Gazillion
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06/10/2018 at 11:28 am #46552
Gazillion, I have Gen 3 Pro also, Chicago Cutlery Chefs knife. Attached are my settings. IMO this knife will not support an angle that acute. I once tried at 18 deg, blade chipped very easily i now sharpen at 22 deg.
Not to de-rail and I realize this is 6 months old but is that an app of some kind you use to track your knives? That’s pretty sweet. Thanks
….Attached are my settings….
Pink, I really like the format of the notes/settings attachment you included. Is that using One Note or another app? George
Good afternoon,
I can tell you guys what I’ve done. I use an iPhone.
1. Create a new contact
2. Take a picture of the knife mounted in your WEPS, use that picture as the new contacts picture
3. Use the custom settings within contacts to create any fields and track any information about a specific knife
Does that make sense?
EDIT: I just remembered I do this on my MacBook Pro because it lets me create the custom fields.
Let me know if you have questions, I’m bored today.
File attached.
Derek
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by Gazillion.
- This reply was modified 6 years, 7 months ago by Gazillion.
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01/29/2018 at 6:15 pm #4489101/26/2018 at 4:53 pm #44830Good afternoon Marc,
Thank you for the update. I think what you’ve made me is the perfect Rack-it for the space I’ve allocated. I’m eager to receive my Rack-it.
I’ll update this post with a picture when it arrives.
Derek
Sorry Gazillion, that was the last 2 Drawer base I can find in the on-line market place. I did order one from a reseller but when I got it, they had an inventory mix-up they didn’t know about and they sent the three drawer base. I immediately reordered thinking it was just an oversight. They cancelled my second order when they realized they didn’t have any more 2 drawers available and their inventory had been mislabeled. I did a thorough web search and no one handles the 2 drawers any longer, at this time. There are Three Drawer Bases available. They are pretty large. Probably on the order of rack space for 42 to 48 stones. I made a rack with this same size 3 drawer base to store 56 stones, (28 pairs), without a problem. So that base is pretty large.
01/25/2018 at 3:02 pm #44822Good afternoon MarcH,
If drawers are available for my Rack-it I’d really appreciate you including them. The drawers look very handy.
Derek
Here’s Forum Member Doug Thompson’s finished rack. He has the last 2 drawer base I’ve been able to get. I only have the larger 3 drawer bases left. Enjoy your Rack-It
01/25/2018 at 2:44 pm #44821Good afternoon sksharp & MarcH,
Thank you for taking the time to further explain and help me understand what I’m doing, really, what I should be doing with my WEPS.
I’ve read what you’ve written a couple of times, you’ve helped me see the view from 30,000 feet. Now I’m able to move forward.
Thank you.
Derek
Hello Gazillion, I have to profile pretty much every knife I do for the first time. The sharpening angles when done by hand on a belt grinder or however most of the bigger manufacturers do it leave quite a bit to be desired. Unless a knife has seen the WE before, I have to profile the blade even if I’m matching existing bevel most of the time. This is not the same as re-profiling as most people think of it but in my mind until the angle is consistent the length of the blade it’s not profiled yet.
Derek for you and our other new WEPS users, I’d like to elaborate and clarify what My friend SKSharp wrote. All knives, even expensive knives and very well cared for, well treated and well sharpened knives, lack the even precise angled bevels that our fixed angle WEPS sharpeners apply to a knife. Even one of these knives that was treated with the up most care, when clamped in our WE and sharpened to it’s exact same previously sharpened bevel angle or even exact same factory ground angle, will get a straighter, more even, more precise bevel angle sharpened with the WE, then it ever had. This difference is because the WEPS is a fixed angle sharpening device. This corrective change made to the knife’s edge, done this first time it’s sharpened with the WE is what SKSHarp is referring to as “profiling the knife”. The first time any knife is sharpened with the WE even at it’s exact same angle as it was previously sharpened it will be “profiled” by the WE, because it’s precision is so exacting. After the first time that knife is done on with a WE, each subsequent sharpenings are in reality a touch up because the knife is sharpened at the exact same profile that was initially set the first time it was sharpened on the WE. So it’s generally, relatively quick and easy to sharpen. In using SKSharp’s terminology, “Reprofiling” is the term he’s used when the bevel angle and the shape of the knife’s cutting edge is changed from what it started with to something completely different. This requires more time, effort and more steel removal. This reprofiling is a conscious planned effort to change the shape, profile and/or the bevel angle from the existing shape, the existing profile, and/or existing bevel angle. Profiling is an alignment of the existing edge to Wicked Edge’s accuracy and precision. Reprofiling is a change to the existing profile.
