Cleaning stones a little more detail
- This topic has 9 replies, 9 voices, and was last updated 09/24/2019 at 11:35 am by
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Some guys have reported getting some rust stains around the edges from using water-based cleaning agents, so I use alcohol only. I spritz a little on the abrasive surface (diamond stones or film), then rub it a little with one finger tip before wiping it off with a rag or paper towel. Only a few seconds.
I haven’t tried Windex or Barkeepers Friend, so can’t really comment on their use, but I wouldn’t think you’d need to soak the stones in them.
Barkeepers Friend or Comet are light abrasives. I used it to clean my ceramic stones until I tried the Superaser and switched. With Comet, I’d shake a bit into the palm of my hand, then add a little water to make a slurry, which I’d smear onto the ceramic stone. Then I’d use a toothbrush or similar brush to scrub the surface for a half minute or so, after which I’d rinse the mess off and dry with a paper towel. Worked pretty well, but the Superaser was just less mess and fuss.
I’ve found that chemicals stronger than alcohol can attack the plastic in the handles. Lacquer thinner, Brake-Kleen and acetone were too strong for the ABS I bought from McMaster-Carr. Not sure about the WE handles.
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I agree the supereraser works great, and I’ve used it many times to clean the stones. Also, I like using just a regular toothbrush with liquid Barkeeper’s Friend, just a drop or two on a wet stone, then brush right away. Liquid soap works good, too. Even just plain old water and a brush have worked well for me. I don’t soak the stones. I’ve hear some folks say the dishwasher does a good job, too.
Alan
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Indeed the super eraser. If you use Bar Keepers Friend, use a few drops and a toothbursh and spend a few mins per side to clean it.
Molecule Polishing: my blog about sharpening with the Wicked Edge
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The quickest, most effective (and probably most expensive) way I’ve found is using electrical contact cleaner. (Essentially isopropyl alcohol in a can).
I just hold the paddle over a bin and give it a full angled blast in one slow, smooth stroke moving down the paddle. Keep the nozzle real close (about an inch away) for maximum pressure but with enough width to only need one pass. Each paddle literally takes seconds to clean, all the crud ends up straight in the bin and the stone is dry by the time you’ve done the next one.
If you’re really keen, follow up with a quick, light pass of electrical contact lube or Inox, CRC etc to stop any rust, displace moisture and reduce swarf load up on the next sharpening.
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I have been using a spray bottle of denatured alcohol and compressed air.. seems to work well
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I thought the idea behind using a soapy solution on the stones was to keep the steel dust under control. Breathing in fine particulates on a regular basis can carry serious health risks.
I have tried it a time or two and it does keep the dust from becoming airborne.
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