Victor
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
05/06/2016 at 11:51 am #33925
Peck drilling is new term for me..learn something new everyday! I get the picture!
Basic skills such as drilling appears to be simple…truth of the matter is – the more your think you know…the more you realized how little you really know!
05/05/2016 at 10:54 am #33917Josh, I supposed you did not consult with your Machinist friend on how to drill a concentric hole doing the Machinist way?
1 user thanked author for this post.
05/04/2016 at 11:58 am #33908The steel is so hard, it took more than 100 firm strokes with a relatively neww 400 grit stone, trying to flatten the 2″ of edge back to a workable profile. I spent about two hours on it last night and expect to spend another two today. If I was charging a paying customer, I’d have to make about $120 on the job.
I started out at 15 dps and proceeded with my 400s, going edge-leading. All was going well, but extremely slow and I momentarily lapsed into a scrubbing motion. I caught myself within a dozen strokes or so and on inspection with the ‘scope, found a dozen or more deep chips in the edge which I know had not been there before. Add another two hours and increase the angle to 17 dps. Still a chip here and there – where I know I’ve applied to much pressure. Cleaned it up as well as I could, then polished the 17 dps to 3mu, even with a few very small chips showing. Then applied a 20 dps microbevel using 1000 grit and 9 mu film. Then I found that I had removed enough edge that the concave at the heel had returned. The knife is still not done. I’m concluding that the blade (Zwillig Henckels) which is labeled “ice hardened” stainless, has probably been hardened, but not tempered. It’s harder than hell and brittle as hell, too. Interesting, the dull edge showed no sign of chipping until I closed the included angle. The chipping seems to happen primarily with edge-trailing strokes and to some degree with high pressure. The clue for me should have been how hard it was to flatten the edge.
Right on! Quality work takes efforts!
It was not a knife! Your effort reminded me on one particular job I was involved in back in my past life as a Journeyman ToolMaker!
Work involved 95% flatness restoration on an eight inch diameter stellite clad gate valve gate sealing surface…resulted warpage, after exposure to high cycle repeated super heated condition…work involved 3 Journeyman Toolmaker…three 8 hrs. shifts around the clock….first roughed out on surface grinder….then begin the tedious hand work…combination of carbide hand scrapper + assortment of w/d emery progression…blue check flatness % using calibrated surface plate…repeat…followed with repeat after repeats – got the point?….FIVE days later…independent Inspector verified, bought off 95% flatness verification – on one side of gate….then…same work needed to repeat on the other side of stellite clad gate…..
Quality not only take skill – it also takes time…..
On this particular example’s primary bevel, took me close to 40 hours getting to the mirror, but I prefer secondary toothy, little time getting there:
2 users thanked author for this post.
05/03/2016 at 1:10 pm #33900This posting is rather philosophical based on general observations – so please don’t take it as an insult on anyone!
First off, most people appears to seeing $$ signs after having acquiring WE or any sharpening tools for that matter – as witnessed on loads of postings among forums and rather piles of lackluster ytube vids.
Unfortunately, most people don’t appreciated the efforts or how sharp is sharp. Beside, knife sharpening and fine knife collection/appreciation is but a tiny minority.
Unlike the traditional cast system of Japan, even dwindle to modern day – where extreme appreciation into the minuscule is ever present, not saying its not present in other cultures but Japan takes it to another level….
Having much similarity to this thread – sharpening and cost; where in Japan, there exist a dedicated few of minority Togishi – where in old/modern Japan, only a few obtained that honored title, it is only through decades of apprenticeship when accepted, tutor under a reputable Togishi, as well as competitions with other up and coming talented hopefuls…..there in the competitive events, shown their craft….end results painstakingly by hand – then recognized with the honored elvsive 1st place title…..it is thru Togishi, as in the past, whom, Samurai warriors or today’s aficionado depend on to bring true meaning of life onto their blades……
Even today…when and if a Togishi, agrees for the undertaking of bringing life onto a blade….monetary will never be spoken, rather, a deep humble bow and asked humbly “do your best to bring life onto my blade!”….leave and join many others ahead of you, depends of these few notable Togishi…..waiting patiently….in many cases – years! But rest assure….when finally in hand…it will be work of art, done by a Master Togishi!
