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Scissor Sharpening with a Stock PP2?

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 48 total)
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  • #13608
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    I had to use a q-tip as an angle shim to get the scissors to an angle the WEPS could handle.

    I need a picture I guess… I stuck a Q-tip everywhere I could think… couldn’t figure it out. :side:

    Can you snap one or two?

    #13625
    Eamon Mc Gowan
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 513

    Sounds good did you do them on the WE or just used the paddles from the WE?
    I normally stop at 1200 grit on the EP although if I do hair shears I take them to 6000 grit tapes.

    Leo, I used the paddles. Per the thread Curtis sent me to. I stopped at 600 grit. I really had no idea where to start and end? :unsure: So I went with the thread. I now have the other pair to do. I am very seriously considering going up to 1200 grit seeing as you have had good luck with it? :whistle:
    The thing that holds me back is the blades are a little loose and can’t be tightened anymore. :S I think what she is doing is locking the blades together the way she holds them? Then trims her hair. :ohmy: This is a little ol lady. I’m unsure of going higher that the blade will not gather her hair? What do you guys think? 🙂

    Fred, I’m with Curtis, Q Tip?? I need a picture as well? :huh:
    Thank you all,
    Eamon

    #13633
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    Assuming you can get the screw out could you find a nylon washer to put under the screw perhaps then you could torque it up more is it solely a machine screw or is there a nut on the other side .

    I would normally start the scissors as high a grit as possible minimum 600 possible 1000 if the blades are in reasonable shape that is I would also include that with knives the steel is precious so the less we take off the better .

    If they are to be used for hair I go to 6000 grit tape .
    Remember sharpen to the angle that represents the largest span of the blade and the blades may well have different angles on them or one blade may have micro serrations if so leave that one alone just do the other blade.
    Good luck with them.

    I would suggest putting possible a small wooden wedge behind the blade so it is angled towards the paddle allowing for a higher sharpening angle I would use a wooden lollipop stick or something similar since they are easy to shave to the required shape then you could label it for use another time.

    #13824
    Jed Bowen
    Participant
    • Topics: 8
    • Replies: 57

    I would also like a pic of this Q-tip or wooden shim trick. I have fooled around with it with no success.
    Thanks for all the info

    #13827
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    Since I do not yet have my WE this is theoretical but having drawn it it looks as if you would need wedges both sides of the blade.
    It will depend on how wide the WE vice jaws go whether it is possible or not.
    Here is a diagram of how I would try to do it – if it works great otherwise you will have to wait for Clay . The wedges could be made out of an eraser since it is easy to cut.

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    #13828
    Eamon Mc Gowan
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 513

    Okay I have screwed up my first pair of scissors! All I did was on screw them now they will not screw back in?
    Clay would you please weigh in on this subject? Can you please give us a little expertise here? I am considering buying the twice as sharp system should I wait? I don’t want trade secrets just a heads up please?
    Thank you
    Eamon

    #13829
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    Ouch Eamon
    I have found with scissors that there are some where the screws come out easily and those that don’t; if the screw doesn’t seem to want to shift I leave them in place I have one pair of scissors I tried to remove the screw and then I realised that it had been sort of riveted in on the other side (or perhaps the screw end was flattened onto the nut & then flattened with a file or Dremmel)so I have left them alone although I have contemplated drilling out the screw rivet and replacing it with some sort of small machine screw , washer and nut .
    Perhaps you could replace the screw and re-tap the scissors .

    Good luck!

    #13832
    Eamon Mc Gowan
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 513

    Yes ouch:-C. There was no warning signs that thesomething was going wrong? I deceided not to do them as they are convex after a closer look. The plastic one piece nut/washer just spins freely now. I ordered a new pair for the customer and will get micky mouse the old one for me . I’m not upset? Just chalk it up to lifes learning curve:-$
    I have sent myself to do “you tube higher education” :cheer:
    The “twice as sharp” by Wolf seems to be the Weps of scissors. I would much rather spend my money with clay:-! I just think whatever clay has up his sleeve is going to be way better! 🙂

    #13833
    Eamon Mc Gowan
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 513

    Sorry cell phone did a double tap:’(

    #13843
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    At least with Clays solution you will be able to do a graduated convex . I did a graduated convex on a Mac knife 10Ëš to the edge then micro bevel at 15Ëš-14-13-12-11Ëš then I stropped out the transitions that was on my EP but that was after reading Clay’s method of convex-ing (probable another month to go for my WE).
    The other simple method and it works well for convex-ing is progressively finer wet & dry sand papers on a mouse pad I learnt that on my Rockstead Beetle they have an uneven grind 12Ëš on the kissaki steepening from the end of the kissaki back to the heel to 15Ëš plus it is about 90/10 grind so 90% on the right hand side and a minimum on the left just enough to remove the burr it is made of YXR7 – HRc65 so too complicated to do on a tool

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    #13844
    Josh
    Participant
    • Topics: 89
    • Replies: 1672

