Wicked Edge

[Wicked Edge]

Ryan Nerfherder wrote:
“So…rinsing the diamond and ceramic stones under a faucet using a toothbrush will not hurt or loosen the adhesive? I’m not concerned about the diamond or ceramic stones themselves just the potential loosening of the adhesive or anything else?

I’m afraid I haven’t been cleaning mine…I need to start using the damp towel/sponge next to the WEP and maybe do a deep cleaning under the faucet before my next sharpening. They’re dirty!

All I’ve been doing is just wiping the face of the stones on a dry paper towel but that is probably not as effective.”

I clean my stones with bar keepers friend and a tooth brush. I don’t immerse them in water, and in general, I wet the stone under faucet, then scrub, then rinse. Stand upright , out of sun, and away from heat. Allow to dry.

~Originally posted by Mikedoh

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[Wicked Edge]

I’ve never had to do anything more than dust off my 100/200 or 400/600 stones. The 800/1000’s have collected a little crud and needed attention maybe two or three times over the last three years, but they clean up well with the Superaser, as do my ceramics. Maybe it’s the cheap knives I sharpen.

~Originally posted by tcmeyer

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[Wicked Edge]

Here’s the last installment before I take off on the trip:

I went out yesterday up into the Pecos Wilderness, found a nice little clearing at 11,000 feet to do some more wood prep with the knife. I wanted to simulate multiple days use so I made a big pile of fire starting materials. I wasn’t trying to collect all the wood needed for multiple days, just enough to get fires started so I did a lot of splitting and carving, made a big pile of kindling and wood shavings. The thing I did that was probably hardest on the edge was to baton the knife through the limbs on some pieces of wood, right where they joined the main branch so I was going cross-grain, straight through the knots. Here’s the video:

And here are the after pics that I took with the microscope:

Fällkniven F1 after heavy use
500x magnification
500-600 grams of force on the sharpness machine

Fällkniven F1 after heavy use
500x magnification
500-600 grams of force on the sharpness machine

Fällkniven F1 after heavy use
500x magnification
500-600 grams of force on the sharpness machine

When I was finished with all the wood prep, the knife was no longer shaving. It could take a hair or two off my arm but not really sharp enough to say that it was shaving. It was still slicing paper well though it did snag whenever a micro-chip crossed the paper. Back in the sharpness tester, it was easy to see how much the edge had been degraded. It went from a range of 229-280 grams all the way to a range of 500-600 grams, so nearly half as sharp. Even so, I was impressed that it was working so well in the field and easily slicing copy paper back in the shop.

All in all, I’m very happy with the knife and the edge I selected for it. I feel confident that it will see me through my trip and perform whatever tasks are needed.
I’m most impressed by two things that this project highlights:

1) A well formed edge can last a really long time, even with hard use. Naturally the steel and heat treatment as well as the blade design are important factors as well.
2) It only took about 45 seconds of sharpening to restore the blade to shaving sharp and trip ready.

~Originally posted by wickededge

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Attachments:

• 5.jpg
• 6.jpg
• 7.jpg

[Wicked Edge]

Here’s the video from yesterday’s outing:

I am really impressed at just how quickly the knife came back to screaming sharp.

~Originally posted by wickededge

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[Wicked Edge]

That looks awesome.

~Originally posted by DanMaloon

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[Wicked Edge]

Nice!

~Originally posted by pinkfloyd74

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[Wicked Edge]

great analysis clay! yeah, you’re definitely going to need to be able to touch it up in the field apparently!’

it’s a good thing you could always sharpen it on a brick if you had to! 😉

~Originally posted by razoredgeknives

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[Wicked Edge]

Alcohol will remove marker also.

~Originally posted by Mikedoh

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[Wicked Edge]

1. what do you mean “point and kick”? not sure I follow here

2. use brake kleen from the local auto store… or any acetone based product. or you can use a magic eraser.

hope this helps! oh, and I never use the alcohol on my strops… you will be fine if you choose not to =) it won’t hurt them. that stuff evaporates so fast anyway i don’t know how long it would stick to them.

~Originally posted by razoredgeknives

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[Wicked Edge]

Mike said it all! Welcome to a great community!

~Originally posted by razoredgeknives

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[Wicked Edge]

Welcome.
Practice on your inexpensive knives.
It gives the stones a chance to break in.

Lots of info on the forum/website. Browse around while you’re waiting to get set up.
Feel free to ask any questions. Lots of good /knowledgeable people here.

~Originally posted by Mikedoh

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[Wicked Edge]

Six knives… how long did it (or will it) take you to finish these?

I did a quick search in the Forum and found a thread from 5 months ago in which you said, “for most kitchen blades i stop at 800 the both ceramics……..if shuns/globals – other japanese i stop on 1000, both ceramics and then strop, but strop on wooden paddle with compound.”

Would that be true of this half dozen blades?

~Posted by GibCurry

For Now,

Gib

Φ

“Things work out best for those who make the best out of the way things work out.”

“My goal is to be a good, practical knife sharpener. My dream is to polish molecules.”

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