01/23/2018 at 7:24 am #44783Good morning MarchH,
I apologize for my late response. I’m growing accustomed to navigating the forum and keeping up with the conversations to which I’m a participant.
Thank you for the square cam follower advice. I’m going to do this because I’ve been having issues for some time and was completely unaware of this solution.
Derek
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01/22/2018 at 12:49 pm #44770Good afternoon Anarchy84,
I’ve read your response several times and am having trouble visualizing this in my minds eye. I really need to understand your explanation because I’m having issues finding the sweet spot.
In step 3 you said to rest the stone against the flat portion of the blade. Are you saying to rest the stone against the part of the blade that is marked blade (the center of the blade?) in the attached picture?
I have another question as well: what do I do if the stone won’t reach the blade when the stone is at the bottom of the guide rod?
I’d really appreciate your help.
‘Derek
Greetings, airborne! As a relatively new user myself, I feel your pain in finding informative videos. There are plenty of videos showing people sharpening a knife, but very few that show the nuances of the system itself. As far as finding the sweet spot, this is what I do: 1. Put the knife in the clamp, rest it on the depth key, but do not clamp it down. 2. Put a fine grit stone on the guide rod. 3. Let the stone go all the way down to the bottom of the guide rod and then rest the stone against the flat portion of the blade. 4. Using your thumb (or a piece of tape), note the exact location where the stone is touching the blade. 5. Move the stone along the blade and watch how the spot marked by your thumb / piece of tape interacts with the blade. Move the blade forward or backward in the clamp until the spot you marked hits the blade edge all the way to the tip. Make sure you keep the stone at the bottom of the guide rod throughout the process. No need to move the stone up and down the rod. Please note that your piece of tape may not make perfect contact with the entire blade edge on every knife. It depends on the size and shape of the blade. This procedure is simply the best way I’ve found to quickly locate the general area of the sweet spot. It’s not always perfect, but it will get you very, very close. You can use the sharpie trick outlined in the user manual to fine tune if necessary. Hope this helps.
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01/22/2018 at 12:24 pm #44769Good afternoon MarcH,
Questions, like sins are very similar. Rarely does someone come up with a new one.
I have so many questions and when I stopped reading the forum and started thinking about what I’d read I thought there is no way these experienced guys are going to answer all of my questions. The lazy and disrespectful (I’m usually fairly direct) thing to do would be to simply post the questions until someone got tired of answering them and told me to do the research. Wanting to be a long term member of this community I thought I’d avoid the uneasiness and unnecessary confrontation.
Admittedly, I’m a ‘B’ student and a visual learner so here’s where I’m having issues:
- As I start reading the answer to one of my questions (say I’m trying to determine how to find the knife’s sweet spot) the answer starts off simple enough, that is to say I understand the answer and then all of a sudden we take a deep dive into the complex. Most often someone starts justifying their answer with math and I’m lost, I start looking for another, hopefully more simple, thread.
- I’m finding it’s hard to find answers related to specific knives. It seems like the questions are often asked about sharpening a recurved blade for example, when the person asking the question is actually referring to a ZT 0301. If a beginner knew the knife was a ZT 0301 (with a less pronounced recurve) and not just a recurve blade that would be incredibly helpful.
This forum has been incredibly helpful when I stick to the basics and don’t try getting involved in more complex tasks that deserve my attention at a later date.
I wish there was a class I could go to or even a set of videos that required a paid subscription.
Thank you for all 0f your help. I’ll continue to do the research prior to asking you a question.
Derek
Derek, You’re doing the what I did, and what I would like to see all new WEPS users do, go back and read older posts. There are very few problems a new user experiences that a different new user hasn’t experienced when they were first starting. Pretty much every question that is presented to us has been presented and answered well at an earlier time. I know this is so because when I joined the forum , I was one of you new users asking these questions and gracious Forum members and contributors, here before me, answered my questions while referring me to previous forum posts and various videos. I learned from their direction an began going back and looking at the Main Forum, then the Forum Category like “Technique and Sharpening” then Forum Sub Category Like “Basic Techniques and Sharpening Techniques” and read, read, read from the beginning to present. I skipped some as it became repetitive an weighed back in some where further in the discussion. Then I picked another Category and did the same. As time passed when I had a question I would first look for a Forum Subcategory that encompassed my question and I read first before I just posted it. What I found was I could get the gist of it from the Forum and I could ask more detailed, clarifying questions when I asked questions. Then I also would use the forum “search” feature that I used then with success. Now I find it more difficult to use. Reading back in our Forum is a great help. Derek, we thank you for doing that! (Of course now we have newer model WEPS presenting newer issues that we look forward to tackling with enthusiasm and renewed vigor).
