R. Jeffrey Coates

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

Does anyone thin the knife? I have messed around thinning the back bevel to about 16* to 18* per side depending on the knife. Then the primary bevel is set to 20*.  Some of my knives are vintage and before I acquired them they were sharpened so much that the blades need to be thinned so they will take the edge and not feel dull.

Any thoughts?

 

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

when you use the sharpmaker – I assume you are using the fine stones (white) ?

thanks

 

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

I am not a big Global fan. This is because for me, the metal scales (handle) are slippery. Having said that, I have a few of them. There is one I really like: the GS-58. It is a really sweet little prep knife that gets laser sharp on my WE II.

I got it as a beat up display knife from a cooking store. It was beat to death with bad chips from the knife bar it was displayed on and it was “butter knife” sharp: So it was really an experiment to see what I could do.

Reset back the edge (and back bevel) to 12* to grind out chips. started at 200 but progressed to 400 as the 200 was removing too much steel. I decided to go with more strokes removing less metal as it afforded more control. Many strokes later, to the 600. Worked that until I achieved a bur was on each side.

Then polished by the following progression 800, 1000, 1200, 1600, 1.4 mic ceramic, 0.6 mic ceramic.

Reset to 14* for the edge. A few light passes starting at 800 then followed the same progression. each with light pressure and few (about 25) passes per side.

Done.

NOW  should I strop? and if so what angle?        I have 5mic and 3.5mic leather strops available.  My thoughts are NO as the strops are more course than my micro fine ceramics. BUT with the strop I could get the convex edge that is Global’s trademark.

I think a ceramic hone (rod) would do the same thing. I am a little concerned that the edge will not hold up and that if it is “over finished” it will lose the tactile toothy feel that I like when cutting herbs & vegies. To me that little toothiness creates a perceived sharpness that is unadailable with a polished edge.

 

Thoughts?

Thanks.

 

 

 

 

display kni reset the edge

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

SUPER – thanks.

Sorry for the delay in reply but work got in the way!

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

WOW !!! Very nice mods. I too would be interested in buying these mods.

Thanks for sharing them.

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

RE: rotating stones:
:unsure: :ohmy:
I marked all my stones at each end of the handle. I marked them as “1A” “1B” “2A” and “2B” I sharpen my knife using the “1” side up or down and the “A” either on the left or right. So, for example, On the first knife ” 1A” is in the top left, second knife it is bottom left, third knife top right and fourth knife bottom left. Hopefully this helps compensate for differences between my right-hand and left-hand technique as well as my upstroke and down stroke technique.

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

Got it Darrell. … “practiced” on you !

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

Fred what a wonderful idea. I had no idea I/we could give karma points – or I certainly would have done it. When I have received a karma point I always go back and see what I did right so I can keep doing it.

Thanks for the idea.

Finally, if you “teach me something” – – how and where to find the button to give karma points ……… I will then give you my first for teaching me how to do it !

Have a great “short- post-holiday week B)

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

I’m not an engineer but it would seem that to prevent the water from migrating through the stone you would need to seal all sides, even the side being used to sharpen. Two initial questions:

1. would the sealant change the property of the stone

2. if not #1 above, would it stand up to the abrading with the stone?

I used to use an old epoxy that would fit almost everything: MARINE TEX. It would cure under water, hot or cold. oil proof too. I have seen it used to “glue’ a cracked engine block together – through oil residue. then sanded and drilled and tapped. It’s good stuff.

If you are old like me you might remember seeing the shelf demo in your old hardware store . A soda bottle glued to wood, a golf ball glued to the top of the bottle and a hinge glued to the bottle.

I bet a little bit of that would hold the stones to the paddles.

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

:woohoo: The 3M video about the tape was AMAZING.

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

I have had success using magnetic tape cut to whatever size is needed.

I am not sure what the proper name is but it is that flexible stuff like on the back of business cards that stick to the refrigerator. Know what I mean?

Anyway I cut that stuff to fit. It’s soft enough to give a little so there is a good grip.

Whatever you use, it should be softer than the blade so it does not scratch the blade.

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

Why does the 1600 seem to give so many people fits? I thought there was no breakin with ceramics. So why are people lapping them?

The more I read the more I realize how little I know. My learning curve is starting to look like a a diagonal line going from the upper left corner to the lower right. But it is still fun . . . and sometimes I get to cut myself in the process (so my learning curve is really a RED line.) :ohmy:

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

So, if I am understanding this, the stones, without lapping, are “out of sequence?

Why so? and why not lap them all and then get them in the “proper” order?

Confusing to me a little bit . . I guess I’m just “not that sharp!” 😉

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

When I clean my ceramic stones i put some cleanser on a piece of glass which is laying horizontal … add a little water and move in a circular motion. Sort of like truing a stone. It works well.

[R. Jeffrey Coates]

I do that while driving. ….. I always spill my coffee in the car! Now I can stab myself too :woohoo:

BTW: Can you do serrated knives on that mug too?

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