sksharp

Hey Adrian, You are welcome brother! If you have experience with other systems I think you will be blown away with your results in a very short time. Hope they get those stones to you soon!

Others have told me they aren’t worried about it with the ceramics, I just don’t want to screw them up at $120 a pop. The break in period on those is significant and I’ve said this a hundred times mine have gotten better and better. Have you tried lapping them together? 1.4 against 1.4 and .6 against .6? I rubbed them together vigorously, not…[Read more]

I like chamois or Moleskin for clamping the knife but it has nothing to do with preventing scratches like those. I never tape the blade, to messy and time consuming without any real advantage that I could come up with. I’ve used and use stops on the rods so the stone can’t drop below the level of the edge.

The chamois or Moleskin will solve the…[Read more]

You can polish any edge! Try it. Since I’ve never attempted your idea I can’t say what the results might be.

I’m not sure I’d be experimenting on others knives however!

Looks good to me. I have the PP3 as well (2016) and I love the case and the ability to take it anywhere. I personally don’t use liquid on ceramics, super eraser only, but have heard of others doing exactly what you did.

Edge on your knife looked pretty good as well!

Welcome Adrian. I think you made a good choice with your sharpener and I’m confident the WE will in fact me your “go to” sharpener after your first 10 or so knives. Please use knives without much value at the start, might save some tears! Ask questions of these folks, it will help!

No apology necessary my friend. I have no affinity for German steel in particular. I just run into a lot of opinion that tends to believe that harder is always better and that just isn’t true for most knives. It’s always a trade off with hard(edge retention) and tough(won’t chip or break).

I will say you are probably correct that an 18 deg.…[Read more]

Thanks TC, great explanation! This really brings “purpose sharpening” for knives into a clearer view. Not only from a sharpening aspect, but from the cutting side of it as well. It’s important to use knives that are sharpened for a “purpose” for that purpose. For those I sharpen for I do my best to explain what each knife was sharpened to be…[Read more]

Hard steel chips and soft steel rolls. I’ve had a lot better luck sharpening the softer steels at more acute angles than I’ve had with the harder steels. I have had knife edges fall apart on me and by widening the angle it took care of the problem. My experience has been that the harder steels retain there edge better as long as they are not…[Read more]

I’ve sharpened a couple sets of Wusthof and Henckel’s and sharpened them at the angle specified from the manufacturer. No complaints from the owners in fact they said the knives were not nearly that sharp when they were new, which is my standard, better than new. There is more to steel than just the rockwell hardness as well so don’t poo poo a…[Read more]

That’s a good point TC! Some knives that have a drop and have thick tips can be a challenge to get as even as possible. On some of these moving the tip close to the clamp and maybe a little down will actually sharpen the tip at a more obtuse angle but give you an even bevel.

Sorry for the late response.

You said “large Wusthof” I take it that it’s a chefs knife and if so the angle you sharpened at would be 16 or 17 deg. approx. if the bar was set at 19 deg.

I’m going to use a mask from now on as well MarcH with the diamond stones. The dust can stay in the air for hours depending on the ventilation. If you are doing a lot of sharpening around an air conditioner or any device that filters, change and/or check the filters regularly.

Clay I have never heard anyone say that stropping was anything but destructive to an edge when used at an angle above the sharpened angle but I have to say that after thinking about it there is a certain logic to it.

I’ve shared this before but my starting angles are, 2 deg. less for balsa, 1.5 deg. less for leather  and 1 deg. less for…[Read more]

Hello Dwayne. Might I suggest you invest in a set of strops next. I think the difference in your edge will blow you away and it’s not hard to carry in the standard bag.

I think if you slide the blade back, tip toward the clamp, about 1 inch or so your bevel will even out. The further from the vise the tip is the wider the bevel will be relative to the drop in the edge toward the tip.  If you have trouble clamping in the proper position then moving the tip down is your best option I think. I to have to manipulate…[Read more]

Welcome Mark. Did you order the GO as is or did you add anything to yours yet?

Welcome Expidia, you’ll love the PP3. I’ve been using mine for almost a year now, 2016 version however. I don’t use the magnets anymore either as they didn’t seem to accomplish much except increase my clean up time. Just clean up the station and machine every 10 to 20 sharpening’s or so now.

I’ve found a very similar results when dropping 1.5 to 2 deg. with cow hide and no micro bevel.

With multiple strops, while trying for the “show knife” finish, I’ve used a micro bevel before stropping and then back off 2 deg. from the first bevel.

Example: sharpen at 17 deg. micro at 20 deg. then strop at 15 deg.

This allows me to strop a long…[Read more]

Nice knife Tom, go ahead and be proud of it I know I would be.