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01/22/2018 at 9:34 am #44768Good morning tcmeyer,
Thank you for your advice / instruction. I am going to follow your instructions (with a new knife) and I’ll report back here. Thank you for your time.
Derek
I think you can always determine an existing bevel angle. In an average-quality knife like this, the question is, why should you? Using the Sharpie method isn’t to measure the angle, it’s to match the existing angle, thereby reducing the effort needed to sharpen it and to reduce the amount of steel removed. Without reading Marc’s post several more times, I’m pretty sure he’s correct on all points. As for me, I would mount the knife as shown in the top photo and then sharpen it to 20 dps, for the same reason Marc states; that the steel won’t stand much use or abuse at 15 dps. If 400 grit doesn’t produce a burr (or an apex, as seen with a loupe or ‘scope) in a reasonable number of strokes (say, 50, maybe?), I drop to 200 grit and go from there. You can use any of the mid-to-higher grits for the Sharpie test. We usually go to 1000 or 1500 so as not to produce unnecessary scratches.
01/21/2018 at 10:28 pm #44763Good evening MarcH,
Thank you for posting this video. As soon as I saw this gentleman’s explanation the “sweet spot” light bulb went off for me.
Here’s another video on finding the Sweet Spot on YouTube: Hope it helps.
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01/21/2018 at 9:36 pm #44762Good evening MarcH,
Thank you for this reply. Is there ever a time when you can’t determine the knife’s existing angle?
If the existing angle is appropriate for the steel then you’d want to work with it. I wouldn’t re-profile any knife that didn’t require it. It’s added work and time and removes metal unnecessarily. Shortening the knifes usable lifespan. You can’t put steel back. Plus, every time you profile the edge the shoulder moves up the blade, shortening the knifes height, and generally to a thicker portion of the knife’s ground profile. Widening the knife edge usually negatively effects the knife’s performance. A thinner cutting edge out performs a thicker cutting edge. Just like you said you mess up some knives and had to spend $$ to send them off for repair. Before you start reprofiling knives, gain some experience and learn which profile does what when comparing the knifes cutting performance. So you know how, where and when to profile your knives. Otherwise you may mess up some knives that can’t be sent out for fixing.
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01/21/2018 at 6:51 pm #44759Good evening sksharp,
It sounds like the best idea is to reprofile new knives based on knife steel, quality, hardness, durability and intended use since there are so many variables beyond our initial control.
Do you generally reprofile your new knives?
Derek
I think you will find that advertised angles by manufacturers are generally speaking not very accurate. I have purchased identical knives at the same time and sharpened them, they both had completely different profiles and most “new” knife edges are all over the place and not very good until you get into the high end knives.
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01/21/2018 at 10:34 am #44744Good morning MarcH,
I think it’d be wise for me to do more reading and less buying. Thank you for this reply / information.
Derek
Welcome to the forum Jake. I haven’t found switching mediums back and forth, (diamonds > ceramics > diamonds > ceramics) to be a effective course of action. The scratch patterns of the mediums are different. There’s more to it then just reducing particle size as you go from coarse to fine. I agree with Justin that the ceramics take a long time to break in before you’ll see their true benefits. If you don’t have the ceramics yet, you can certainly do with out them. Diamonds through 1500 in my experience the way to go. At this point, after the 1500 grit diamond, you can chose to strop the edge and it should be very sharp. For a new user, as you say you are, I’d wait till your diamond stones are broken in more. At the same time you’ll be gaining more experience with your technique and your WEPS. Then in a month or two with some sharpening under your belt, the Diamond lapping films are a good way to go to get the ultimate sharp and shinny knife edge. Right now, with your diamond stones still so new and your level of experience I don’t think you’ll gain the true benefits of the Diamond lapping film quit yet. If you don’t mind the investment and the fact that the films are a fairly costly, a consumable commodity, then have at it. You won’t hurt anything using them. You just may not see your best results yet.
01/20/2018 at 7:28 pm #44726Good evening Gentlemen,
I really appreciate your taking the time to reply to my questions.
I must admit that I’ve read your reply MarcH, two times, and being a visual learner I expect to read it at least two more times tomorrow. Thank you for the information as both of you have taught me a great deal.
I very much appreciate the amount of time I see so many memebers of this forum investing in the community and look forward to the day when I can contribute.
If it’s okay with you (Pinkfloyd & MarcH) I’d like to come back to you with some questions soon?
Derek
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01/19/2018 at 5:28 pm #44694 -
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