Damn, I really just screwed this edge up?
- This topic has 39 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 06/26/2018 at 4:34 pm by
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Okay, I just looked at it again and you’re right. That doesn’t look like a torx. Other Benchmades have a torx screw for their thumb studs, even other emissary models.
I’m not familiar with that hardness chart. I’m use to the HRc hardness scales.
I try to use the finest grit I can get by with. IMO 30 minutes seems like a long time to draw the initial burr. I probably would have stepped back to 100 grit. Remember the longer you use the coarser grits the more they tend to wear. I do want them to get broken in, without getting broken down. I try to use the appropriate grit for the job.
Marc
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Okay, I just looked at it again and you’re right. That doesn’t look like a torx. Other Benchmades have a torx screw for their thumb studs, even other emissary models.
Expidia said: The Emissary looked like a strange torx style to me also. But my standard torx set (made buy Benchmade though) fit the thumbstud.
I have that knife in the pic looks like the Assisted Arcane. I’m selling it though. I find the smooth scales aluminum scales not only very slippery but its black and very fine pencil point white sized chips appear. I touch them up with a tip of a black flair point but under the scales must be a white underlayment. It has a $260 MSRP and sells online for $221. It was the first Benchmark I bought retail. feel their quality control has been going downhill and why I switched to Chris Reeve brand. I’m selling a Griptilian, Arcane and an Osborne 940-1 CF. The grip and the Osborne both have that torx stud.
That why I started with the 200. I remember a comment from Organic I think . . . that said if you start with too low a grit you can cause micro chipping on premium steels as the metal is so hard.
I gotta say, since I didn’t care about the blade on the Emissary after I messed it up, I tried to save it by taking metal off near the heel to reduce the recurve and started with the 50 grit. Even stroking it very lightly it took about two minutes to raise a large burr. Probably also because I had already re-profiled it the first time around and it was hitting the apex instantly
On the blades Im keeping for my collection, I’d rather spend more time initially and prevent micro chipping. My problem now is its as you say it takes experience. Well, I learned how to do the kitchen knives easy enough because they were all the same style. But who can practice on premium steel folder.
Plus as others have said, folders are tougher to do because the blades are shorter, different styles to the blades and handles do to their varying shapes are tougher to clamp correctly. The Tormec adapte sure helps me.
But how do I get practice? Maybe another FL vacation for me, so I can swing by a certain afficianado of the WE system house?
How about I mail you one of them and you can do a youtube vid showing what it takes to do a folder with a premium blade haha.
I’ll have to search youtube again. All the vids on WE I’ve seen are mostly basic kitchen knives. Maybe there are ones that were done on expensive folders.
Actually, I’ve watched Clay doing a Youtube vid a month ago (from 4 years ago) on a Sebenza and he also did one on another Benchmade I have I think. He didn’t do it much different than he does the kitchen knives. I’ll have to re-watch them again.
Clay always makes it look super easy. I’m not saying that it’s difficult, I just know that there are a lot of little things that he’s doing that are not communicated in his relatively short videos. He almost always has the blade placement worked out before the camera gets rolling (an essential step for good looking bevels) and I think he uses a very light touch.
One way to avoid unnecessary wear on the medium grit stones while avoiding the deep scratches at the apex is to start off with the coarse stones but intentionally switch grits before reaching the apex. This method requires close monitoring of your sharpening progress with a USB scope. This can allow you to do the majority of the re-profile work with the 50 or 80 grit and then put a nice, chip-free apex on with the 200 or 400 grit stones. Another method is to intentionally file down the apex (also referred to as de-stressing the edge) when you get to the 400 or 600 and then put a new apex on with one of those stones. This method will eat a little more steel than the USB guided method.
Edge leading strokes VS edge following or trailing will also give different results with concern to edge chipping. I really think edge trailing strokes with coarse grit results in a greater chance for edge micro- chips.
Marc
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