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Viewing 15 posts - 136 through 150 (of 490 total)
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  • #24789
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Here’s a couple I’ve done. Both knives are mine. 😉

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Wow man… that is beautiful! I HATE doing wide bevels! lol

    #24791
    Lance Waller
    Participant
    • Topics: 23
    • Replies: 138

    Thanks man. I’m with ya. It’s really tough because of the play in the rods. I have to tilt the paddles forward and the tilt then backwards on the rod so I can get the entire bevel when it’s that wide. Look bitchin when you get it right tho!

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    #24811
    CliffCurry
    Participant
    • Topics: 42
    • Replies: 461

    Iwaller, not sure what’s more impressive, the edges or the photographs, both are excellent!

    Perhaps today’s a good day to build a light box… Tired of taking subpar photos.

    Aloha

    #24818
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    Does anyone have great pictures of kitchen knives they’ve sharpened?

    -Clay

    #24820
    tcmeyer
    Participant
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 2098

    I did some testing recently and proved to myself that the best grip technique is at the bottom of the blocks. Try not to let your pressure point get above the level of the edge, where rod/bore clearances could allow the block to rotate over the fulcrum of the edge, thereby changing the angle substantially. I know this feels wrong to most of you, but listen….

    I have converted all of my non-strop blocks to bushings, which have nearly zero play. A while back, I bought a replacement pair of 800/1000’s. As I broke them in, I found that there was no practical difference between my bushing-modified blocks and the unmodified blocks. The angles were perfect. For some time I was anguishing over all the effort I’d put into this affair and was almost convinced there was no appreciable difference. Then one day I was working on a particularly long blade, which led me to use longer strokes. Under the microscope, it was clear I was creating another facet. , I happened to be video taping that run and played it back that night on my desktop computer with earphones (so as not to wake up Mama). During the taping I had placed a remote microphone on the table next to the WEPS. On playback, I could hear loud clicks on both the down stroke and on the up stroke. Click-click. Click-click. Click-click. This doesn’t happen with my modified blocks – only with the new ones. The long stroke had led me to move my pressure point above the edge and the click I heard was the rod in the bore in the block as it slapped from tipped in to being tipped out. In the middle of the stroke, the blocks which changing angles by almost one degree.

    I’m not trying to sell bushings or the idea of bushings, I’m trying to convince you into learning how to use your stones properly. Don’t let them rock as they pass over the edge. Most of the veterans here have developed their techniques well enough to produce mirror-quality bevels. But for those of us who are still on the learning curve, this is an important lesson.

    If you’re thinking that you’d like it more if you kept your pressure point above the edge, please understand that when you approach the upper end of the rod, you have a large lever advantage and variability in pressure can change the angle slightly, not to mention pressure variability at the grind point. Applying pressure below the edge ensures a more constant pressure at the contact point because of the mechanical disadvantage.

    #24821
    CliffCurry
    Participant
    • Topics: 42
    • Replies: 461

    I’ve come to the same conclusion as Tom. Having the extended riser & longer rods helps to not go over the top and form that second Facet. Once another facet gets formed things get complicated quickly. 🙁

    Another advantage to holding low thru the grit progression is being able to hold at the top for the last few passes on the final grit and being assured of hitting the apex for a razor finish without doing a full micro bevel.

    #24856
    CliffCurry
    Participant
    • Topics: 42
    • Replies: 461

    OK thanks to urging from Josh. Here’s my first photo attempts with a simple homemade light box on the recently sharpened Para II with a 200 grit micro-bevel.

    #24861
    Zamfir
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 346

    I did some testing recently and proved to myself that the best grip technique is at the bottom of the blocks. Try not to let your pressure point get above the level of the edge, where rod/bore clearances could allow the block to rotate over the fulcrum of the edge, thereby changing the angle substantially. I know this feels wrong to most of you, but listen….

    I have converted all of my non-strop blocks to bushings, which have nearly zero play. A while back, I bought a replacement pair of 800/1000’s. As I broke them in, I found that there was no practical difference between my bushing-modified blocks and the unmodified blocks. The angles were perfect. For some time I was anguishing over all the effort I’d put into this affair and was almost convinced there was no appreciable difference. Then one day I was working on a particularly long blade, which led me to use longer strokes. Under the microscope, it was clear I was creating another facet. , I happened to be video taping that run and played it back that night on my desktop computer with earphones (so as not to wake up Mama). During the taping I had placed a remote microphone on the table next to the WEPS. On playback, I could hear loud clicks on both the down stroke and on the up stroke. Click-click. Click-click. Click-click. This doesn’t happen with my modified blocks – only with the new ones. The long stroke had led me to move my pressure point above the edge and the click I heard was the rod in the bore in the block as it slapped from tipped in to being tipped out. In the middle of the stroke, the blocks which changing angles by almost one degree.

    I’m not trying to sell bushings or the idea of bushings, I’m trying to convince you into learning how to use your stones properly. Don’t let them rock as they pass over the edge. Most of the veterans here have developed their techniques well enough to produce mirror-quality bevels. But for those of us who are still on the learning curve, this is an important lesson.

    If you’re thinking that you’d like it more if you kept your pressure point above the edge, please understand that when you approach the upper end of the rod, you have a large lever advantage and variability in pressure can change the angle slightly, not to mention pressure variability at the grind point. Applying pressure below the edge ensures a more constant pressure at the contact point because of the mechanical disadvantage.

    Yup yup! nice explanation Great post! Gotta build that muscle memory!

    #24863
    Mark76
    Participant
    • Topics: 179
    • Replies: 2760

    Very nice, Cliff!

    Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge

    #24865
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    OK thanks to urging from Josh. Here’s my first photo attempts with a simple homemade light box on the recently sharpened Para II with a 200 grit micro-bevel.

    Duuuuude that’s insane! Great Job bro! What angle is that at?

    Light box makes those things look SO much better!

    #24867
    CliffCurry
    Participant
    • Topics: 42
    • Replies: 461

    Duuuuude that’s insane! Great Job bro! What angle is that at?

    Light box makes those things look SO much better!

    Thanks again for calling me out on the subpar photos a week or so ago. I wasn’t happy with them either & guess I just needed a little poke with a stick to get motivated. Now I’m so stoked I want to sharpen some new stuff just to see how the pics come out!!!

    Angles are 12dps w/ 15dps on the 200 grit micro bevel. 👿

    Aloha

    #24881
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    Those are great pics and a beautiful edge Cliff! Have you done any cutting with it so far? Would you mind if I posted these on some social media sites? I’ll be sure to credit you for the sharpening and photos.

    -Clay

    #24887
    CliffCurry
    Participant
    • Topics: 42
    • Replies: 461

    Yes, please, & thank you Clay! 🙂

    I haven’t done enough cutting with it in my everyday life to really have an idea on durability yet. It sure “feels” sharp with the 3 finger test.

    #24888
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2939

    Yes, please, & thank you Clay! 🙂

    I haven’t done enough cutting with it in my everyday life to really have an idea on durability yet. It sure “feels” sharp with the 3 finger test.

    Thanks Cliff!

    -Clay

    #24930
    Steven N. Bolin
    Participant
    • Topics: 47
    • Replies: 456

    Here’s my newly reprofiled 17dps Benchmade 940 Osborne.

    100-1000 WE diamonds
    5/3.5 micron on balsa
    1/.5 micron on leather.

    Thanks for looking!

    ~Steven

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