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Viewing 15 posts - 106 through 120 (of 490 total)
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  • #21243
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    The reason for rounding the point is that you are going to far along the bevel with the plates(stones etc)whether you sharpen with the WE or freehand the point requires concentration . Firstly as you have discovered if you run off the tip you will round it off and secondly the tip area often been higher up the blade it is often on a thicker section so it may well merit a lower angle . I would suggest that you treat the tip as a different area until you get the discipline plus you can then do it at a lower angle and blend it back into the main bevel plus it is desirable to work back from the tip towards the main bevel this should minimise the rounding you have been getting.
    The WE still requires attention to what your strokes are doing and relies on hand ,eye & ear to work at its best since it is a tool rather than a machine therefore everything you do with it will have an effect whereas a machine once set up just does its thing.
    I hope this helps plus many chefs like a sharp point for knife misses (opening bags etc)

    #21250
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    the blade it is often on a thicker section so it may well merit a lower angle

    good post Leo.

    Did you mean higher angle? I find that I have to increase the angle at the tip on production knives pretty often so they don’t “widen up” on me.

    In this video I explain how to deal with the tip:

    #21252
    Mr.Wizard
    Participant
    • Topics: 6
    • Replies: 190

    That looks like a rather through treatment of the WEPS. Thanks. I’ll be sure to watch the entire thing when I am in a mood to absorb the material. For the moment could you tell me which minute to jump to for the tips on points? (Or is that points on tips? :whistle:)

    #21254
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    I agree with you if you wish to keep the bevel even throughout . There are two possibilities from here thin the edge profile so the profile along the whole length of the blade is the same so that the cutting bevel is even throughout which will require a god bit of eye & feel or simple allow the bevel to increase in height at the point.
    It will largely depend whether the knife is a show knife or a working knife .
    A deba for instance will have a combination of angles the final quarter to third near the handle may have a higher ‘V’ bevel for push cutting through vertebrae whilst the rest of the blade will be a chisel edge with the uriaoshi sharpening on the concaved back side many of these type of knives have multiple angles for instance the secondary bevel working down from the shinogi is often split into two angles steepened by a few degrees about half way down and terminating at the edge then topped with a micro bevel and then as said the final quarter near the handle will have a steeper angle still which will be repeated on the back side to create a ‘V’ bevel. The back side (uri) is sharpened with the blade flat to the stone and is done with leading edge strokes this does two things it allows the blade to leave minimal damage to the fish leaving a sheen and it removes any burr.
    I should add that Shun do not use these angles but they are really more western knives made to look Japanese where as brands like Missono are more of a Japanese knife (with western handles) their guyutos sport a 70/30 bevel.

    #23508
    phillyjudge
    Participant
    • Topics: 21
    • Replies: 63

    DUDE.
    It must have taken, like, forever to paint those colorful parallel lines on that shiny blade. 🙂 Thumbs up!!

    D’Oh….that was a reply to Clay’s first post.

    #23537
    Pat
    Participant
    • Topics: 16
    • Replies: 114

    If I understand correctly from Josh and Clay, you have to ensure that you absolutely do not allow any rotating of the paddle around the tip with heel to tip strokes. Also, you can work the tip exclusively and carefully by doing some tip to heel strokes.

    Yeah, getting the tip super pointy is an art.

    How do you get the tip that perfectly sharp? I always seem to round mine off at least a little. :([/quote]

    #23538
    Lance Waller
    Participant
    • Topics: 23
    • Replies: 138

    Question: I saw where Josh had stated and have also seen someone else here say that they have used bushings on the paddles. Do they take away the play in the paddles? If so…..what bushings do I need to get and how are they installed?
    Thanks

    #23539
    Pinkfloyd
    Participant
    • Topics: 22
    • Replies: 208

    lwaller1980,

    When I had the original arms a user on this forum had suggested Subway Straws slid over the rods to compensate for the play (only Subway straws worked). I tried and it did work, don’t know about the new Pro Pack 2 rods, I will try again

    #23563
    CliffCurry
    Participant
    • Topics: 42
    • Replies: 461

    I believe its Tcmeyer that originally posted regarding a bushing upgrade. Some where in his posts he listed or linked a spec sheet to the actual item….Sorry cant be more helpful.

    Aloha, Cliff

    #23569
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    lwaller1980,

    When I had the original arms a user on this forum had suggested Subway Straws slid over the rods to compensate for the play (only Subway straws worked). I tried and it did work, don’t know about the new Pro Pack 2 rods, I will try again

    No lie, I’ve tried probably 40+ subway straws on my PP1 and PP2 arms and none of them fit. The most I could get them on was about 2 inches up the straw before they crumpled or split in half. I’m almost certain that mod only applies to some of the very first stock of WEPS… Like years ago… Since then I think Clay upped the OD on the guide rods to minimize the issue.

    Also, keep in mind that metal braids away plastic, not the other way around. Steel shavings trapped within the ID of the handles could wear them out over time as they guide up and down on the stainless rods. Indeed we’re talking about very small shavings, but over the course of sharpening let’s say 200, 300, 500, or even 1000(!!!) knives it could very well remove enough plastic from the handles’ ID.

    Maybe… I definitely haven’t sharpened that many knives yet.

    #23834
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Re-profiled to 15 dps, then Choseras up through 10k, then 14um-1um strops. Wicked sharp 😉

    Here’s another, same profile:

    #23835
    SHVentus
    Participant
    • Topics: 14
    • Replies: 64

    They look great Josh!

    #23836
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    Hey Josh,

    Those are great photos! Do you mind if we post them to our Facebook and Instagram pages? Of course we’ll credit you and list your business if you’re okay with it.

    –Clay

    -Clay

    #23837
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Hey Josh,

    Those are great photos! Do you mind if we post them to our Facebook and Instagram pages? Of course we’ll credit you and list your business if you’re okay with it.

    –Clay

    I would be honored that you would consider that Clay! Sure! :woohoo:

    #24324
    stephen floyd
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 3

    Thanks for the deal on the strop yesterday clay. I’m no pro just a novice. I’ll try to get better photos. 100 – 3.5 micron leather strop.

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