Rich
Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorPosts
-
09/21/2017 at 10:29 am #41179
MarcH, I agree that this is not a deal breaker issue. I only became aware of it due to the fact that my jaws were sticking closed which required disassembly. This was one of the issues I found upon taking everything apart…
1 user thanked author for this post.
09/17/2017 at 7:56 pm #41119I wanted to follow up on my progress with this knife. I received diamond lapping films from Nanolap, 6/3/1/0.5/0.1 micron. These did the trick! Much sharper thank before!! I did have the same issues with the 0.5/0.1 micron films with larger scratches showing up. I will proceed with the DLF to 1 micron, stop there and move to strops!
I really enjoy the chosera stones and will continue to use them where applicable.
Thanks for all of the input!
08/22/2017 at 5:42 pm #40792Yes I did. All of the other knives I have sharpened turned out great!
I had a conversation with Ken Schwartz today. His opinion is that the vanadium content being so high, the chosera stones are not able to erode these steel nuggets. His recommendation was two fold,
- Add a small amount of cbn (WATER BASED ONLY) of the same micron size to the chosera stone surface. This will help to produce more slurry by eroding the chosera more rapidly while adding diamond particles to the slurry taking care of the vanadium in the steel.
- Nubatama Platinum stones. It was explained that these stones will take care of these harder steels where the chosera fall short. I’m considering 1500/3000 to start, then strop from there with cbn/poly diamond emulsion.
Also, I have DLF on their way. I know these will take care of the issue but it’s good to have options…
08/22/2017 at 12:25 pm #40788Yes I have. Many various kitchen knives, ZT folders, Kershaw folders and spyderco folders. No others using S110V though.
08/22/2017 at 12:22 pm #40787I’m going to try to find a larger diameter rod and see how that works. Seems much easier than measing with paddle mods. Again, this may be an effort in futility.
08/22/2017 at 7:18 am #40782In your opinion, is it worth the effort to add bushings with the new rods? I have to assume that your paddles with the bushings for the old rods do not work on the new rods given the new rods have a larger OD. I checked with calipers, paddle ID – 0.264-0.267, new rod OD 0.254. I do have access to machine shop equipment.
08/21/2017 at 5:43 pm #40778I do have the new rods and they are definitely better. I was just thinking if I can tighten up the tolerances more. Again, it may be overkill.
08/20/2017 at 2:36 pm #40760The photos are taken apex down. Marc, I will try your suggestion of repeating the chosera 5/10k. I believe the edge felt very sharp when finishing with them. I will experiment with strops at 15 deg and 17 deg. The strops I am using are cow leather (not WEPS as I just replaced them with leather form Oldawan) Yes, ASSUME (ASS out of U and ME). Thank you for the kind words, I am really paying attention to the details!!
Readheads, your suggestion is were I was headed. I am skeptical of the chosera stones use on S110V. I have ordered diamond lapping films and will try when they arrive (after trying Marc’s suggestions above). Talk to me about diamond emulsions on cardboard. This is just another form of stropping? Why cardboard and not a traditional strop media?
This leads me to another question. When talking sprays & emulsions, what are the differences between CBN spray/emulsion, poly diamond emulsion, boron carbide emulsion, etc. Is one better than another or just different? Reasons for using one over another?
Lastly, has anyone used chosera stones with S110V, CPM S90V, ZDP-189, ? If so, what was your experience? I really enjoy the feel these stones provide during the sharpening process. I am trying to understand if there are applications where they should not be used.
08/20/2017 at 12:37 pm #40755Finally was able to revisit the Spyderco Manix 2 S110V blade. After receiving the 800/1000 chosera stones, I tried to back up and see what they would do ( I finished with the 10K chosera last go round) while keeping the same 18 deg angle. I was not successful.
From there, I went back to the 1500 diamond confirming the scratches were consistent from shoulder to apex and verifying a burr before moving on.
