Richard Jackson
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07/02/2014 at 8:37 am #19319
Anyone have a video using these and does anyone have results showing repeatability with these?
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07/02/2014 at 8:34 am #19318Are these meant to replace stropping in the cases where you would want to use them?
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04/30/2014 at 2:18 am #18478I went 1200/1600 and then 2k/3k chosera and 5k/10k chosera 🙂
04/28/2014 at 5:49 pm #18459I did it to mine on my router table. I only did one side so I could have an adequate finger guard/rest on the opposing side. I try to only use the trimmed side when I have to so the stones wear evenly.
04/23/2014 at 1:35 pm #18388I’m not sure. They came with my paper stone base too.
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04/23/2014 at 5:00 am #18384Rubber faces the bottom of the base on the screws you us to mount the sharpener to the base.
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04/19/2014 at 6:32 am #18332Jake,
Any review or thoughts? I have some people that may be interested if I was to start sharpening chisels. Thanks!!Take care and God Bless!
Richard04/18/2014 at 5:56 am #18318If you take the moving jaw off and put the cube on the stationary jaw between the top vice screw hole and the bottom vice screw hole what do you read? Please take a picture of where you zero it and the reading on the stationary jaw.
04/16/2014 at 9:39 pm #18287What are you measuring angles with and where? Are you measuring on the inside of the low angle adapter vice? Just FYI, the main vice will have exactly the same issue you described in your first post(the cant) if you don’t use the leather, foam, or chamois with a FFG blade.
04/16/2014 at 8:06 am #18280We’ll I’m a newbie but I may have the answer. Most kitchen knives are full flat ground (FFG) which means the primary bevel is a constant angle that extends from the spine to the edge. So you basically have a very acute V shaped piece of metal between two jaws that are more or less parallel. This will allow the blade to cant to one side or the other unless you have absolutely mastered keeping it centered. Most people use a piece of leather or chamois or foam between the blade and the jaws on FFG blades to give it some more support below the spine to ward off the cant.
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04/02/2014 at 8:24 am #18055Big thanks you guys!!! I can only imagine it will get much better. I used Clay’s directions to a tee and they worked great even with my non broken in ceramics.
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04/02/2014 at 8:12 am #18054
Well I got one part of the edge to whittle. The rest wanted to split the hair slightly more than half way through and therefore cut the hair enough so that no curls would whittle off. I can still see many surface scratches on the edge. But my ceramics are absolutely brand new.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
04/01/2014 at 8:46 pm #18044That’s awesome! I’ll try that. The whittling hair is more of just a challenge than any kind of need haha.
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04/01/2014 at 3:31 pm #18037I have been doing an entire set of Wustoff classics for my sister and I think that I am starting to feel and hear what you guys are talking about. I’m just not confident enough to drop the counting yet, haha! I’m afraid I won’t get what I want out of the edge and have to resharpen(I really really like sharpening but don’t have much luxury of time to do testing now). So I’m trying to climb up to the shoulders of you sharpening giants that have been doing this for a long time and can do it by feel and sound alone etc. I really really appreciate it again!!
Take care and God Bless!
RichardSent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
03/29/2014 at 3:44 pm #18004This forum is so awesome because people really want to see others succeed and grow more proficient with the WEPS! Awesome stuff!!
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