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Nano or roo?

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Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
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  • #5774
    Robert Borowski
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 23

    I need a new strop for my 0.125 diamond spray. Interested in the kangaroo leather or the nano cloth. Looking for suggestions?

    #5775
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    It seems like the default answer is “It depends…” and this case is no exception. It depends on what you’re hoping to accomplish. The roo will give you a much smoother, more polished bevel, so if that’s what you’re after, then it’s the right choice, hands down. If you specifically want .125um micro-teeth at the edge, then you would be better off with the nano-cloth.

    I need a new strop for my 0.125 diamond spray. Interested in the kangaroo leather or the nano cloth. Looking for suggestions?

    -Clay

    #5778
    Robert Borowski
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 23

    It seems like the default answer is “It depends…” and this case is no exception. It depends on what you’re hoping to accomplish. The roo will give you a much smoother, more polished bevel, so if that’s what you’re after, then it’s the right choice, hands down. If you specifically want .125um micro-teeth at the edge, then you would be better off with the nano-cloth.

    Thanks Clay! Good question one I am not sure I can decide ha!. I like a toothy edge at the apex but I want the beautiful mirror polish on the bevel as well. Is that possible with the nano cloths?

    #5779
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    You might try getting a super polished bevel with the roo strops and then adding in a nearly invisible micro-bevel, either with the nano-cloth strops and your choice of abrasives or with the Micro-Fine ceramics. That’s what I’m doing with my carry knives because it’s important for me to be able to show off a beautiful and hyper-aggressive edge and still be able to use it for everyday tasks. I use my knife constantly and people always want to check out the kind of edge I have on it.

    It seems like the default answer is “It depends…” and this case is no exception. It depends on what you’re hoping to accomplish. The roo will give you a much smoother, more polished bevel, so if that’s what you’re after, then it’s the right choice, hands down. If you specifically want .125um micro-teeth at the edge, then you would be better off with the nano-cloth.

    Thanks Clay! Good question one I am not sure I can decide ha!. I like a toothy edge at the apex but I want the beautiful mirror polish on the bevel as well. Is that possible with the nano cloths?[/quote]

    -Clay

    #5785
    Robert Borowski
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 23

    Perfect solution bc I already own the micro fine ceramics! great thought!

    #5858
    Tom Whittington
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 159

    I think I’m going to start experimenting with micro-bevels and try to polish up my Hogue carry knife. I like the toothy edge of the stones for all around cutting. Thus far I only have the contents of the Pro Pack 1 to work with, so I might have to take a couple of very light strokes with the 1000 stone to accomplish this.

    #5859
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    I think that’s a great approach, especially since your stones are already broken in. I bet the results are really nice.

    I think I’m going to start experimenting with micro-bevels and try to polish up my Hogue carry knife. I like the toothy edge of the stones for all around cutting. Thus far I only have the contents of the Pro Pack 1 to work with, so I might have to take a couple of very light strokes with the 1000 stone to accomplish this.

    -Clay

    #5874
    Tom Whittington
    Participant
    • Topics: 4
    • Replies: 159

    Clay,

    While we’re on the topic of micro bevels, is there any quick rule of thumb you could share? Something like “3 to 5 degrees works well” or any general guideline. In this case I’m sticking with the factory grind, 22 degrees per side, and want to put that micro bevel on for somewhat heavy duty cutting to last.

    #5875
    Todd Peters
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 15

    I second the inquiry for a “quick rule of thumb” on a micro bevel.

    Clay,

    While we’re on the topic of micro bevels, is there any quick rule of thumb you could share? Something like “3 to 5 degrees works well” or any general guideline. In this case I’m sticking with the factory grind, 22 degrees per side, and want to put that micro bevel on for somewhat heavy duty cutting to last.

    #5878
    Steven Pinson
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 49

    A micro bevel is a application type item. You first really have to know what you are going to do with it. A couple of questions would be: Do I want to push cut? Do I want to slice? or do I want a show blade?

    Also, are you putting this micro on a LH or RH knife? A X/Y split? or just a symetrical folder? Are you really wanting a convex edge for the application or a true micro?

    All of these things make up and go into the application of the edge. The idea is to get as small of an edge as possible that will do the work (keep all the steel you can).

    If you just want a micro to put one on your edge, just pick an angle number higher than your secondary or primary bevel (i.e. 22 Deg gets a ten stroke 5k stone at 25 Deg). Use a scope to tell how the steel reacts, and then go from there (watch for chipping, rolling, and plastic deformation).

    Micros are nice on some knives and will work well … they also can ruin your last thirty minutes of work.

    #5879
    Wayne Nicklin
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 39

    I was watching a video by John Brodai last week and he was taking about micro bevels. This guy has studied with some of the great masters of Japan. The knife sharpeners of Japan have a very simple approach to micro bevels. They put a few strokes on one side only and a great angle I.e. 40-45 degrees about the width of half a human hair.

    #5886
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    I tend to approach micro-bevel angle selection as an iterative process. I generally will take a given knife to an angle a few degrees lower than what I expect the metal to support for the way I plan on using it e.g. I think my CPM154 blade will hold at twenty degrees per side for work around the office, so I take it down to 16 degrees as a starting point. I use it that way until it gets dull. I then add a micro-bevel 2-3 degrees wider and use it again until it gets dull. If it got dull too quickly, I’ll got out another degree or two and re-make the micro-bevel. If I was satisfied with the durability then I just touch it back up and keep using it. I generally maintain the knife by stropping it at the original primary bevel for as long as that continues to restore the edge, which will turn it fairly quickly into a convex edge. Periodically I’ll go back and refresh the micro-bevel with a few strokes of a stone, especially if I want to have some micro-teeth of some particular size.

    -Clay

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