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Pro pack II set screws

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Viewing 15 posts - 91 through 105 (of 129 total)
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  • #7937
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    Good stuff, I guess I will get mine before christmas.

    What are the changes?

    A return to the 10-32 screws with the tapered end.

    #7938
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 568

    I’m thinking of changing my screws to brass so they don’t start marring up the SS bar and micro fine adjuster threads.

    #7939
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 351

    Good stuff, I guess I will get mine before christmas.

    What are the changes?

    A return to the 10-32 screws with the tapered end.[/quote]

    I’ll play, do the screws “look” any different? :dry:

    #7944
    blacksheep25
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 68

    I’m thinking of changing my screws to brass so they don’t start marring up the SS bar and micro fine adjuster threads.

    Looking at the micro adjust, mine has the standard sharpened point, that would dig directly into the threads of the ball joint. I’m not going to use them because I think it will cause problems down the road. Also, one side is tapped pretty tight where you can thread the ball joint in about 3 turns, and then you have to use a wrench to get it to tighten the rest of the way. The other side is loose such that you can thread it all the way by hand. On the loose side, I added teflon tape as a non-permanent locking agent (like nylock or loctite) so that it will not change adjustment without a wrench. Another temp solution to protect the threads of ball joint from the micro adjust lock screw would be a plastic ball of nylon or delrin between the two threaded surfaces, since it should take mere hand tightening to lock the micro adjust.

    I’m gonna stop at the hardware store on the way home to try and find some all plastic/nylon/delrin screws, hex heads, or thumbscrews; should have sufficient tension to keep the micro adjust screw from spinning.

    Attached pic is the “new” black screws on the left, and the original all metal screws on the right.

    Attachments:
    #7949
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 568

    I was looking around for some of my boys air-soft ammo to see if it would fit, but didn’t find any.

    #7951
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    What about these: 10-32 Thd., 1/2 Lg., Nylon Tipped Thumb Screws, Zinc Plated Steel? I’d love to find them with a knurled head instead of the spade head, but so far haven’t found a source…

    -Clay

    #7952
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    Looks like maybe I can get them as socket head cap screws and then press the thumb wheel onto them. Investigating…

    -Clay

    #7953
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 351

    What about these: 10-32 Thd., 1/2 Lg., Nylon Tipped Thumb Screws, Zinc Plated Steel? I’d love to find them with a knurled head instead of the spade head, but so far haven’t found a source…

    I’ll give you a tip when searching Google.

    Search “Nylon Tipped Thumb Screws”, but select “images” search, then click on the site that has the pic you like.

    edit – I still think it’s crazy to screw into a thread though. 😉

    #7957
    blacksheep25
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 68

    edit – I still think it’s crazy to screw into a thread though. 😉

    The nylon tip would act as a nyloc/nylock (nylon pellet) locking element. Kind of like this:

    http://www.nylok.com/downloads/product_sheets/f_pellet.pdf

    Except in this setup, the locking element can be backed out to facilitate adjustment.

    IMHO, the nylon TIPPED screws are nice, but the 100% nylon fastener might be a simpler solution. 😉

    #7976
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 351

    The clamp idea was the best, but it must be too expensive.

    Or someone already has 10,000 current “L” brackets.

    #7979
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    The clamp idea was the best, but it must be too expensive.

    Or someone already has 10,000 current “L” brackets.

    I still like that idea as well and we’ll revisit it after the holidays wrap up. For now, we’re more focused on getting everything out on time, especially after the big strike held up our stuff in LA for an extra week. We’ll be able to get it done but we’ll be cramming and not working on too much else. The recall slowed us down as well and we’re finally starting to come around the corner on that. After the turn of the year, we’ll have all engines ahead again and we can wrap up the serrated tool and other projects.

    -Clay

    #7997
    Chris
    Participant
    • Topics: 7
    • Replies: 351

    Good stuff, I guess I will get mine before christmas.

    What are the changes?

    A return to the 10-32 screws with the tapered end.[/quote]

    I’ll play, do the screws “look” any different? :dry:[/quote]

    I don’t get an answer?
    Then.

    Attached pic is the “new” black screws on the left, and the original all metal screws on the right.

    They look like the 8-32 black screws with a tapered tip.
    Are they the new screws or are these?

    Why is this such a hard question to get an answer?

    #7998
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    Chris,

    The screws pictured in the bottom image are what we’ll be sending out from now on.

    -Clay

    #7999
    Toney Copen
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 6

    Received my updated arm brackets and screws.

    Much thanks for promptly correcting this issue.

    Back to sharpening!!

    #8003
    Gary Crumb
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 119

    I don’t get an answer?

    I would have answered but I don’t have my upgrade yet. Last I heard it was going to be around the 17th or so…

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