New Small Sebenza 21… To me! Sharpening Questions

[YerrowEdge]

Attention all sharpener masters… I need your help.

I am a beginner novice at best, I have a Wicked Edge and I kinda know how to use it.

I have recently acquired a used Small Sebbie, the previous owner sharpened the edge to 18 DPS. I understand that going from 20 to 18 will increase the edge thickness, and from looking at his work he was also a novice at best =)

– Pressure was inconsistent

– Edges were inconsistent

– Angle was slightly inconsistent

I fixed it very very slowly and to the best of my ability and here is what I have and have done:

– Even the angle very very slowly with some 600

– Matched both sides to a true 18 DPS, using micro adjust and angle cube

– The sweet spot was attained and the blade was perpendicular to the fixture.

Here are the remaining issues:

– The edge from the last inch to the tip is still slightly thicker than the rest of the blade

– The edge from the last inch to the tip still have micro scuffing after a 5 micron strop

– The edge from the choil to about an inch into the blade still have micro scuffing after a 5 micron strop

Here are my questions:

–  The edge is pretty consistent after my rework from the choil to the last inch, edge thickness is 0.0455″ the last inch or so thickens from 0.0455″ and ends with 0.0770″ I was to know if it is possible to have a consistent true 18 DPS and have the edge to remain at 0.0455″ through… Or should I not mess with it and send it back to the pros. lead time is 1 month =(

– If this is fixed I believe that should also take care of the micro scuffing.

– Another minor thing… Both Slabs dates dont match drives me nuts. B-17 and C-17

Closing comment… This is going to be a working knife, no going to baby it or treasure it, I have no problem using my tools I just don’t want to “abuse” them =)

Thanks guys!

[tcmeyer]

You should measure the thickness between the shoulders, not the width of the bevel.  If you look at the grind lines, you’ll see that the blade is thicker at the tip than it is from the heel to the belly.  This is what makes the bevel widths different.

Why the difference?  Obviously, the maker doesn’t actually carry the grind all the way to the tip, sweeping to keep it perpendicular to the edge.  This would be a really odd profile.  Instead, they grind a slight longitudinal taper, trying to reduce the difference in thickness caused by the decrease in blade width.  At the tip, the effect is greatest and increasing the rate of taper would weaken the blade at the tip, where it’s most likely to be subjected to forces which might cause breakage.

Actually, I think your bevels look very nice and if you truly want to use it as your EDC, I wouldn’t focus on the small nuances of bevel geometry.  It’s sharp and it looks sharp.  Use it.  Enjoy it.

8 users thanked author for this post.

wickededge, NotSharpEnuff, DaveG, Scott DF, jabas2000, David, Marc H, Dwight Glass

[YerrowEdge]

Makes total sense!

thank you so much! I guess when CRK puts an edge it is way thinner so it is less obvious.

but yes, it’s an EDC I just wanted to clean it up as best as possible and then… beat the crap out of it 🙂

 

1 user thanked author for this post.

Hogdog

[Organic]

The answer to getting rid of the grind marks towards the tip and heel is simply more strokes. The middle always gets worked more than the extremities of the blade. I would suggest dropping back to 800 or 1000 grit and spending extra time working the heel and tip at each grit in your progression. All together, it looks like a nice edge.

3 users thanked author for this post.

wickededge, DaveG, YerrowEdge

[Author]

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