Benchmade 580 Barrage challenge
- This topic has 11 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 10/25/2018 at 6:32 am by
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This would be a case where I would reach for my Tormek small knife adapter. As a alternative you might have better luck clamping the blade if you apply a few layers of that aluminium foil tape used in duct work.
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Before giving up and going to the Tormek, I’d try removing the thumb stud and clamp it on the flat that is now exposed. To find a “version” of the sweet spot, try angling the blade upward or downward. Theoretically, the straight section should produce equal angles for its entire length. The challenge is to match the angle at the tip using the Sharpie.
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William,
I have used electrical shrink tubing on some knives that have slipped with chamois. Also double sided tape layered might work for good adhesion also.
Sometimes i have to mount a knife above the top holes, but still enough in the clamp to hold the knife. With the AAG its easy to record the position. Hope you find something that works.
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All the above are good suggestions worth trying. I think the point Pinkfloyd made is very important. The depth pin and those positions are handy most of the time. They do not need to be used, though. When positioning the knife doesn’t allow for contact with the pins, so be it. You can still use the depth key to hold the Advanced Alignment Guide to record a successful sharpening position before you unclamp the finished knife. In the mean time free form position it. Move the knife any way you need to, to get secure clamping purchase on the blade.
Between the flat area close to the hinge point with the thumb stud removed, as Tom suggested, and with layered aluminum tape forward of there I think you’ll get something going.
For these challenging situations, I suggest you first work with a very obtuse angle 22º to 25º and with fine grit stones. Just enough to see how the stone is meeting the edge and removing the marker. That way you won’t remove steel from anywhere you really wouldn’t want to. Then as you should continue to actually scratch metal to see how well your matching the profile. You’ll be more obtuse then the angle you’re going to sharpen it at. When you finally get the position determine and choose your working angle, it’ll be more acute then what you’ve done so far, so it’ll remove all the test scratches.
Marc
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William, I want to add something. With the tension adjustment and the split jaws of the WE130, you have some variability when clamping uneven thicknesses. If you tighten up the tension accordingly the jaws will grip and flex to conform to the uneven surface. So if you build up the blade with aluminum foil type duct tape, multiple layers it will compress under the clamping pressure and the jaws will flex to conform to the built up thickness of the blade. The uneven thickness knife will still stay even and centered as the jaws flex around it. That’s the beauty and efficiency of the split jaws in conjunction with the tension adjustment. It allows for a lot of leeway.
Marc
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The Tormek will get the job done, but you’ll have to sacrifice the repeatability to some extent. The other remaining option is to remove the blade and clamp on the pivot flat like Tom suggested. You will be able to consistently clamp the blade that way, but you’ll have to disassemble the knife every time.
Quick update. I finally got it! The secret formula was duct tape and the tension at the half way position. As I said, it was stubborn but so am I. 🙂 In any event, I put a nice, shiny edge on the Barrage and I think it’s sharper than from the factory.
William
I use a paper towel wrapped around the spine for some traction and to protect the blade. Then what I would try on this particular one is to use paper towel, then get the rear nub of the jaw on the blade flat (near the stud) and the other forward nub wont’ matter, just make sure it’s firmly on the transition point. Then tilt your handle up in the air w/ the point down towards the base as much as you can w/ out allowing your stone to hit the vise at the desired angle. This should be you there. If you need more clearance or lower angles, use the tormek jig as suggested.
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I use a paper towel wrapped around the spine for some traction and to protect the blade. Then what I would try on this particular one is to use paper towel, then get the rear nub of the jaw on the blade flat (near the stud) and the other forward nub wont’ matter, just make sure it’s firmly on the transition point. Then tilt your handle up in the air w/ the point down towards the base as much as you can w/ out allowing your stone to hit the vise at the desired angle. This should be you there. If you need more clearance or lower angles, use the tormek jig as suggested.
Great suggestions Josh!! Thanks! I will definitely try the paper towel trick. The duct tape and tension, while it worked, I could probably slip a piece of paper in between the knife and the jaws. It was very close!
William
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