Wicked Edge Sharp Knives
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02/27/2019 at 9:48 am #49572
Tom, Thanks for the thoughtful reply and sharing your experience and suggestions!
03/19/2017 at 1:15 pm #37847As you know, the Ken Onion edition of the Worksharp is a belt sander. When I do use the Ken Onion, I use it with the Ken Onion Belt attachment. The niche where it fits is for sharpening things like hatchets, axes and survival type knives where quite a bit of metal needs to be removed. In other words, I like the Ken Onion belt attachment when I want to quickly put a slight beveled grind on the blade. The slight bevel is just an outcome of the deflection of the belt against the knife….. sort of like a leather strop. I know a beveled edge can be done with the WEP as I have done it a few times. However, the belt sharpener is much quicker. With the Ken Onion belt attachment – while there is an alignment reference guide – you are sharpening free hand. So, less precision and it is easy to remove lots of metal quickly. I found that with both the basic Worksharp and the Ken Onion edition, when inserting the knife into the angle guides, they kind of have a sweet spot for the size of the knife they will work on – not too thick, not to small, etc. The Tormec does not put a beveled grind on the blade. Some my argue it puts a hollow grind on the blade because of the round wheel. However, for all practical purposes, where the blade meets the stone, it is a flat grind. I do not care for the Tormec axe/hatchet holder. So, that is my two cents. The WEP sees about 90% of my sharpened tools. I especially like the ability to put on a primary and secondary bevel and that kind of precision can only be done in a repeatable way on the WEP. Now, I am experimenting with using the Tormec for the primary bevel and the WEP for the secondary bevel when I encounter a knife needing a resharpen for the first time. Also, I plan on experimenting with the Tormec on some of my good knives once the secondary bevel eventually wears done from resharpening to the point that the secondary bevel performed on the WEP is gone.
03/18/2017 at 11:06 pm #37842Hi Mark76, I have many sharpening devices. I own a Tormec T8. The Tormec is favored by me when: I am sharpening large knives that are made of poorly heat treated steel that are very hard, small knives with poor steel that take a long time to sharpen that don’t take an edge very well, and knives that are abused by family members and need frequent attention. The Tormec will also sharpen scissors, hedge trimmers, etc. The Tormec is not precise enough to apply primary and secondary bevels. The Tormec will put a good workman like edge on a knife very quickly. However, the Wicked Edge is capable of precision ultra sharp repeatable results like no other.
02/13/2017 at 4:41 pm #37320Hi Final Edge. What is a 2×72? Also, what are your favorite uses for the Tormec T8?
02/12/2017 at 7:31 pm #37278I have too many. I have gone down the river you speak of. I have stones, lansky, apex, tormec, electric sharpeners, Ken Onion belt sharper and the WEP. I was never great at getting consistent results on the stones. Lansky was a step forward and Apex was a big step beyond the basic Lanskey. Electric slot sharpeners were pretty disappointing. The Apex was quite good but the WEP was and still is the best high end option. I like the belt sharpener for axes and hatchets. The Tormec T8 is great for many things, even knives. The Tormec works great on knives that are made of steels that are hard to sharpen that would otherwise be throw-away. However, the WEP on knives, offers precision, repeatability and the ability to do things like precision micro-bevels. For knives, the WEP has no peer if one wants something beyond a workmans’s edge.
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02/12/2017 at 11:05 am #37273I made a similar post a few months ago. I was never able to get an acceptable micro-bevel using 200 grit. I had great success when I switched to 600 grit on my knives with harder steel and 800 grit on my knives with softer steel. I am using about ten alternating strokes per side (20 total). My strokes for the micro bevel are downward (from heel to tip). I then back off two degrees from the microbevel angle and strop lightly with the same number of strokes (upward from heel to tip). This has been so successful for me that every knife I sharpen gets the microbevel treatment. Touch up is a breeze. I look at my records to see how the knife was previously mounted. Then I use the same grit I used to create the microbevel. However, for touch ups, I start with about five strokes per side (upward from heel to tip to straighten the edge) and then do about five strokes per side downward from heel to tip. Then, I use the stropping process. I have touched up the microbevel on my EDC knife about eight times and still have only eaten into about 40% of the primary bevel. I have used micro bevels fro 3 to 5 degrees greater than the primary bevel with success. I like big differentials between primary and secondary bevel when the cutting tool will be used roughly – like a cleaver or survival knife. I hope this advice is of some value to you
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11/26/2016 at 2:32 pm #36027Thanks! You always seem to have great posts…. I usually learn something new. I also appreciate the links you embed. You and others make this forum worth reading and posting.
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11/26/2016 at 4:49 am #36020M1rrorEdge, Nicely done! Dang, a chiseled edge with a tanto profile with serrations. I have never sharpened a knife with all of those characteristics combined on the same knife. Plus, you put the mirror edge on it with lapping films. You are obviously more than up to the challenge. Did you stay with one bevel angle or does it also have a micro bevel?
