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Pro pack II set screws

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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 129 total)
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  • #6776
    Mikedoh
    Moderator
    • Topics: 38
    • Replies: 570

    cbwx

    Yes, the ‘bad’ screw seems slightly bigger.

    By the way cbwx, do those kinds of bees travel in pairs?

    #6777
    Fred Hermann
    Participant
    • Topics: 30
    • Replies: 188

    That’s awesome, I’ve only fiddled with the older arms, and polished the new waiting on my basebar.
    I have to say, the older are very hard to adjust to the same angles.

    #6783
    cbwx34
    Participant
    • Topics: 57
    • Replies: 1505

    Yes, the ‘bad’ screw seems slightly bigger.

    By the way cbwx, do those kinds of bees travel in pairs?

    Cool. Thanks. Thought it might help narrow down the problem.

    (Picture says it all….) 🙂 (I just thought it was funny though).

    #6805
    Toney Copen
    Participant
    • Topics: 3
    • Replies: 6

    Sorry about that. I updated my post. I did realize I forgot to attach the picture. You can see the black screw has a flat end and the silver screw is rounded on the end. The round end allows for the screw to set into the pre-drilled angle indention’s correctly.

    #6823
    Xbander
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 68

    Clay you most likely already know this – not just the Pro pack II’s. shipped. It is also like myself who ordered the new arm update. I wondered why the new arms did not have the nicer stainless screws and had drop the thread size, now we know. Are the black screws even stainless?
    Thanks.

    #6825
    wickededge
    Keymaster
    • Topics: 123
    • Replies: 2938

    Clay you most likely already know this – not just the Pro pack II’s. shipped. It is also like myself who ordered the new arm update. I wondered why the new arms did not have the nicer stainless screws and had drop the thread size, now we know. Are the black screws even stainless?
    Thanks.

    They’re not… How are they working?

    -Clay

    #6826
    David Hamilton
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 7

    The black screws are not stainless. A magnet sticks strongly to the threads. the knurled thumb screw appears to be plastic

    #6828
    Fred Hermann
    Participant
    • Topics: 30
    • Replies: 188

    I’m thinking Clay may need one of these for the machine shop.

    I would imagine he’s pretty frustrated with them at this point.

    Attachments:
    #6830
    Mark
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 56

    Looks like Clay is on top of this. I just got a message that my order would be delayed because ” We have received some customer feedback and we are taking some extra time to make the Upgrade Kit even better.”

    I would rather wait and get it right than get the wrong stuff right away.

    #6831
    David Hamilton
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 7

    Clay

    I’ve only sharpened a couple knives On my arm upgrade, and I am certainly no expert. I found the screws on the square shaft (lets call it the course adjustment) did not fit in the detents, but they did not move. on the other hand, the set screw to lock the angle adjustment (fine adjustment) did tend to losen and change the angle before I noticed it, no mater how much I tightened it by hand.

    In a few weeks I can get some cup point set screws from work (I might go to a hardware store to get some sooner) My only minor worry using cup points on the threads is that they might bugger up the threads.

    I doubt that they will have the same size allan wrench as the tool that comes with the WE, but that is no big deal. I can just drill another hole in the base and put the right sized allan wrench in it.

    #6833
    Xbander
    Participant
    • Topics: 1
    • Replies: 68

    Clay asked how it working?

    The new arms are a much improved product no question around that, all the play is gone. The black flat screws do not at all fit into the pre-drilled indention’s. It makes since how I recorded a 20 on the left and a 20.5 on the right and not 21. Then again I am using the cube to define the exact angle so I would have adjusted the .5 out. Not having the screw sit in the indent might introduce inconsistent setup when you go back to touch up a knife. I agree with others, maybe should have held off before spending the money and getting the upgrade too soon… want to be on the edge, just not the bleeding edge.

    Thanks

    #6836
    D K
    Participant
    • Topics: 2
    • Replies: 22

    Hey guys thought I would just hop on this convo as well. I purchased the upgraded arms and have been super stoked on them. I noticed as well that the set screws on my upgrades were flat and smaller which I thought was odd. I have been having a bit of an issue with them loosening as I sharpen which can be a bit frustrating. I was wondering if anyone knew of a good place online that I could purchase a screw with a tapered end to eliminate this from happening. I agree that Clay is most likely feeling the same frustrations that we are if not more. Ohh the beauty of growing pains!

    #6837
    David Hamilton
    Participant
    • Topics: 0
    • Replies: 7

    Here is one of many sites.

    Item 62062 is probably about what we are looking for, but you are paying 5.00 shipping for a 5 cent item. a local hardware store might be better.

    I am guessing that an 8-32 cup point set screw will work the best, 1/2″ length is what we are replacing. You will also need a 5/64 allen wrench to tighten it.

    As I indicated on a previous post, the cup point runs a risk of buggering up the threads on the fine adjustment, even more so with the allen wrench instead of a thumb screw. In a quick search I haven’t found thumb screws in this size with anything other than flat point.

    There are tons of other choices on the web, but most vendors want to sell 100 or more (still only 4.00 bucks or so) if you have a local hardware store, it will probably be a better choice then buying on line

    #6838
    Fred Hermann
    Participant
    • Topics: 30
    • Replies: 188

    I installed my riser and new arms, and like all of you, determined they don’t hold well. My quick fix was Scotch tape on the smooth side of the bar. This seemed to work a little better. Tomorrow I am digging thru my bolt bin and if I have a matching threaded bolt I am going to grind one into a point. The reason for the nut is to clean up the threads after grinding. Dad calls it a poor mans die and tap.

    #6840
    Phil Pasteur
    Participant
    • Topics: 10
    • Replies: 944

    You folks might try some of the light duty “purple” breakable locktite on the locking screw threads. I used it with the original arms when the angle bracket screws would loosen on me from time to time. It doesn’t ..lock tite, but adds a good deal of drag to the threads keeping them from backing out on you. It worked great for me.

    http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-38653-Purple-Strength-Thread/dp/B0002KKTT0

    I would be real careful with the fine angle adjustment locking screw. Mess up those threads and I am afraid the you have a bigger problem than you started with… Those cup screws could be dangerous. Probably work OK on the base bar, but those ridges will be tough on the fine angle adjuster threads. After all, they are intended to dig into whatever they are tightened against.

    Phil

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