Eric F

[Eric F]

Thanks for the information.  I got these knives a long time ago, and actually decided I would NEVER buy another knife with a bolster again because of it.

I think I’ll grind it down with the belt.

-Eric

[Eric F]

Marc H wrote:

I got this email notification of a new post I subscribe to, but the post never got posted? I’ve forwarded this issue to ChrisB

Here’s a copy of the email:

Eric F wrote:

@marcH I know I asked this in a PM, but maybe you could just answer here as it could be useful to others and its related. I was playing around with all of this on a REALLY damaged knife and decided to try out the 50/80 stones. I know in the past I had heard that you shouldn’t use edge leading strokes since it can break out diamonds from the substrate. I know that you and the instructional videos show all sorts of strokes. Does edge leading risk damaging the stones? I noticed that after I used the 50 grit side for a bit that the overall tactile feel it had was different now that it had some use (i used edge leading). It used to feel horrible to the touch, now it feels more like the un touched 80s. Is that normal? Are the stones ok?

Post Link: https://knife.wickededgeusa.com/forums/topic/chips-in-edge-after-sharpening/#post-42477

Eric in my experience, there’s almost nothing you can do to damage the diamond stones. The stroke direction, that is, edge leading will not hurt the diamonds. As you start to use any of the new diamond stones they have some loosely adhered diamonds and some random jagged diamonds that sit higher then the rest. These will get knocked off soon after you start to use the stone making the rest of the surface more uniform and equal in it’s abrasive characteristic. All the diamonds stone grits will loose that first, initial coarseness, as they break in. It changes almost drastically right at the start then, less dramatically as they wear in. Don’t let this initial big change in the feel scare you, that you’re being too rough on the diamond stones, and causing damage to them. There will always remain a distinct difference in feel from the coarsest stone, 50 grit, as you progress through the grits to the finest grit, the 1500. There will be no confusion between the grits, even after they’re all well broken in. At least this is my observation and experience you can always discern a more coarse grit stone from a less coarse grit stone by feel, and the appearance of the scratch pattern.

With a USB Microscope the scratch patterns are easily discernable between grits. You may not be able to identify which grit diamond stone was used, by the look of the scratch pattern, but you can identify which scratch pattern was made by a coarser grit stone and which was made by a finer grit stone.

Eric did you publicly post, that is submit this, to be posted on the Forum? Or was just still a draft? The answer to this question may help identify an issue with the Forum Software.

It was a draft…   Then the kids went crazy and it wound up getting submitted, so I just blanked it out since I couldn’t deal with it at the moment.  Nothing wrong with the forum… just toddlers running mad.  And its fine to post it.  Between this forum and the PMs I am actually getting the hang of this thing.

 

Thanks!

[Eric F]

Thanks for the help all.

1 user thanked author for this post.

Mark76

[Eric F]

That sounds reasonable.  Thanks.

 

1 user thanked author for this post.

Mark76

[Eric F]

@Mark76 – I am pretty sure it wasn’t there at the beginning…. I think…. :-/….    Next on my list is one of those USB microscopes.

@MarkH – I said magnetic because the filings stick to things…. the edge included… looks like magnetic filings from high school physics/chemistry.  I should actually just step it up to 20 degrees… this user isn’t the most delicate anyways.   More details about my progression bellow.  This is my second knife, but the first one was a higher quality santoku (mine) and came out great.  Not mirrored, but I didn’t strop it at all.  I’ll have to try that file trick.  Sometimes people give me some knives that they… well… haven’t sharpened since they got them 30 years ago….

@tcmeyer – Awesome info.  Thanks.

 

When you guys “destress” or whatever.  You mean run the stone flat (perpendicular to the blade)… basically what I would do if I wanted to destroy the edge?… just to get the holes out of the edge?  I’m assuming I’d be looking for a shiny smooth line from tip to heel if I looked straight down onto the blade.

 

My progression…

100 or 200 to profile and form a burr on both sides, then alternating passes about 10.

200 (unless I started at 200) alternating passes – 20ish)

400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, Super Fine 1200, Super Fine 1600, Ultra Fine 1.4u, Ultra Fine 0.6u . … all about 20 per side alternating.

I wasn’t sure about the 1500 before the 1200 super fine….

Thats where I have been stopping for now as I’m not aiming for mirror.

 

After that I have 6u Diamond Film, and then strops with 4 and 2 Micron Paste.  I was thinking about doing the 4 and then 2 micron strops after the ultrafine… should I do the diamond film first?

I presume my order is correct, any issues with my process?  Any other stones/films/pastes I should add now?  I was going to try to break it all in before I added more…

Thoughts?

 

 

2 users thanked author for this post.

Marc H, Mark76

[Eric F]

Also interesting is I checked the blade after each stone on my last attempt.  I don’t really recall seeing the chips until I used the ceramics….

 

The whole WE is new, so everything is still being broken in.

[Eric F]

Sounds good thanks.  I’m not sure I am good enough yet to tell whether or not it matters… 🙂

1 user thanked author for this post.

Mark76

[Eric F]

Thanks!

[Eric F]

Ah…. that makes sense….  I didn’t even think about that.

Thanks!

1 user thanked author for this post.

Mark76

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