From here, my progression was 800/1000/2000/3000/5000/10,000 chosera. Scrubbing first then edge leading, per forum recommendation, with very light pressure until each grit had scratch uniformity. Finally, light stropping at 16 deg with both 1 micron and 0.5 micron leather strops.
Again, this blade is sharp but not where near where I would expect it to be. I do not believe it is my technique as I followed this with a Shun VG10 blade using both diamond and chosera to 10k and it is screaming sharp! I know the S110V steel is supposed to be difficult to sharpen but I am at a loss… I have ordered a set of DLF from 6 to 0.1 micron and will try them when they arrive. I can’t imagine that the DLF will solve my issue but don’t know what else to try.
Attachments:
You must be logged in to access attached files.
08/17/2017 at 7:51 am #40677Thank you all for your input. My next step will be to use the chosera 800, edge trailing, and see if I can get the apex “clean”. Then using the same edge trailing technique, attempt to progress up to 10k.
If this fails, I will go to the 1500 diamond and see if I can get a clean apex.
If failure again, I will assume that the edge of the steel has been damaged due to sharpening at the factory, heat, and start clean, re-profile @ 100 grit getting to what I assume will be good, virgin metal, and proceed again.
I have not yet invested in the DLF media but the day may be getting closer…
08/16/2017 at 8:40 pm #40655That was very interesting, thanks Organic. So I will conclude that the harder steels, S110V, M390, ZDP189, etc., do not take a highly refined (high grit/polish) edge as well as more ductile steels at the apex. The molecular makeup, being extremely hard and more brittle, has the tendency to chip or “rubblize” as I described it?
That be the case, what grit/angle are these steels being sharpened to with success? Should I stop at the diamond and skip the choseras when dealing with these materials?
07/28/2017 at 8:30 pm #40382After reading this post, I decided to pull out my much neglected/ignored ceramics. I have both micro and super fine sets. I decided a while ago to not even try to use them given the results I was getting.
Today, I took them out and spend 30-40 minutes per grit lapping them together while watching TV, added water and cleaning them regularly during the process. I did notice that the dust did start heavy and end very light. I also noticed that the shine which the stone surface had when I started is now gone. All 4 grits are now dull in appearance.
I took a test knife and used this progression, Diamond 400/600/800/1000/1500; Ceramic 1200/1600/1.4/0.6. I was not trying to get a perfect mirror and did not pay attention to completely working out the prior scratch pattern with the next grit.
Let me first say that the feel of these stones completely changed, for the better. They went from smooth but able to feel and hear the grit to feeling completely smooth, hearing/feeling next to nothing, like glass on glass. The haze that the 1.4 produced before lapping is gone. Had I spent the time to examine and completely remove prior scratches, this would have been as good if not my best work yet! The edge is hair splitting! (I tested it)
I now need to figure where they really fit into my progression. I am very encouraged!!
07/24/2017 at 9:45 pm #40325cbwx34, your demonstration is exactly what I was envisioning to prove this concept. Your perspective of view (photo) shows that the angle relative to the blade does not change. YES, the angle in the plane of the arm relative to to the work surface does change and I believe this is where he is confused.
snecx, your glass example is again an excellent demonstration of this angle remaining unchanged. How can either of these be confusing or discredited?? Well done guys!
1 user thanked author for this post.
07/22/2017 at 5:14 pm #40303I just sharpened a ZT450 through the 10,000 chosera stones. Upon completion, I disassembled the vice and found no water or slurry on the cam, or inside the vice for that matter. I did not do anything different intentionally from the last time I used the choseras. Unsure how I ended up with rust on the cam before.
That said, I did warm the cam up and apply Frog Lube and let it cool. Hopefully that prevents rust from showing its head again. I will also disassemble the vice following use of water stones every time.
1 user thanked author for this post.
07/21/2017 at 10:54 am #40259Why are the 1500 diamond stones left off??
-
AuthorPosts