the leather that is) I do almost every knife with 100 – 1000 plus 5/3.5 strops at shows – only occasionally do I need the other handles.
04/27/2014 at 2:02 am #18431Call Wicked Edge on Monday and I’m sure that they will help you out immediately.
+1 – they’ll get you set up
04/27/2014 at 1:57 am #18430Hi Duane – Welcome to the forum! I hope all is going well with the Pro Pack II for you
04/27/2014 at 1:56 am #18429Is that for use with the real stone bases, so they don’t crack?
No it is just because the base thicknesses vary and sometimes the sharpener won’t tighten down all the way without the washers. I recommend not using them unless you need to as I have seen some of the blue aluminum bases strip out when only a thread or two of the screw is all that is holding it down. :sick:
Some of the rock bases come with a standard washer instead of the rubber backed depending on fit – cause on the rock bases the washers can also help with getting the sharpener straight as the way the rock fractures when the drill bit comes out can sometimes cause the screws to want to pull off center
04/27/2014 at 1:52 am #18428Hey Gib – looks like that was a great time. Sorry we couldn’t be up there. Maybe next year…
the line up looks great – hope you have a great time today and tomorrow too!
02/21/2014 at 12:46 am #17276My grandpa’s old pocket knife
Both look great. Love the etching on this one – very unique
02/21/2014 at 12:44 am #17275Be great to meet in person, and you’d be more than welcome to hang around as long as you liked and talk/watch/sharpen….. Every once in a while you can just pretend your buying too :silly: – helps with sales!!! 👿 :whistle:
Hope you can make it
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