Gary Crumb

[Gary Crumb]

Make sure to calibrate the cube to your base before starting as well. If the surface you have it sitting on is not perfectly level that can throw the apparent angles off as well. I’m sure you know that since you are zeroing to the beam, but I’ve been told it’s bad to assume. The surface you sharpen on doesn’t need to be perfectly level, but the cube must “see” where level is relative to.
If you are not re-profiling a blade, I would use the sharpie method to match what’s there. For me, it’s faster and in most cases, let’s you sharpen even lopsided blades while not having to remove too much material.

[Gary Crumb]

It does change, but since you are moving the apex to the center of the stones, it goes from being the wrong angle to a corrected one. The arms do not need to be readjusted to accomplish that since as you move the apex to it’s correct position (centered), the stones follow.
I’m not sure I’m helping. I can picture it in my head but can’t seem to explain it clearly…

[Gary Crumb]

Nice tip for the thinner blades! I’ll have to remember this one when my wave comes due for more than a touch up stropping.

[Gary Crumb]

Have you been pulling a burr, even at the tip? Also pay close attention to how far you place the knife in the vice in relation to the tip. If you are too far forward in the vice, the tip ends up with a different angle and it’s possible you might not be able to apex without removing a lot of metal. Most of my folders are at A or A.5 on the alignment guide.

[Gary Crumb]

not sure if the choseras are the same but I don’t count strokes. I go by appearance and feel/sound. For me, it works better because I am prone to losing count while I sharpen. :unsure:

[Gary Crumb]

When I say re-profile I mean I’m changing the bevel angle. Sometimes it’s drastic, sometimes subtle but always only to my own blades unless someone specifically asks.
I follow the same regimen you do, Phil, or at least close. I’m not sure if it’s a case of great minds think alike or we have the same level of OCD! 😀

[Gary Crumb]

Double reed…??? I played trombone and a tiny little bit on the guitar…not sure I’m familiar with double reeds.

[Gary Crumb]

For me, if you can see the difference happening while on one side, I’ll go ahead and swap even before I apex and work back and forth, not alternating, just keeping the bevel even, so I don’t have to remove more than necessary. Then it’s easier to get the burr and keep the bevels even and then work forward through the grits as normal.

I do plan on getting the 50/80’s for faster re-profiling when it’s needed, but the money is just too tight from the holidays…

[Gary Crumb]

It should, especially if you do a little stropping. I’ve always stropped even if I only went to 1000 so I’m not sure how comfortable it would be for shaving arm hair without stropping, but it should still work…
Of course, broken in stones will go a long way to help, as well.

[Gary Crumb]

I understood what you meant, since that is how I sharpen as well. If not identical techniques, they are very similar. I am still in the experimental stage as well so I also try other techniques as time allows, of course. In this way I can see what works best for me and my setup. So far, what seems to work best, and since we are talking about steel conservation, is apexing (pulling that first burr) with the lowest grit I start with. [For me it’s the 100’s if it’s a new, or new to my WEPS, since I don’t have the 60/80 stones. 600/800 if it’s trashed touch up and 1000/1200 for normal touch ups that have no major problems. Usually it’s just stropping though for upkeep and only going to the stones for those times that the strops don’t/can’t take care of the edge.] Once the first burr is consistent along the length, then it’s on to the higher grits with alternating strokes to both remove the scratches from the stone before and remove the burr as we go. Progress through the grits as needed and strop at the end. I’m also watching the edge for refinement as the grits progress. This is what works for me and it does not seem to be removing a huge amount of metal even after a few rounds on the beater testbed Gerber that I have reprofilled a few times. You cant even tell any change in the blade shape. I’m sure if I continue for a few years with this testing on the same knife I can get significant steel reduction in the blade, but for normal wear and tear, unless you’re abusing the blade daily, I do not see it as an issue.

[Gary Crumb]

My first thought when you brought up power buffer is a trip to the emergency room to get the sword removed! I first thought you meant something like a D/A buffer, like you’d use on your car or boat! lol
I am subscribed though, I want to see what others thoughts are on this as well…

[Gary Crumb]

…this group has tried a BUNCH of tune ups.

+1 to that Fred! We are nothing if not imaginative! 😀 I used 2 thicknesses of 3/4″ MDF left over from cutting speaker rings, so I have a nice round base with a little step in it. If I make another I would like a little more weight to it but this one does keep me reminded to stay light on the pressure!

[Gary Crumb]

No, there wasn’t an official response but people had ways they used to get around it. I just can’t find it now…it was a topic on the upgrade but I didn’t see it on quick search. Here it is. I just missed before.

[Gary Crumb]

That’s more like the customer service we’re all used to! You’ll find this is not a typical company in how much they believe in and stand behind the product and are always willing to help. And to be honest, the crew here on the forum are some of the most helpful and just great all around group I’ve ever had the privilege to meet on any forum. The whole Wicked Edge experience has been an unexpectedly pleasant one all around. This probably just sounds like fanboy stuff but I welcome any corrections if I’m wrong here…

[Gary Crumb]

Actually, it has been discussed but there is nothing available yet. I can’t find the topic though. Does anyone remember what topic it was?

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