10/15/2016 at 12:59 pm #35408Yup, I think I need a much lighter touch on the toothy secondary bevel and then also on the strop.
10/10/2016 at 10:20 pm #35358Update. After I used the Santuko with a hybrid edge that I first thought was a fail, now I am a cautious fan. After steeling the hybrid edge Santuko, it somehow magically turned into a good paper cutter, marginal hair shaver and was solid on all the tasks I used it on. This makes me think that I was too heavy handed and should have used a lighter touch on the much toothier secondary bevel. Does this sound like a reasonable conclusion?
10/10/2016 at 9:20 pm #35357I too missed that it has a backing to peel. Thanks for the post!
10/08/2016 at 6:36 pm #35323I must really want to send you a reply because the first attempt went off into cyberspace when I tried to end it with a happy face icon. I am typing this one in MS Word and will do a copy and paste. Also, I am typing this one handed as I have bandages on three fingers on my left hand. I need to remember to shut down my WEP efforts before the beer counts get too high. Otherwise accidents can and do occur.
I too have wondered about the optimal edge for a given application. </span>
While I love the Wicked Edge system for knives, I still use a belt grinder for axes, hatchets, mower blades and some big outdoor knives where I want a beveled edge. I saved the packaging that came with my belt grinder because it has some recommended guidelines regarding recommended angle and grit for various applications. I will summarize them:
For kitchen knives, it recommends an angle of 20 degrees. For those knives used for cutting vegetables, it recommends a finishing grit of 22 microns=1ooo grit. For those 20 degree kitchen knives used mostly for cutting meat, it recommends a finishing grit of 22mu = 3000 grit.</span>
For outdoor and pocket knives, it recommends an angle of 25 degrees. For general purpose working knives, it recommends a finishing grit of 1000. For hunting knives, it recommends a finishing grit of 3000.
Lately, on my bigger knives, somewhat akin to some of the outdoor knives with the back of the blade being serrated, I have put a toothy edge on the back 1/3 of the knife and a polished fine grit on the front 2/3 of the knife.
Another option is to use more than one knife/cutting tool. For instance, when cleaning/skinning/preparing pheasants, one could use a heavy beefy knife with ~ 25 degree angle finished at ~ 400 grit for going through joints and neck and a smaller knife with ~20 angle finished to 1000+ grit for the rest of the cutting tasks…. Or you could substitute a meat cleaver for the bigger knife. That way, your implements could go much longer between sharpening’s.
10/02/2016 at 8:10 pm #35234Hi RazorEdgeKnives. I just want to send you a quick thank you. It has probably been nearly two years since you gave me some feedback. You helped me move to the next level in sharpening. I am now pretty darn good. Still, lots to learn but I credit you for letting me know I could do better. You kind of enlarged the envelope of what I could expect to be in terms of knife sharpening. I hope you are doing well and reaching even higher in your expertise of using the WEP system. THANKS for helping to turn me from a low level WEP pedestrian user to someone who is now a proven believer in the system. I now have a kitchen, drawer, pocket and many friends with some scary sharp knives.
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07/04/2014 at 5:21 am #19346Hi Geocyclist,
Are you a big-time bike rider? The peddle kind or the motor kind?
You gave me much good advice in just a few sentences. I already practice religiously some of your tips and some I can work on incorporating more regularly and maybe one thing that it is a total blind spot for me. What is the fine angle adjust you are referring to? I have the newer arms in my pro pack two. I only adjust the combination hand tighten/hex adjuster screw. Do I have a big hole in my game? I know I should reverse the slider bar because the detents are only half degree adjustments but am I missing an entire adjustment regularly performed by most?
Whittling hair might be a hundred or two hundred knife sharpens away from my current skill level…… But, it is good to have a new goal. If I were to try a facial shave at this point in my sharpening maturity on the WE, based on the bloody results, they would call me scar face. Children would run from me and the gory spectacle would even test a mother’s love.
Thanks again!
07/04/2014 at 4:37 am #19343Josh, Dude!,
I watched your Spiderco video twice and payed attention to your paddle movement. I also used your clamping/angled knife method.
Guess what? My Spiderco Paramilitary 2 cuts my arm, hair. I am missing hair! I am going to get the chills outside cause I’m missing hair. I have a two inch bald spot on my forearm. This has NEVER happened before – EVER! I don’t know if I can repeat it but I made it to the next level on this knife. It’s a paper cutting bad boy as well.
My takeaways are: the clamping has to be rock solid; you have to work it until each grit thoroughly does its job, every stroke needs to be good (so slow down), and be anal about the angle cube and remember to back off two degrees and light pressure with the strops.
Arm hair fears me – as it should be!
Thanks for egging me on about the arm hair. You are DaMan!
Allen
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