Ken Schwartz

[Ken Schwartz]

Since you have it worst case backwards, I’d suggest peeling the leather off on both and regluing them (harder) or relabeling the paddles (easier). It’s hard to uncontaminate a strop perfectly.

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

Yes it is worth emphasizing that all diamond lapping plates go through a break in period. Initially, the finish is coarser and more irregular and more aggressive. After breaking, it is more consistent but looses that initial aggression. Why waste it? Use that initial breaking for flattening some coarse stones or roughing in a big bevel. Be aware of some loose diamond stones from a plate causing errant scratches or getting mixed into the mud on a stone.

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

Clay, I have the glass platens for the Wicked Edge – and diamond films too. Please send me a PM about them.

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

I haven’t used the 50 and 80 grit diamond plates, so I couldn’t comment on them directly.

I do make the Atoma diamond plates for the Wicked Edge in 140 400 600 and 1200 grit.

The Cutco steel isn’t a particularly hard steel – just the opposite. And you aren’t drastically changing the angle or reprofiling the knife to an extreme angle (which I wouldn’t recommend doing on a Cutco in any case).

The 140 Atoma will make short work reprofiling a Cutco – or any of the much more highly abrasion resistant steels as well.

It is one of the most popular products I make (also for the EdgePro) specifically for this purpose of creating an initial reprofiled angle. I usually recommend following this with a finer diamond plate for more abrasion resistant steels or going to a stone like a 150 Nubatama waterstone or 220 grit Shapton Pro stone. The stones ‘convert’ from a diamond scratch pattern to a ‘softer’ waterstone pattern.

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

Sven,

I’m sending you a PM I have all the Shapton grits in stock for the Wicked Edge. 120 220 320 1k 1.5k 2k 5k 8k 15k 30k. Thanks guys for mentioning me. Sometimes I feel like I’m a well kept secret. I do need to post here more as I have more additional products and compounds available too. Clay is testing one out now that I know he will like 🙂

I also have natural stones and may soon be putting some Nubatama stones cut for the Wicked Edge too. I also have the paddles so I can sell you whatever combination you want as well. This would even include Kangaroo or nanocloth on one side and a fine grit 15k or 30k Shapton on the other for instance. And for those not familiar with my products, I also have an extensive line of compounds in CBN diamond and Alumina as well as diamond films and glass blanks for the Wicked Edge.

Just send me a PM or email to ksskss at earthlink dot net.

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

“KenSchwartz wrote:
I have a perfect solution. Sending you a PM.

—
Ken

Can’t share it Ken? ”

PM sent 🙂

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

Ken,

I already have glass plates for the WE. Just send me a PM regarding this.

Regarding CBN plates, The issue is when running wheels at high temperature vs diamond is that you get a reaction with diamond (which is a form of carbon) in that it can change the carbon concentration of the steel. For hand applications, this particular virtue of CBN as an advantage over diamond is not really an issue. For these applications you typically use monocrystalline diamond, simply because it doesn’t break down showing fresh sharp edges like poly, but maintains it’s shape so it is less likely to drop out of it’s metal bond (nickel) matrix.

If any of you have a specific interest for CBN either in film form or plate form, please let me know as I do have a supplier for these. In general, I have a LOT more products than are displayed on the net and do custom applications for customers all the time. This includes a vast array of synthetic and natural stones, stops, etc.

Also note that CBN is more expensive than monocrystalline diamond and Poly is the most expensive of the three.

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

I have a perfect solution. Sending you a PM.

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

Ken, I’ll probably order some… if its fine w/ clay can you post your prices? or would you rather a phone call…

…

Just send me a PM for details. Regards, Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

Well, Dan did make the point that grinding on one side more that the other can make for a larger bevel even with both sides at the same angle. So you can match bevel widths by grinding for a longer time on the side that is shortest.

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

I now have glass blanks that I use for diamond films for the WE. Anyone interested, please contact me.

I do agree that the glass is flatter and more precise than the aluminum surfaces.

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

Hi Ken, you already told me about poly diamond sprays versus mono diamond sprays: poly has more cutting surfaces which results in a faster cutting rate. Can you tell me how CBN fits in there?

I tend to use CBN most often of the three. The finest I can get CBN is tenth Micron, so past there I use Poly. I do carry poly in tenth and finer (0.050 and 0.025) but also coarser grits up to 4 microns. For straight razor usage, CBN tends to feel smoother, yet when going past quarter microns, especially 0.1 and beyond poly is quite comfortable too. Some of my customers prefer poly over CBN and will pay the additional cost of Poly – easily the most expensive of the 4 choices.

I find that there really isn’t any steel I’ve come across that CBN won’t cut. There is the theoretical consideration that CBN doesn’t interfere with the carbon content of steel that diamond does, but this really only applies at higher temperature. CBN is second only to diamond in hardness. Although more expensive than mono diamond, I find it very effective for all knife steels, with the poly giving a bit more of a toothy edge.

So the combination of affordability and good results over a wide range of grits make CBN my first choice. I do carry monocrystalline diamond in 0.025, 0.050 0.1 for those that prefer mono, but don’t carry coarser mono since good quality mono is already available in these sizes.

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

Here’s a second video he did demonstrating a new technique using a lght moistening spray. Not sure if this helps or not, but it certainly looks promising. I’m impressed with how it also gets out some of those residual deep scratches in addition to refining the finish.

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

Thank you, Mark!

I thought you might really appreciate what a natural stone finish is about and this video (the first one especially) was really inspired by your questions about natural stone finishes earlier.

There’s no reason not to think natural stones on the Wicked edge wouldn’t be a good thing. In fact I have already cut and mounted several types of them already 🙂 I certainly wouldn’t rule out using them on a Murray Carter knife 🙂

—
Ken

[Ken Schwartz]

Clay you might also enjoy putting a TINY amount of that 15 micron CBN on a 1k waterstone of your choice 🙂 Think of it in terms of adding a little nitroglycerin to your carburetors for it’s effect. Here you are using the stone as partially a substrate and partially adding to the rate of slurry formation and partially to abrade the abrasion resistant steel faster. Also LISTEN to the change in sound.

—
Ken

[Author]

Posts