I was in a hurry
- This topic has 9 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 10/15/2019 at 8:55 am by
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Scrubbing is OK with higher grits, but in my opinion, you should take care to not hit the apex with very low grits and “up” strokes. They can create rather deep chips which can be very difficult to remove with higher grits. If you are scrubbing with 80 grit, for instance, switch to a higher grit (maybe 200?) and edge-leading strokes when you see that you’re getting close to the apex. Again, IMO. When you get to 400 or 600 grit and higher, scrubbing is OK, especially if your stones are very well “broken-in.”
The danger is that you may create a defect (chip?) in the edge that is too deep to be removed with a reasonable amount of effort with the next higher grit, and using the current grit is likely to cause even more damage.
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Scrubbing is OK with higher grits, but in my opinion, you should take care to not hit the apex with very low grits and “up” strokes. They can create rather deep chips which can be very difficult to remove with higher grits. If you are scrubbing with 80 grit, for instance, switch to a higher grit (maybe 200?) and edge-leading strokes when you see that you’re getting close to the apex. Again, IMO. When you get to 400 or 600 grit and higher, scrubbing is OK, especially if your stones are very well “broken-in.” The danger is that you may create a defect (chip?) in the edge that is too deep to be removed with a reasonable amount of effort with the next higher grit, and using the current grit is likely to cause even more damage.
Do you think this is also dependent on the steel? I would imagine that it would be easier to cause these types of micro chips on the edge trailing strokes if you were sharpening a high hardness steel whereas a softer steel might be more forgiving.
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Scrubbing is OK with higher grits, but in my opinion, you should take care to not hit the apex with very low grits and “up” strokes. They can create rather deep chips which can be very difficult to remove with higher grits. If you are scrubbing with 80 grit, for instance, switch to a higher grit (maybe 200?) and edge-leading strokes when you see that you’re getting close to the apex. Again, IMO. When you get to 400 or 600 grit and higher, scrubbing is OK, especially if your stones are very well “broken-in.” The danger is that you may create a defect (chip?) in the edge that is too deep to be removed with a reasonable amount of effort with the next higher grit, and using the current grit is likely to cause even more damage.
In the same scope of discussion as “Organic ” presents I also think besides steel dependence we also have the sharpening medium to consider. For those harder more chip prone steels I find the whetstone sharpening mediums more effective to sharpen these steels. I utilize the scrubbing strokes, just the same with the whetstones, with much less chance of the possible adverse results seen with the very course diamond stones “tcmeyer” is referring to.
Marc
(MarcH's Rack-Its)1 user thanked author for this post.
Brewbear: Downward strokes are edge-leading. Edge-leading or edge-trailing are terms describing the blade relative to the stone. Because the WE system moves the stone, relative to the blade, we tend to get it backwards.
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I will say that over this past weekend when I employed the Gen 3 pro and LAA, I used, as recommended for ensuring no burr, edge leading (stone moving down upon contact with blade) strokes and got lighter and lighter as the scratches were removed during grit progression. I used a very bright shop light and 30X loop and saw apexing without any shine whatsoever and the cutting of newspaper for sharpness and feel was smooth and didn’t catch, which often happens when you still have a burr, or your apex is splotchy. The apex should be cleaner and smoother as grits progress. I love the system.
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