2016 Pro Pack 1
- This topic has 39 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 12/24/2021 at 12:19 pm by
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I recently worked on two knives with a curved edge and was most pleased with the bevel I got when I clamped the knife (as Marc suggested) “roughly centered to the curved edge fore and aft so the imagined line is horizontal roughly parallel to the vise’s flat tips”.
One of those two knives had a factory edge bevel exactly as you described – I was removing Sharpie in the middle of the bevel and not reaching either the shoulder or the apex. Such a convex bevel was very likely done on the slack side of a belt grinder. If you pick a bevel angle that removes Sharpie in the center you’ll slightly re-profile the bevel but end up with one similar in width to the factory profile but re-profiled to match the “V” bevel of the Wicked Edge.
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Such a convex bevel was very likely done on the slack side of a belt grinder. If you pick a bevel angle that removes Sharpie in the center you’ll slightly re-profile the bevel but end up with one similar in width to the factory profile but re-profiled to match the “V” bevel of the Wicked Edge.
I concur with JimR’s assessment.
Marc
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I don’t “test for sharpness” per se. I check between grits with the ‘scope that I am actually working the apex and then take the appropriate number of strokes with the next grit after a double-check with the angle-cube. If it’s a routine sharpening, I take 10 – 20 strokes per grit (depending to some extent on blade length) and continue to a final grit I’ve already decided on. For a working knife, it may be 800 or 1000 grit. If it’s a knife I want to be exceptionally sharp, I’ll do 20 – 30 strokes per grit (or even more) and continue up to 3 micron dlf and finish with strops or the polishing wheel.
Please understand that the level of “sharpness” is influenced more by the bevel angle than the number of strokes applied. An edge sharpened to 17 dps will be substantially sharper than an edge sharpened with the same stoning protocol done at 20 dps.
BTW, if you are using full-length strokes, the length of the blade becomes irrelevant beyond about 6 inches.
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You need to get an Advanced Alignment Guide. That will make it easier to put your knives back at the same position in the clamp.
I rarely sharpen a knife more than 1000 grit anymore. And that will push-cut printer paper. I would use some paper towel or printer paper to test the sharpness of the blade while it is still in the clamp. But you have to make sure you have the burr removed first.
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Steve, it’s about a year since you first started this thread. Did you ever upgrade this PP1 model you began with? Which vise are you using now? Knowing that will help us understand why you’re having difficulties removing knives then re-clamping them back to the same position.
The alignment guide or the advanced Alignment Guide is useful to give you points of reference that you can record in a sharpening log to allow you to recreate that same clamping position. Just take some reference marks for the knife tip and heel or whatever points you choose to use when reclamping. I sometimes unpin the alignment guide and flip it around then re-pin it so I can take a position reference from the handle end of the clamped knife. With these known references you should easily be able to match that same position.
Some users place masking tape strips on the knife blade across where it sits down in the clamp. You can draw the outline of the vise jaws on the tape with a pen or marker. This marked outline will also help you realign the removed knife to the same original clamping position.
To test a knife for your sharpness progress while clamped I hold a small strip of newspaper or phone book paper between my finger tips of both hands about 1.5 to 2 inches apart. I pull the newspaper down onto the clamped knife edge. This paper pull test gives me an idea of my sharpening progress. By comparing the feel of how easily the paper cuts as you pull it down across the knife edge. I do this before and after each grit I use. Use the feel, rough and catching or grabbing at the very start compared to slips right through it when you’re finished. Also, the sound made as the paper cuts is a good clue of your sharpness progress. Like most things, you’ll figure out how you like to do it after doing it a few times. The best part is it’s a quick sharpness indicator you can use on the clamped knife. With experience you’ll easily recognize when your knife is sharp.
I’m not a proponent of microbevels. It makes a change to the blade profile I prefer not to have. I prefer to sharpen my knives up through 1500 grit. I follow this with 4µ/2µ strops. This gives me a good balance of sharpness and toothiness along with a pretty good bevel polish.
Happy Holiday to all!
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)@MarcH
Good catch about using painters tape to help put your blade back in the clamp at the same place, Marc. I forgot about that.
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Steve, if you confirm your guide rod set angles are still correct with your angle cube after reclamping the removed knife, making any necessary micro-angle adjustments, that’s all that really matters. Even if the knife is positioned slightly differently if the set angle is still the same you’ll be good to continue. Of course you’ll want to try to get the knife positioned close to the original placement, but exact isn’t required.
Just as a matter of technique, I double check my set angles with each grit change with my angle cube making any necessary fine angle adjustments. It’s also good practice to verify your guide rod adjusters are always staying tight and secure. Checking them at the start of each grit and again when finished with that grit gives you an indication whether they’re staying put or if you need to be more careful with your locking practice.
Remember, you should start each sharpening session by zeroing your angle cube on the sharpener base mount. Then use the cube like that for the entire sharpening process. If for any reason you move or reposition your W.E. sharpener during the sharpening session you should re-zero the angle cube and recheck your set angles. Everything is relative to the sharpener’s position.
All this little bit of extra attention to details becomes second nature over time and a regular part of your regimen. Consistency throughout the process, grit after grit is key to achieving good results.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)
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