Ninjaflex (TPU) Paddle Bumpers
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After my first knife sharpening (bread knife) I realized why there were multiple mods for paddle stops. Since I am integrating my 3D printer into this new skill set, I figured I would make a simple stop that provides a little rebound.. Not experienced enough to know if that is a good thing or not. Initially I had thought about an adjustable sleeve like I had seen in this forum topped with Nijaflex but figure I would go simple first. Of course this is more stuff to roll off the table and get lost but a holder would be something else to fabricate! 🙂
The set consists of 4 stops 25mm, 16mm, 13mm and 7mm which can be used in any combination. The TPU is extremely flexible but also very hard to compress on axis due to the way the infill and shells walls are fabricated.
Update: I have to revoke my offer for a free set, already mailed 2 out . Once we get feedback from those guys and determine if the price is reasonable I will order a single color of filament in a large quantity. I am not trying to make a living with this but I need to break even. I didn’t realize how much filament was consumed making these when I made that free offer and my supply is very limited at the moment. One set uses up 1/2 a splash spool of the mutli color packs
Time-laps https://youtu.be/IDMjvuc8a10
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This topic was modified 5 years, 9 months ago by
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This topic was modified 5 years, 9 months ago by
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This topic was modified 5 years, 9 months ago by
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airscapes, There are two reasons to employ paddle bumpers or stones stops, my preferred name. One reason is to cushion the stone as it bumps down against the ball arms. The other reason, which is why I started using use these stone stops, is to limit the travel and the range of motion of the sharpening paddles as they slide up and down the guide rods. I use both a lower stone stop and an upper stone stop that I lock in the position I need them along the guide rods. The stops are particularly helpful while employing an up-down-up-down scrubbing motion. The stops give me safe control over the stones motion so I can concentrate solely on the stones position and contact against the bevel and not need to also monitor the stones travel along the guide rods.
I don’t want to allow the stones to slide down the guide rods, or be in a resting position, so the top of the stone is lower then the bevel. This would allow the stone abrasive to contact the knives side steel below the knife edge. This causes those unwanted scratches to the sides of the knives. For the same reason, if the stone is allowed to travel up above and off the knife’s edge, when the downward motion of the scrubbing is initiated, the stone can come down onto the knife edge and cause damage to the apex. This damage can be quite severe depending on how fast or aggressive the scrubbing motion is.
The stone stops are particularly helpful when sharpening knives that are clamped in the vise in such a way that the edge is positioned higher then the top of the stone, as it’s resting down at the bottom of the guide rod. This situation is seen when sharpening larger, taller bladed knives, or when using the low angle adapter, (LAA), used to elevate the knife to allow you to achieve those low bevel angles settings, with-out the stones contacting the vise and jaws. Some of us have modified our sharpeners to allow us to achieve lower angle settings with addition of “riser blocks”, that elevates all clamped knives higher relative to the ball arms position. These sharpening scenarios sometimes call for the need to use longer guide rods. In these situation being able to limit the travel by setting the stone stops position to exactly match what I’m sharpening at the time, allows me to place all my attention on my sharpening technique without worrying about the stones position.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)That all make perfect sense and I did experience the stone below the bevel out a the end of the bread knife.. I did not think about the top stop, however I think these may grip the rods tight enough to work at both ends. Time will tell!
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Thanks for the interest in these. I have 2 sets out in the mail and want to see how folks like them.. The Ninjaflex is rather expensive and I am not sure if the price I would need to charge to make these and mail them would be worth it to folks. I could make the same out of a hard plastic that would be much less costly I will have to see how the 2 members like them and if they think they are worth having. So at this time I can’t really give out any more free samples, initially I didn’t bother to check to see how much filament was used to make them as it was just for my self.
Filament cost for a set is about $6, add time, electricity, shipping envelope and postage.. you up around $25 to make a few dollars. PETG or ABS would bring the material cost down to pennies but no bounce or tight fit without a set screw..
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Sorry David, the cost me too much in material and time to do any more for free. I want to get feed back from both folks that I sent them to and find out if they are work making for the price I will have to charge.. probably between $10 and $15 which seem like a lot for something you can make from any number of hardware store items.
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Airscapes, <!–more–>I understand and did not expect them for free.
Sending you a PM
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