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Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 21 total)
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  • #8614
    Bill Sutherland
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 31

    What do you fellas use for a base if you didn’t order one?

    #8616
    Fred Hermann
    Participant
    • Topics: 30
    • Replies: 188

    I’ve seen pics of guys with anything from junk plywood to custom painted. I think anything would work, but Clay mentioned heavier works better. I think it depends on how much room you’ve got and how hard you press when sharpening. I’m sure you’ll get a definitive answer here though, this group has tried a BUNCH of tune ups.

    #8617
    Gary Crumb
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 119

    …this group has tried a BUNCH of tune ups.

    +1 to that Fred! We are nothing if not imaginative! 😀 I used 2 thicknesses of 3/4″ MDF left over from cutting speaker rings, so I have a nice round base with a little step in it. If I make another I would like a little more weight to it but this one does keep me reminded to stay light on the pressure!

    #8620
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    Take a look at the vacuum base idea, I think it’s a good one.

    http://www.makeitsharp.com/blog/?p=76

    #8624
    Bill Sutherland
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 31

    I happen to have a base like that, how well does it work for those who have adopted this type of base?

    #8626
    Geocyclist
    Participant
    • Topics: 25
    • Replies: 524

    You should be able to a granite base made for around $40. Most granite yard will give you a 12″ x 12″ scrap for free, they normally charge about $10 per linear foot to cut and finish the edge.

    #8635
    Bill Sutherland
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 31

    Since I have a vacuum base I wondered if anyone out there had tried that setup. Looks pretty slick from the pictures.

    #9012
    blacksheep25
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 68

    Fairly heavy cutting board from the Ross Store; the thinner one was nice because it had rubber feet, but wasn’t heavy enough.

    #9014
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Since I have a vacuum base I wondered if anyone out there had tried that setup. Looks pretty slick from the pictures.

    I followed those instructions exactly and now that’s all I use! I absolutely love it…. I especially love being able to tilt my knife toward me while I’m working on it 🙂

    #9018
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    Take a look at the vacuum base idea, I think it’s a good one.

    http://www.makeitsharp.com/blog/?p=76%5B/quote%5D

    Curtis.. Have you used this method? Razoredgeknives.. Sounds like you have and do use it.

    What do you use as a reference for the angle cube to set the arm angles properly?

    If you change the tilt during a session and have to reset the angles for a different set of stones.. doesn’t that screw things up.. at least when trying to get to a tenth of a degree (or limit of the cube’s accuracy)?
    I have found that changing the cube’s orientation in any axis tends to give me inaccuracies. Clay even talked about using a square to keep the cube perpindicular to the base to avoid this kind of thing.
    Just curious.

    Phil

    #9019
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    Take a look at the vacuum base idea, I think it’s a good one.

    http://www.makeitsharp.com/blog/?p=76%5B/quote%5D

    Curtis.. Have you used this method? Razoredgeknives.. Sounds like you have and do use it.

    What do you use as a reference for the angle cube to set the arm angles properly?

    If you change the tilt during a session and have to reset the angles for a different set of stones.. doesn’t that screw things up.. at least when trying to get to a tenth of a degree (or limit of the cube’s accuracy)?
    I have found that changing the cube’s orientation in any axis tends to give me inaccuracies. Clay even talked about using a square to keep the cube (perpindicular to the base) to avoid this kind of thing.
    Just curious.

    Phil

    #9021
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    I mounted a Field and Sport Model to one, so didn’t use the angle cube.

    #9022
    Bill Sutherland
    Participant
    • Topics: 9
    • Replies: 31

    I just have used the angle bar to reference to zero and then when the paddles register 17 degrees it doesn’t matter where the WE is rotated because all the reference points are moving in conjunction with each other.

    #9024
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    It does matter because the angle cube does not read the same in all orientations. I have not seen this to be a large discsrepancy, but certainly a few tenths and up to 3 or four tenths of a degree… this just from not lining up the cube vertically the same form measurement to measurement. Try affixing the cube to one of the diamond paddles, then twist it about its horizontal axis so it is not lined up with the sides of the vise. What ahppens to the indicated angle? On my particualr angle cube, it changes.

    In theory it should make no difference, you are measuring angles relative to the base bar, but the angle cube does not obey theory 100%.

    Of course the differences are not huge and maybe it does not matter to you, but I am hoping someone has a solution that will work with the inadequacies of the cube… because,

    I have one of these Panavise bases. I have not used it because I have a method that works well for me…and because of the angle measuring concern. I can see how it could come in handy at some point though. If I could get another WEPS vise without anything else and attach it to the Panavise for those occasions, that would be cool.
    I still am concerned about the angle measurement with the cube though.

    Phil

    #9038
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Take a look at the vacuum base idea, I think it’s a good one.

    http://www.makeitsharp.com/blog/?p=76%5B/quote%5D

    Curtis.. Have you used this method? Razoredgeknives.. Sounds like you have and do use it.

    What do you use as a reference for the angle cube to set the arm angles properly?

    If you change the tilt during a session and have to reset the angles for a different set of stones.. doesn’t that screw things up.. at least when trying to get to a tenth of a degree (or limit of the cube’s accuracy)?
    I have found that changing the cube’s orientation in any axis tends to give me inaccuracies. Clay even talked about using a square to keep the cube (perpindicular to the base) to avoid this kind of thing.
    Just curious.

    Phil

    I have found that it doesn’t make any noticeable difference. I actually tested it by varying the angle by a few degrees (forward to back), re-zeroing the angle cube, and checking my angle. It may have changed .05 but that’s it.

    I don’t use the angle cube in between each diamond stone, just in between the diamond stones and my choseras, or in between my choseras and my strops.

    I just eye ball the position of the vise (front to back) and then set the side to side angle with my angle cube. As seen in the photo below. I really don’t believe it’s any concern whatsoever.

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