As an example, if the maker still exist in the future…since I don’t use these knives…I will only trust the maker to perform the resharpening task….
2 users thanked author for this post.
04/09/2016 at 11:42 am #33135Rockstead’s warning is on ceramic plate.
Rockstead’s RHc reading on clad ZDP can vary from their claimed 67 RHc, on my SHIN – 67.2, TEI – 67.9 and the SHUN – 66.6. My past life’s experience concur – Heat treat end results can vary, duration and temperature can be set accurately, but target RHc can be elusive. All three RHc are at an elevated level, I will never test their claim or question the insane sharpness retention. One thing for sure, Rockstead’s attention to detail is rather impressive…on SHUN’s pocket clip – specification stated 50 RHc.
Happen to have this on hand:
Some people can be satisfied having one. I chose the three after careful consideration on each one’s attributes. All nice but rather impractical…practically in term of user to duplicate factory sharpness….
04/08/2016 at 11:54 am #33107That is so funny!
Here I am thinking along….Rockstead’s warning on its owner’s paper work, not to use Rockstead to cut on a ceramic plate, it will cut it – but edge will also suffer the consequence…devil side in me…to be honest….tempted…level head side…..NAaaaa:
04/03/2016 at 4:09 pm #32951Finally had time to watch your very informative vid!
Right on, Cliff!
1 user thanked author for this post.
03/23/2016 at 10:29 am #32411I understand what you are saying…..Pumba over in C5 has an amazing built, pm him several times, truly a humble man…David Farmer also not very active as before….recently he posted on his new race car built in Autocrossing/Roadracing subforum….explaining why he post less…one of his three comments was: everyone thinks he knows everything….Well…my take on that is – that is common among all forums…regardless of subject matter…human nature at its best…..
However, although many of us are not fortunate enough to have a higher education….few gifted inquisitive minds historically help pushed the envelope of performance that a commoner like myself can appreciate.
Curious Bill, I tried to look you up on a couple of Corvette books I read….tried to find you among the many involved in the Corvette’s development team…I am not very involve in C5 sub forum…so don’t track many of your past threads….just a few on shining up brake rotors and such….so….
Your inquisitive mind here posted many interesting aspects…keep up the enthusiasm, Bill – we are like minds here!
03/21/2016 at 9:46 am #32331You are not very active in C5 forum anymore but nice to see you back here Bill.
Certainly happy to see you found and enjoying your new WE hobby with like minds!
1 user thanked author for this post.
03/18/2016 at 12:33 pm #32183Resurrecting a theme… From article: Paper Cut: Testing Blade Sharpness at http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/hunting/2014/08/paper-cut-testing-blade-sharpness?src=SOC&dom=fb Using newspaper test The Bite, The Glide and The Fillet. And, of course, there’s always these: ~~~~ (Off Topic) Nova’s Emperor’s Ghost Army (http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/ancient/emperors-ghost-army.html) has some intesting segments on forged “sharp” things…. Watched it after the latest episode of “Forged In Fire”. Good day, everyone. For Now…
My hobbies are far and wide, I am active in many forums…noticed you pop up scarcely in the “Green” forum….one commonality….in all forums….there is a guy like you, my Man…..very few posting….but when you do….I listen!
Mahalo!
Victor
02/28/2016 at 11:21 am #31739Here is I think quantifiably and undeniably the final word on “Razor Sharp” <iframe src=”https://www.youtube.com/embed/TtBliK5ugDI?feature=oembed” width=”670″ height=”377″ frameborder=”0″ allowfullscreen=”allowfullscreen”></iframe>
Most of us understand it is difficult to sharpen free hand and fortunate for us to have systems such as WE for a quick aid. Free hand skill takes time to develop – with proper tutelage, as witness, even today with the rare Togishi trade in Japan.