    Yes ouch:-C. There was no warning signs that thesomething was going wrong? I deceided not to do them as they are convex after a closer look. The plastic one piece nut/washer just spins freely now. I ordered a new pair for the customer and will get micky mouse the old one for me . I’m not upset? Just chalk it up to lifes learning curve:-$
    I have sent myself to do “you tube higher education” :cheer:
    The “twice as sharp” by Wolf seems to be the Weps of scissors. I would much rather spend my money with clay:-! I just think whatever clay has up his sleeve is going to be way better! 🙂

    I’ve actually got the Twice as Sharp… works great! Can’t ask for a faster great edge when it comes to scissors, and the jig makes it almost fool proof :cheer:

    #13851
    Eamon Mc Gowan
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 513

    Yes ouch:-C. There was no warning signs that thesomething was going wrong? I deceided not to do them as they are convex after a closer look. The plastic one piece nut/washer just spins freely now. I ordered a new pair for the customer and will get micky mouse the old one for me . I’m not upset? Just chalk it up to lifes learning curve:-$
    I have sent myself to do “you tube higher education” :cheer:
    The “twice as sharp” by Wolf seems to be the Weps of scissors. I would much rather spend my money with clay:-! I just think whatever clay has up his sleeve is going to be way better! 🙂

    I’ve actually got the Twice as Sharp… works great! Can’t ask for a faster great edge when it comes to scissors, and the jig makes it almost fool proof :cheer:[/quote]

    Josh.
    That is some great info! That is two people on this thread that are using the “Twice” machine that speak very highly of it! There seems to be three models that basically look the same? Then an upgraded machine and the top tier that looks to be way expensive.
    Which one did you get and why if you don’t mind me asking? Unless Clay says “heads up” I am pretty darn sure I am going to be the proud father of a new bouncing baby scissor machine :silly:

    #13854
    Ziggy
    Participant
    • Topics: 11
    • Replies: 177

    eamon,
    TAS regular (pro) is great for fabric shear, kitchen etc, plus a good tool sharpener of sorts.
    The Ookami wheels are a step up and are amazing on finer scissors, barber shears, grooming and up to a pretty high level of salon shears. Package has some useful items in it.
    The separate convex clamp works similar to how we work on the WEPS, several angles, then roll them together with the soft wheel with compound.

    The Flat hone model is for high end salon shears.
    I haven’t bought that as its 2k and not ready to step into that market.
    Seems flat hone is what they are handling the $600 – $1k scissors, consensus is flat honing of super high end shears is the standard … meh. Damn machines range from $1k – $10k.

    Like I said, the regular TAS is great for working shears and has harsher grit wheels.
    The Ookami Gold wheels make for a more refined edge, and yes you can do convex with the clamp.
    But results are not as refined and polished as flat hones which usually have complete control over the scissor, depending on the maker/model. (also debates about the wheels making concave lines and rolling them to work the convex)
    That higher end salon stuff is a whole nother world.

    Honing the ride line of the back of concave scissors … plate glass and diamond sprays, or as TAS Gold provides, a large auto body sanding block and fine grit papers… it works.

    Just my 2 cents down the path of scissors and the TAS.
    Hope it helps,
    zig

    #13875
    Eamon Mc Gowan
    Participant
    • Topics: 17
    • Replies: 513

    eamon,
    TAS regular (pro) is great for fabric shear, kitchen etc, plus a good tool sharpener of sorts.
    The Ookami wheels are a step up and are amazing on finer scissors, barber shears, grooming and up to a pretty high level of salon shears. Package has some useful items in it.
    The separate convex clamp works similar to how we work on the WEPS, several angles, then roll them together with the soft wheel with compound.

    The Flat hone model is for high end salon shears.
    I haven’t bought that as its 2k and not ready to step into that market.
    Seems flat hone is what they are handling the $600 – $1k scissors, consensus is flat honing of super high end shears is the standard … meh. Damn machines range from $1k – $10k.

    Like I said, the regular TAS is great for working shears and has harsher grit wheels.
    The Ookami Gold wheels make for a more refined edge, and yes you can do convex with the clamp.
    But results are not as refined and polished as flat hones which usually have complete control over the scissor, depending on the maker/model. (also debates about the wheels making concave lines and rolling them to work the convex)
    That higher end salon stuff is a whole nother world.

    Honing the ride line of the back of concave scissors … plate glass and diamond sprays, or as TAS Gold provides, a large auto body sanding block and fine grit papers… it works.

    Just my 2 cents down the path of scissors and the TAS.
    Hope it helps,
    zig

    Wow! Zig thanks for the education!! You answered so many questions that came up for me watching vids. So I guess the Ookami is the one to get? It seems like if you do some nicer scissors it will be able to accommodate the customer?
    I really appreciate you taking the time!! :cheer:

    #13877
    Leo Barr
    Participant
    • Topics: 26
    • Replies: 812

    That sounds a serious piece of kit(I looked at the models serious machinery) I am glad that I do not need to consider such a beast I currently have the EP which has a scissor table which works very well since the scissors are clamped to the table . If I did not have that I would be tempted by the machine.
    I am sure that Clay’s chisel attachment may well eventually do scissors.

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