Steven Pinson

[Steven Pinson]

Daug, I sent you a PM

[Steven Pinson]

An endoscope (or recording microscope) works wonders in this department, allowing a standard match to take place (i.e. a .5mm pencil lead) in comparison to the bevel. Just an FYI

This post makes little sense, anyway, a “recording microscope” is not really a good recommendation when starting out. A simple loupe/magnifier would be more beneficial. Burr detection and marking the edge with a Sharpie is “tried and true” across many methods of sharpening.

Just an FYI. B)

(I can’t bring myself to call it an endoscope.) :sick: :ohmy:

Ok I will give the sharpie a try tonight when I get home from work and see. Then watch for the burr and try to progress from there. Thanks everyone for the help Im sure I am going to have more questions hope youall dont get tired of my questions.

I think you got the idea… keep us posted on how it goes![/quote]

I guess ignorance is bliss in your case. Another FYI just for you.

[Steven Pinson]

An endoscope (or recording microscope) works wonders in this department, allowing a standard match to take place (i.e. a .5mm pencil lead) in comparison to the bevel. Just an FYI

[Steven Pinson]

This is where magnification is your true friend. It is up to the person driving the stones to know when to burr or not to burr. I personally always adhere to the “Save the metal club rules” just to be safe.

[Steven Pinson]

A micro bevel is a application type item. You first really have to know what you are going to do with it. A couple of questions would be: Do I want to push cut? Do I want to slice? or do I want a show blade?

Also, are you putting this micro on a LH or RH knife? A X/Y split? or just a symetrical folder? Are you really wanting a convex edge for the application or a true micro?

All of these things make up and go into the application of the edge. The idea is to get as small of an edge as possible that will do the work (keep all the steel you can).

If you just want a micro to put one on your edge, just pick an angle number higher than your secondary or primary bevel (i.e. 22 Deg gets a ten stroke 5k stone at 25 Deg). Use a scope to tell how the steel reacts, and then go from there (watch for chipping, rolling, and plastic deformation).

Micros are nice on some knives and will work well … they also can ruin your last thirty minutes of work.

[Steven Pinson]

Once you switch over to real waterstones you will not go back (IMHO).

[Steven Pinson]

Listen to Wayne, he knows. 🙂

[Steven Pinson]

If you have the ability to make a short video of your sharpening and set-up technique I am sure the forum will help out. A picture is worth a thousand words (at times).

[Steven Pinson]

Great proofs HM!

Better, maybe? But, better than what?

IMHO that is still a very rough edge definition (especially if a high end knife), even if the sharpener took their time. If I saw that on a Masamoto I would have to go change my underware.

[Steven Pinson]

I use an endoscope with 200x and find it to be more than adequate for edges.

[Steven Pinson]

Hey HM,

Great shots!

I preach this exact subject all the time (hand vs. belt). It is amazing the friction you get from people on this subject.

[Steven Pinson]

Hey DFS! See your PM … in your PM box

[Steven Pinson]

Interesting thing about the Internet. You get one person that is respected say something, then everybody starts saying the same thing over and over. Yes the common wisdom seems to be that you “NEED” an entire set of stones from the same brand/line or no one can get good results.

Phil you are all over it. :woohoo: The “ART” of sharpening.

[Steven Pinson]

So the first question I have (which, as you say, Phil, may not get much input) is regarding the Naniwa Super Stone…. Tom mentions Chosera stones form a paste while Shaptons form a swarf. Paste – good…. Swarf – bad. Which, if either, do the Naniwas form?

Ken

Nania SS will form a paste or will not form a paste depending on how “YOU” use them. They are a splash and go stone. Keep them wet and they will provide a nice paste base that will polish very well. Let them dry as you use them, and they will start to cut and impinge.

I have used the SS line for quite a while now and for the cost/performance they are very tough to beat.

[Steven Pinson]

Yes, you can stitch up a sword in the WE … it is painful though. Most of the people that actually want a sword sharpened bought their item at the flea market and the steel is shady at best. Those that buy a real Japanese sword (or any real item) tend to have them hand sharpened. Hand sharpening a sword is painful as well and many after they see the cost say: Ummmm, OK … I will get back with you.

A typical Wakizashi (small or short sword) is around $150.00 for me to do it by hand and is easily a six to eight hour job with hand stones.

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