This thread is interesting to say the least, which brings me back to the Samurai days in old Japan. I found it interesting after Bladesmith’s work was done, he hand the blade to a Togishi to bring out true life for his blade. After Togishi’s work was done, to verify sharpness, it was used in one skilled stroke and rated as a one, two or three man blade! The higher the number of man, the more value….not in a good position to be any kind of prisoner in those days, where it was the source for human specimen.
Ancient high valued, gleaming free hand mirror’ed blades through the combined efforts by Master Bladesmith & Togishi exits today. Seeing one in person gives me chicken skin!
2 users thanked author for this post.
02/27/2016 at 11:50 am #31716Paper cutting tricks?
No point I am trying to make, but….
But I have not seen anyone can duplicate the original sharpness other than spend $60 and send it back to Japan for resharpen! Hehe
1 user thanked author for this post.
02/18/2016 at 10:43 am #31362And I have GOT to get some of those stop collars! Where do you get them from? I would need the .375″ size though…
Josh you know me, Im the bargain basement Baron. I took a 50 cent nylon sleeve from the hardware and tapped the threads for a nylon screw to be inserted. Works! The 2 things I like about this vise concept is first it can be raised to change to increase the arc of the sweet spot….and the independantly adjustable vise jaws allow for different tapered blade profiles to be locked in. A side bonus is you can adjust the vertical plumb of the blade while its clamped by loosening one side and tightening the other. The only design flaw Id change if doing again would be to stack the adjustment screws vertically down the middle instead of staggering them side to side(on their respective sides), it tends to twist the vise jaws a bit wonky.
You are resourceful as usual, my friend!
If the two bottom jacking screws are done inline, certainly as you already realized, will eliminate the unpleasant twist.
If I may suggest, if it is not already done, radius the end of the jacking screws will also eliminate marring the opposite jacking flat!?
Nice job!
1 user thanked author for this post.
02/15/2016 at 11:16 am #31271Josh,
Your friend that made your custom rod used commercial available “drill rod”?
Your custom rod’s threaded portion, appears to have used separate threaded stud…after drill rod’s end drilled/taped…short length stud threaded into end?
Standard commercial precision oil quenched tool steel drill rod comes in 3′ length, so…in essence…your limit to rod length as well as paddle stroke to avoid bump hiccup is 3’….
However, there is work involved in making two end bushing to remain concentric…if your friend is a Machinist, then, should be a piece of cake, since Journeyman Machinist are rarely self taught…certainly is a bit more involve to pursue precision…..
Your response to “tcmeyer” regarding variation in drill bit runout among bits….If I may….sometimes, problem lays within the drill chuck
If hand drill drill motor is not of high quality or was misused at some point in time, jaws within chuck will not engage drill bit properly….in that event, it helps to rotate drill bit shank slightly to re-position, hand tight, recheck several times till satisfied, before using chuck key….
02/14/2016 at 12:16 pm #31248Cliff, on small quantity raw material stock such as Delrin, since both of us have to pay the “paradise” tax penalty, shipping is nearly same for both of us, I normally go Amazon Prime.
If you are interested in thermoplastic, beside Delrin, another alternative is UHMW. It has great attributes as well – But……in light of the grit environment….I personally would make and use replaceable press fit precision machined PH wear bushing at both ends of paddle.
Further, if that is the route chosen, I would personally much prefer, for durability in terms of more dimensional stability/wear factor, I would choose T6 along with PB machined bushings at both ends.
Just a for instance, checked against local metal outlets and the web, this dimensional correct and stable T6 from Amazon with free Prime Shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H9JI66/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought two, one as an extra tool arm and the one, top shelf, way in the background will be used for future custom cabinet frame mount tool post holder:
Future two sets of tool holder for both vertical:
And..horizontal position:
So, if skill set and money is not the object…..basically, sky is the only limit….
2 users thanked author for this post.
-
AuthorPosts